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I am running 275s with 10" wide Weld rims, 18" diameter. There is about 1/2" clearance for the rear suspension bolt when the car is not moving (see pics). But the bolt is hitting the rim and shaving some metal off of it. Do the rims flex under hard turns? What are my options here. Cut the suspension bolt? Put on spacers?
If you have rubber bushings in the strut arms, they could be worn and allow movement beyond normal. Solid joints there could help. I installed the spring bolts with the head down to achieve the most clearance possible. Just my 2 cents.
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What is the backspacing of your rims? Any thickness of spacer will move the wheel out away from your contact problem but will correspondingly cause the wheel to stick out farther from the fender.
It is unlikely that your rims are the issue. Some steel rims can flex a small amount as can wire wheels, but good cast or forged rims will not move much before cracking.
It is much more likely that the movement that is allowing the spring to hit the rim is related to either the bushings in the attachment point of your rear control arm to the frame, or any excess play in your rear spindle bearings. Even new control arm bushings (original style rubber bushings) will allow some amount of movement. Worn bushings will definitely allow even more. Since the rim is bolted directly to the rear spindle, loose or worn spindle bearings will also allow lateral movement of the wheel/spindle assembly.
One other thing that will contribute to lateral movement of the entire control arm is if the inboard axles in you rear are worn on the ends where the snap rings clip on, that hold the axles from coming out of the rear.
It sounds like you need to inspect the overall integrity of your rear suspension. If it all looks and feels good, an option is to obtain a "shortened" rear spring. Some of the vendors of composite rear springs will make a spring an inch or more narrower, that will provide additional clearance yet still function normally.
Yup agreed, your car didn't get delivered from factory with these wheels or this spring!
Most who feel the need to run wider wheels use the shortened rear spring. I believe that this is the ultimate answer.
Thanks for the replies. All rear end suspension is new from Van Steel (Street Slalom). I did push the limit with 10" rims and a standard composite leaf spring, so my fault there. I like the idea of putting the bolts in upside down to get maximum clearance. I only need about 1/2", so that may do the trick.
The head of the bolt and the nut for the bolt are the same diameter and are not rubbing.
Its those big washers that are the interference issue rubbing the rim. Not the orientation of the bolt.
In either case, make sure the end of the bolts are predrilled for a cotter pin.
If you manage to get the car into an extreme hard bank and the bolt catches, say an under inflated bulging tire, no amount of steering input will save you from spinning out and hitting something. I don't think you have enough clearance.
I would think in this situation the corner of the Spring itself might be touching the Rim. Mine have. I cut the Corner of the Spring off at 45 degree angle to fix this.
I ran 18X10 with a 5.5 backspace. I did run a shorter spring at that time it was Vette Brakes but I know Van Steel makes shorter ones also. That spring looks close in there also.
If you have rubber bushings in the strut arms, they could be worn and allow movement beyond normal. Solid joints there could help. I installed the spring bolts with the head down to achieve the most clearance possible. Just my 2 cents.
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I am running 275s with 10" wide Weld rims, 18" diameter. There is about 1/2" clearance for the rear suspension bolt when the car is not moving (see pics). But the bolt is hitting the rim and shaving some metal off of it. Do the rims flex under hard turns? What are my options here. Cut the suspension bolt? Put on spacers?
Any help appreciated ...
just a note, but mine have cotter pins in the bolts.
This is most likely happening when you go over bumps or dips that unload the suspension. As the control arm goes lower in relation to the chassis, it gets closer to the ends of the spring.
The spring ends on my car aren't anywhere even close to the rim/tire at ride height, but the spring end will actually hit the tire when hanging down on a lift.
Bluesting70,
I was referring to the Spring Bolts should have a cotter pin on the end. You can't rely on those nyloc fasteners especially near exhaust heat.
If that nut ever comes off, you are in for the ride from hell.
Some spring bolt kits with the rubber cushions, washers, etc come with the long bolts predrilled for cotter pin. If not, easy enough to do on a drill-press.
Suspension Bolt Hitting Rim
