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Old Oct 16, 2022 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by bmotojoe
Reading your profile you have a big block 454.
I believe your clocking is correct for your application.
Your unloaded test results are low, should be around 14 vdc.
If the loaded test was done with both the HI Beam headlights and blower motor on HI that to looks low, should be in the mid 13vdc range
All I had on was the car running. Nothing else. I ran the rpm up to 2500 with the voltage box hooked up to battery.
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Old Oct 16, 2022 | 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by theandies
In my experience anything under 13.5 volts while charging, loaded or unloaded is insufficient. It looks like rebuild time.
I plan to buy a new one.
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Old Oct 16, 2022 | 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by bmotojoe
I don't know what was recorded in the test you had done?
Here are test results for my 80 amp alternator and good battery using a different tester.
The voltage test results are in my original picture. With the car turning 2500 rpm’s. Nothing else was on.
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Old Oct 16, 2022 | 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T3stinger
All I had on was the car running. Nothing else. I ran the rpm up to 2500 with the voltage box hooked up to battery.
Your alternator is bad. Should be around 14.0 - 14.6 even at idle, and stay there as you raise rpm.
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Old Oct 16, 2022 | 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by C3 Stroker
Your alternator is bad. Should be around 14.0 - 14.6 even at idle, and stay there as you raise rpm.
Would that cause my gauges to act strange?
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Old Oct 16, 2022 | 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T3stinger
Would that cause my gauges to act strange?
What do you mean by strange? Which gauges in particular, and what are they doing?
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Old Oct 16, 2022 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by C3 Stroker
What do you mean by strange? Which gauges in particular, and what are they doing?
Yesterday My console battery gauge went over to 40 plus side then bounced around. Today it stayed just below 0. Yesterday Water temp gauge went up to normal. Today it didn’t move for a while then rose to where it should.
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Old Oct 16, 2022 | 10:11 PM
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Amp gauge erratic shows alternator going bad. Other gauges erratic seems like loose grounds to either the gauge or the console.
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Old Oct 16, 2022 | 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by C3 Stroker
Amp gauge erratic shows alternator going bad. Other gauges erratic seems like loose grounds to either the gauge or the console.
Okay. I plan to buy a new alternator. I’m assuming I need no more than a 63 amp one. I believe that’s what the OEM is for a 73
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Old Oct 17, 2022 | 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T3stinger
Okay. I plan to buy a new alternator. I’m assuming I need no more than a 63 amp one. I believe that’s what the OEM is for a 73
Here are some 73 alternator numbers, there were 3 different alternators used depending on the cars options...
1100544 61 AMP All with C60 Air Conditioning
1100950 42 AMP L48 & L82 without C60 & LS4 without power steering.
1102353 42 AMP LS4 with power steering.
You stated you have a electric fan there are many variables there...
I suggest you purchase a new, not rebuilt alternator with a output at minimum 63 AMP and maximum 80 AMP "IF" your car still has the original engine and forward lamp harness wiring.
I can't see how the tester you used on your "IN CAR TEST" could determine what your loaded numbers are "without" actually loading the output?
How did it know if you had a 2 light system, 4 light system, LED lights, halogen lights etc???
I did see some videos on the tester you have, none of them showed the operator turning on lights, fan etc so it's not something you missed...
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Old Oct 17, 2022 | 07:24 AM
  #31  
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Electric fan?? Wouldn't consider less than 80 amp. Would seriously consider upgrading wiring if your running a electric fan.
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Old Oct 17, 2022 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by bmotojoe
Here are some 73 alternator numbers, there were 3 different alternators used depending on the cars options...
1100544 61 AMP All with C60 Air Conditioning
1100950 42 AMP L48 & L82 without C60 & LS4 without power steering.
1102353 42 AMP LS4 with power steering.
You stated you have a electric fan there are many variables there...
I suggest you purchase a new, not rebuilt alternator with a output at minimum 63 AMP and maximum 80 AMP "IF" your car still has the original engine and forward lamp harness wiring.
I can't see how the tester you used on your "IN CAR TEST" could determine what your loaded numbers are "without" actually loading the output?
How did it know if you had a 2 light system, 4 light system, LED lights, halogen lights etc???
I did see some videos on the tester you have, none of them showed the operator turning on lights, fan etc so it's not something you missed...
The car did come with AC but has since been removed because it wasnt working and I dont care about AC. I have a 454, power steering and one little electric fan that rarely comes on. I never turn on any inside controls. No heat either because I dont drive it when real cold and really that 454 puts out enough heat without a heater. I never run the windshield wipers because it doesnt see rain. I also do not play the radio. I listen to my car. And lastly, the lights work but I rarely drive it at night. As far as the test, those are good questions and dont have an answer.
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Old Oct 17, 2022 | 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by 4-vettes
Electric fan?? Wouldn't consider less than 80 amp. Would seriously consider upgrading wiring if your running a electric fan.
My little electric fan has been running off the current wiring with no issues. If I put an alternator with the same amp that's in there now, why would i need to update the wiring?
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Old Oct 17, 2022 | 11:39 AM
  #34  
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Can you post a photo of the "little electric fan"? Do you still have your belt-driven clutch fan?

I got stuck in stop and go traffic for an hour, and was very happy to have a well over-spec'ed alternator to power the dual Spal fans. Each one is close to 15 amps. This alternator replaced the stock unit that could no longer charge the battery when the headlights were on.
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Old Oct 17, 2022 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Bikespace
Can you post a photo of the "little electric fan"? Do you still have your belt-driven clutch fan?

I got stuck in stop and go traffic for an hour, and was very happy to have a well over-spec'ed alternator to power the dual Spal fans. Each one is close to 15 amps. This alternator replaced the stock unit that could no longer charge the battery when the headlights were on.
I will take a pic when I get home from work. May be around 5. The fan is about 12" wide and sits on inside of radiator.
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Old Oct 17, 2022 | 03:03 PM
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Electric fan ?.....I missed that part. Definitely upgrade your alternator. Over 63 amps. You don't have to go extreme, but consider a 100 amp one. Also, once you add an electric fan, your amp gauge will not register correctly. Consider a volt gauge instead if you want accurate information.
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Old Oct 17, 2022 | 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by C3 Stroker
Electric fan ?.....I missed that part. Definitely upgrade your alternator. Over 63 amps. You don't have to go extreme, but consider a 100 amp one. Also, once you add an electric fan, your amp gauge will not register correctly. Consider a volt gauge instead if you want accurate information.
The small fan was on there when I bought the car and has run fine with it for 3 years. It's also the alternator that was on the car. I've had no issues with any of it until now. Why can't I just put a new one on there like the one I have if I can determine the number on it? If it turns out that it's a 61 amp, can't I just put a 63 amp on it? If I go to a 100 amp, wouldn't i have to upgrade the wiring?
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Old Oct 17, 2022 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T3stinger
The small fan was on there when I bought the car and has run fine with it for 3 years. It's also the alternator that was on the car. I've had no issues with any of it until now. Why can't I just put a new one on there like the one I have if I can determine the number on it? If it turns out that it's a 61 amp, can't I just put a 63 amp on it? If I go to a 100 amp, wouldn't i have to upgrade the wiring?
Yes, you can just replace what you had. It may be all you need to repair. But, do you know how many amps is your electric fan is pulling?......Perhaps your alternator was being strained.........Was your amp gauge truly accurate? You won't pull 100 amps unless you have a 100 amp load. The extra is just for insurance if needed.
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Old Oct 17, 2022 | 04:09 PM
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When I purchased my DeWitts radiator and electric fan set up, DeWitts suggested going to a higher amperage alternator.
I have a 73 big block coupe and upgraded to a Power Master 100 amp alternator.
The need for a larger output alternator comes into play when your electric fan kicks on and draws a momentary serge of power at idle when your alternator is putting out the least amount of amperage.
Once the fan is on and running the power draw is minimal.
If you are sitting in traffic for any length of time and your electric fan is coming on and off as it should, the stock alternator may not be able to keep up with the load.
You may just be sneaking by or this has been an issue that has shortened the life of your alternator.
If you need to replace the alternator you have now, I would do the upgrade and be done with it.
When you do replace the alternator be sure to match the proper wiring on the connector.
Some alternators are a one wire connector and some are a three wire connector.
Some alternators require the use of an amp gauge and some require a volt gauge.




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Old Oct 17, 2022 | 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by C3 Stroker
Yes, you can just replace what you had. It may be all you need to repair. But, do you know how many amps is your electric fan is pulling?......Perhaps your alternator was being strained.........Was your amp gauge truly accurate? You won't pull 100 amps unless you have a 100 amp load. The extra is just for insurance if needed.
Honestly the fan rarely if at all comes on. I do not drive it if it’s in the 90s. I e heard it actually come on one time. It’s not like it comes on and off all the time. The voltage gauge that was used was at advanced auto for the reading.
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