Ignition Issue
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 17
Likes: 5
Ignition Issue
1973 w/ sbc 350 and a stock 4 speed
I've had an issue for over a year now. Tried everything I could think of.
When I turn the key I get nothing. I can jump start it just fine though. After jump starting I get 1 more start within an hour and then it's back to nothing. Driving the car doesn't help. 1 start and no more.
I have swapped battery 3 times even though they were all fine.
Changed Starter.
Checked for draws even though battery is never low but everything seems good.
Assumed ground - battery to frame looks ok, added ground cable to starter frame and block. Still no go.
Swapped alt for the heck of it - nothing.
Next up - make a new positive cable? Could this be an ignition cylinder issue even though it starts fine at a jump? Any advice would be great thanks in advance.
I've had an issue for over a year now. Tried everything I could think of.
When I turn the key I get nothing. I can jump start it just fine though. After jump starting I get 1 more start within an hour and then it's back to nothing. Driving the car doesn't help. 1 start and no more.
I have swapped battery 3 times even though they were all fine.
Changed Starter.
Checked for draws even though battery is never low but everything seems good.
Assumed ground - battery to frame looks ok, added ground cable to starter frame and block. Still no go.
Swapped alt for the heck of it - nothing.
Next up - make a new positive cable? Could this be an ignition cylinder issue even though it starts fine at a jump? Any advice would be great thanks in advance.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,062
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
Id get my test light or multimeter out and start working backwards from the starter, cant help but find the culprit.
Id be suspicious of the ign key but electrical isnt my gig. As they say usually its something simple. Battery connections tight?
Ground wire underneath secure and not corroded?
Id be suspicious of the ign key but electrical isnt my gig. As they say usually its something simple. Battery connections tight?
Ground wire underneath secure and not corroded?
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 13,068
Likes: 7,682
From: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
2025 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
2022 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
When it doesn't turn over. With a test light, do you get power to the small terminal on the solenoid?
if yes. Solenoid problem.
if no, plastic connector on firewall just right of distributor, do you get power to this connection when key is turned to start?
Back up, Clutch switch, do you get power to Clutch switch when you turn to start?
Get the picture?
Test light. Are you getting power to the small terminal on the starter solenoid! if not find the break!
If you are, bad solenoid or possibly bad starter.
if yes. Solenoid problem.
if no, plastic connector on firewall just right of distributor, do you get power to this connection when key is turned to start?
Back up, Clutch switch, do you get power to Clutch switch when you turn to start?
Get the picture?
Test light. Are you getting power to the small terminal on the starter solenoid! if not find the break!
If you are, bad solenoid or possibly bad starter.
Is my vette stock?? HAHA
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 20,036
Likes: 9,157
From: Im not allowed to tell you
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
When you say you get nothing is the battery weak? How are you jump starting it? How are yo setting up the cables? When you say you get one more start, is that with the jumper cables or without?. What is your battery voltage and after it starts what is the voltage when the car is running?
past issues I have seen
since these cars are all close to 50 years old and no one thinks to change the battery cables, I would disconnect the cables and take a resistance reading through the cables, both of them. they are exposed to the elements and can corrode internally which will limit your available voltage. Start there and get back to us
past issues I have seen
- bad batteries
- bad charger system
- slow drain on the system killing the battery
- bad cables limiting available voltage to the starter
- bad grounds on the starter or engine
- ignition system issues
- bad starters
- bad solenoids
since these cars are all close to 50 years old and no one thinks to change the battery cables, I would disconnect the cables and take a resistance reading through the cables, both of them. they are exposed to the elements and can corrode internally which will limit your available voltage. Start there and get back to us
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,809
From: Cool Northern Michigan
I recall reading that some years had some type of lock-out cable or anti-theft cable from the steering column IGN switch to the trans?
Anyone? Anyone?
Bueller?
Bueller?
Anyone?
Anyone? Anyone?
Bueller?
Bueller?
Anyone?
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Oct 23, 2022 at 07:06 PM.
Is my vette stock?? HAHA
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 20,036
Likes: 9,157
From: Im not allowed to tell you
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
they do but that wouldnt change the fact that it will start with a jump only. His isnt an intermittent problem like an electrical component slowly going bad.....I dealt with that this spring with a bad ignition switch...what a pain in the *** that was. Im leaning towards bad battery cables, then maybe a sticking solenoid or a bad connection at the solenoid
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 2,311
Likes: 715
From: Marietta GA
When you get the “No Start” by turning the ignition switch, do the other electric devices energize, like the gauges, turn signals etc? If these devices come on, have you investigated the clutch engagement switch? The easiest test is to use a small wire and jumper between the two terminals on the switch. Good Luck.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 7,424
Likes: 1,458
From: Little Rock AR
If you can get it to start with a remote start switch attached to the solenoid small S terminal and the large hot cable, then you have excessive voltage loss in the starting control circuit. Look for splices and voltage drops in the wiring, clutch safety switch, or anywhere else in the circuit.
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Pro
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 610
Likes: 167
From: Vancouver B.C.
As mentioned by others. Google voltage drop test sequence when key turned to start. Easily done. Had hot start issues on another vehicle once, isolated to corrosion inside cable sheathing. Next I'd do as suggested above - get test light out and isolate. Good luck electrical problems are very frustrating.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,656
Likes: 1,357
I would recommend just to try "shorting" the starter, with an old screwdriver, to see if it turns over. In that manner you have not introduced any other factors into the system. That will help you narrow down the flaw.
1973 w/ sbc 350 and a stock 4 speed
I've had an issue for over a year now. Tried everything I could think of.
When I turn the key I get nothing. I can jump start it just fine though. After jump starting I get 1 more start within an hour and then it's back to nothing. Driving the car doesn't help. 1 start and no more.
I have swapped battery 3 times even though they were all fine.
Changed Starter.
Checked for draws even though battery is never low but everything seems good.
Assumed ground - battery to frame looks ok, added ground cable to starter frame and block. Still no go.
Swapped alt for the heck of it - nothing.
Next up - make a new positive cable? Could this be an ignition cylinder issue even though it starts fine at a jump? Any advice would be great thanks in advance.
I've had an issue for over a year now. Tried everything I could think of.
When I turn the key I get nothing. I can jump start it just fine though. After jump starting I get 1 more start within an hour and then it's back to nothing. Driving the car doesn't help. 1 start and no more.
I have swapped battery 3 times even though they were all fine.
Changed Starter.
Checked for draws even though battery is never low but everything seems good.
Assumed ground - battery to frame looks ok, added ground cable to starter frame and block. Still no go.
Swapped alt for the heck of it - nothing.
Next up - make a new positive cable? Could this be an ignition cylinder issue even though it starts fine at a jump? Any advice would be great thanks in advance.
Old Pro Solo Guy
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 7,941
Likes: 4,303
From: Marlton NJ
If you can get it to start with a remote start switch attached to the solenoid small S terminal and the large hot cable, then you have excessive voltage loss in the starting control circuit. Look for splices and voltage drops in the wiring, clutch safety switch, or anywhere else in the circuit.
.If it starts that way, then I am gonna guess the clutch safety switch as the most likely culprit. Check wire from starter backwards for volts, start at start lug on solenoid, then go to clutch safety switch then go to main ignition switch at bottom & top of steering column. Somewhere you must have power! You can find it.