Going to replace my valve cover gaskets on my 82 CE. I purchased rubber ones. Do I need gasket sealer with rubber gaskets? Seems like it should be a easy job. Also, I assume they should be torqued to a certain number?

 

I use a little gasket sealer on everything unless the gasket manufacturer states not to.
If you have a modified engine and are running solid lifters that get adjusted on a regular basis I wouldn’t use gasket sealer on the valve covers.

 

I glue the gasket to the cover, let it dry and then install.
I place the glued drying covers on a flat surface to cure
torque by feel, starting with low side bolts

 

I used FEL-PRO 1628 gaskets, with no sealant. The 4 bolt holes have metal spacers, so the torque didn't seem critical. Read the Amazon reviews for similar comments. I s'pose I could seal them to the valve covers if I wanted to, but I didn't.

No leaks so far on two cars. At least not from the valve cover gaskets.

 

I installed Fel Pro VS12869T on my '74 in Jan 2018.
Fel Pro recommends installing them dry and that's what I did.

 

FEL-PRO 1628 gaskets, with no sealant for me as well. No leaks.

 

Thanks everyone. Just looked at what I got in. They are FEL-PRO VS12869 R. So I guess it's the good stuff.

 

depends on a couple things
condition of covers
difficulty in swapping gaskets

 

Drivers side look easy. Passengers side look to me like I will have to remove this (whatever it is)? What's in these hoses, coolant, air?

 

air diver valve
airpump system

 

Just found out it's air. That will make it a lot easier not having to deal with coolant.

 

1628 fel pro here too…no sealant..but needed longer bolts..stud time?
uh oh while there..time to refurb cvers
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ification.html

 

Definitely going to clean and re paint them. How did you paint the accent color on the top of the ribs?
Also this is a pic of the gasket they sent me. Not sure why one side has two holes. I assume when I go to install one of them will be the right set of holes. We will see. Also, did you just tighten them till it felt right or use a torque number?

 

Powder coated then da sander on ribs..they are bare aluminum..i think i noted in thread
the gasket i used had a steel washer spacer so you could not over tighten..
i went snug light…
edit..in thread i used my new mini ratchet to snug down..almost impossible to over tighten

 

Thank you. I appreciate your help! Mine is an 82 CE. There is a lot more crap in the way.

 

Made me LOL - thank you for that. I think the only C3s that don't leak are those with no fluids in them.

 

If there is no oil under it, then there is no oil in it!

 

FEL-PRO Valve Cover Gasket VS12869R from autozone.

I've had problems with oil leaking out from under my Edelbrock finned cast aluminum valve covers for the past 5 years. The underside of the cover has a rough cast surface. I've had a half a dozen different gaskets, but they all leak. I've tried gluing them to the valve covers, but then they still leak out the bottom. I've tried very little torque, they leak. I've tried lots of torque, they split and then they leak. A few weeks ago, out of desperation I got these felpro gaskets from Autozone. They're about 3/16 of an inch thick. Much thicker than any of the other cork ones that I've tried. They seem to be able to compress into the casting much better without splitting or having to over torque.

 

Somewhere during the years GM changed the valve covers from having the bolt hole from being exactly across from each other to the holes being offset so some gaskets have 2 holes to fit all valve gaskets.

 

Might be too late, but....First, I strongly suggest you use the blue 1628 Fel-Pro's, they have a steel core to prevent "over-compressing" the gasket, they Do Not leak, no sealer at all...they're re-usable and will last a long, long time! You will need longer bolts as mentioned above, personally I went to the local hardware store and bought allen headed stainless steel bolts, lock washers and flat washers....they really match the valve covers accenting the ribs and won't rust or need to be painted. As far as the rib tops being silver, around the '80 model C3 the valve covers went from aluminum to magnesium! On the magnesium covers the tops of ribs are painted, due to the fact that magnesium tends to turn dark quickly and doesn't retain its shine like aluminum....you'll want to take that into consideration when restoring the finish on your's! Good luck👍

Edit: to restore the finish, paint the tops of valve covers silver first (spray the whole top), after drying, tape the tops of the ribs with painters tape and trim with a razor blade or X-acto knife (will take some time). With rib tops covered spray your black, after the black sets-up a little start removing your masking tape very carefully with the tip of your blade to get it started lifting and finish peeling it off by hand!