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Fuse on Ignition Accessory Tap

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Old Nov 26, 2022 | 07:40 PM
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Default Fuse on Ignition Accessory Tap

Out of the ordinary question and not entirely specific to a C3.

Doing some rebuilding on a 1980 and have a few accessories to add, like a rearview with video and a remote lock/unlock. Not massive draws. Besides constant Battery 12v power they each require a tap into Ignition power too. I have the needed taps and will make the tie-ins clean at the various open tap spots on the fuse panel. I’m plugging right in, and not jumping off an existing fuse.

I will for sure put fuses in the BAT connected feeds, but would you normally also put a fuse into the IGN tapped leads? I know I could, but is it more “must” or “optional”, as good practice?

I never quite thought about it before and two of the harnesses I’m using parts from have them only on the constants, not the ignition legs. Left me wondering if I should splice some in.

Thanks! Pete

Last edited by pmsjr; Nov 26, 2022 at 07:46 PM.
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Old Nov 26, 2022 | 09:19 PM
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Wire needs to be protected by a fuse-

Contrary to popular belief it's to save the devise-
A fuse's job is to blow before current capacity of the wire's size is exceeded- stopping fires/meted wire.

Use the chart for selecting the correct fuse size- can go with a smaller amperage fuse but do not use a larger one.



Bubba's chart-


I'd look at using a relay-the power comes from the battery and just uses a small amount of current from the ignition source to power the components-

Here's a really simple one- one wire to ignition- one the the battery and a ground- you'll be able to control three devices and the wiring not look like some thing Clark Griswold did-




This controls 9 circuits- modular


Or you can control 18- or more




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Old Nov 27, 2022 | 02:06 AM
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Thanks Richard. For the tables and the idea of using an auxiliary setup. Even that body mount well in the kick panel area. I had not considered that available space.

Pete
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Old Nov 27, 2022 | 06:38 AM
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The tap sockets on the fuse panel are already fuse protected. They tap in after the panel fuse that connects to the battery. They were designed to accept accessory plug ins at the factory (defroster, cruise, etc) without needing another inline fuse.
.
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Old Nov 27, 2022 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by stevedinino
The tap sockets on the fuse panel are already fuse protected. They tap in after the panel fuse that connects to the battery. They were designed to accept accessory plug ins at the factory (defroster, cruise, etc) without needing another inline fuse.
.
Yes- they are fused- but if you are running a smaller gauge wire rated at less than current capacity of the fuse- there is a possibility of fire/melted wires.

Factory accessories aftermarket accessories
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Old Nov 27, 2022 | 09:54 AM
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Sorry, you guys lost me a little.
Suppose I use the IGN tap I have circled in blue, or even the one above it. Are you suggesting there’s a fuse already between that point and the battery/source?
If so, how would you know what fuse protects it, or the various other tap points there, to then follow up with Richard’s point about capacity?
I’m guessing a neighboring fuse, but how do you know which neighboring fuse covers which tap point?

I also realized those tap points don’t show up on my total wiring diagram, so I couldn’t just trace them back to tell their upstream connection either.

Thanks again!




Last edited by pmsjr; Nov 27, 2022 at 10:11 AM.
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Old Nov 27, 2022 | 10:11 AM
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I agree it’s very confusing as to which one is fused or not even using diagram. Here’s my thread with same questions on usb chargers (low amp) and Bluetooth. You can Put the distribution block under the console and fused differently as needed.
tap colors are confusing as well.
also my lessons on using relay and power right from battery to not over draw fuse panel and fusible links. It also helps with radio noise.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...o-8-track.html




Last edited by interpon; Nov 27, 2022 at 10:19 AM.
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Old Nov 27, 2022 | 10:23 AM
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Note replacement fuse block warning


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Old Nov 27, 2022 | 10:48 AM
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Each fuse is labeled except the fuse cavity circled in the OP provided diagram.
Do a continuity check on each side of where the fuse would be and to the terminal circled.
This will tell you a couple things...
Is the empty IGN cell even bussed to the empty fuse cavity...
If so...
What side of the fuse cavity is actually line in or bussed side...
I don't have a split photo of the more modern fuse panel but you can see from this photo (Late 1977) that the IGN cell #9 is bussed and is protected by the 10AMP GAUGES fuse.
#14 is hot ONLY when the ignition switch is in the ON or START position ...
Most fuse panels will have a switched side and a non-switched side, it is up to you to figure this out...
Example Buss #12 is from one of my fusible links at the starter solenoid and is HOT anytime the battery is connected...

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