Fuse on Ignition Accessory Tap
Doing some rebuilding on a 1980 and have a few accessories to add, like a rearview with video and a remote lock/unlock. Not massive draws. Besides constant Battery 12v power they each require a tap into Ignition power too. I have the needed taps and will make the tie-ins clean at the various open tap spots on the fuse panel. I’m plugging right in, and not jumping off an existing fuse.
I will for sure put fuses in the BAT connected feeds, but would you normally also put a fuse into the IGN tapped leads? I know I could, but is it more “must” or “optional”, as good practice?
I never quite thought about it before and two of the harnesses I’m using parts from have them only on the constants, not the ignition legs. Left me wondering if I should splice some in.
Thanks! Pete
Last edited by pmsjr; Nov 26, 2022 at 07:46 PM.





Contrary to popular belief it's to save the devise-
A fuse's job is to blow before current capacity of the wire's size is exceeded- stopping fires/meted wire.
Use the chart for selecting the correct fuse size- can go with a smaller amperage fuse but do not use a larger one.
Bubba's chart-
I'd look at using a relay-the power comes from the battery and just uses a small amount of current from the ignition source to power the components-
Here's a really simple one- one wire to ignition- one the the battery and a ground- you'll be able to control three devices and the wiring not look like some thing Clark Griswold did-
This controls 9 circuits- modular
Or you can control 18- or more
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Factory accessories ≠ aftermarket accessories
Suppose I use the IGN tap I have circled in blue, or even the one above it. Are you suggesting there’s a fuse already between that point and the battery/source?
If so, how would you know what fuse protects it, or the various other tap points there, to then follow up with Richard’s point about capacity?
I’m guessing a neighboring fuse, but how do you know which neighboring fuse covers which tap point?
I also realized those tap points don’t show up on my total wiring diagram, so I couldn’t just trace them back to tell their upstream connection either.
Thanks again!
Last edited by pmsjr; Nov 27, 2022 at 10:11 AM.
tap colors are confusing as well.
also my lessons on using relay and power right from battery to not over draw fuse panel and fusible links. It also helps with radio noise.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...o-8-track.html
Last edited by interpon; Nov 27, 2022 at 10:19 AM.
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Do a continuity check on each side of where the fuse would be and to the terminal circled.
This will tell you a couple things...
Is the empty IGN cell even bussed to the empty fuse cavity...
If so...
What side of the fuse cavity is actually line in or bussed side...
I don't have a split photo of the more modern fuse panel but you can see from this photo (Late 1977) that the IGN cell #9 is bussed and is protected by the 10AMP GAUGES fuse.
#14 is hot ONLY when the ignition switch is in the ON or START position ...
Most fuse panels will have a switched side and a non-switched side, it is up to you to figure this out...
Example Buss #12 is from one of my fusible links at the starter solenoid and is HOT anytime the battery is connected...













