Hello everyone, I have spent a day and a half trying to remove the fuel pump line to the carburetor but everything I do wont get the bolt off of the fuel pump section. I sprayed WD-40 and the bolt has now been stripped. Nothing budges at all. Anyone have ay ideas before I have to take the entire fuel pump out with the fuel line attached to it and buy a new fuel line? Here is a pic of the stripped bolt.

 

I might suggest that you use a Hot Air Gun and heat the fitting and pump up well and then apply a good penetrating oil like KROIL Oil and then let it sit a few minutes. The heat is critical but you don't want any open sparks or flames naturally to get the parts warmed up and then the oil will be "drawn" into the joint allowing it to help break it free. It looks like it might be corroded to the different metals or it could be held on by a sealant. Either way a bit of heat is the trick on many overly tight parts.

A Vice Grip wrench of the appropriate size to be able to get in there might be the right wrench to try. Get the vice-grips on the fitting tight (after heating and oiling) and break it loose.

That is an interesting looking fuel supply line used on that pump. I have never seen that type.

 

I agree. Or….are you really gonna be able to use that fuel line again with the fitting nut all jacked up? If the answer is no, then cut the line next to the nut.

 

Ok that sounds good, I'll need to get a vice grip small enough to fit in the area for my hand to freely move. I just hope nothing would catch on fire as I am messing with a fuel line.

 

I am leaning towards this option. Was hoping to not have to cut it and just pull it out from the loosened top section at the carburetor entry when I take off the entire fuel pump. Although, my new fuel pump does not have the gold attachment peice that goes in between the pump and the bolted fuel line. Where could I find that? It is this peice in the picture

 

That is a pretty common brass L-shaped fitting. Most local parts stores have a bin area either out front or behind the counter that has fittings like that. Weatherhead was the original manufacturer, and many parts stores still carry the Weatherhead brand. You only need to bring that in for them to match it up--that's a common size.

 

Perfect, sounds good thank you!

 

I now use a half and half solution of transmission fluid and acetone- it has worked far better than anything off the shelf I have ever tried. When I was trying to remove the exhaust tubes from the exhaust manifold, I had two that would not come out with heat/wax, PB Blaster, WD40, etc. When I tried this combination, it came out after sitting for two minutes. I have told all my neighbors and they all have had very good luck with this as well. I saw it on line on a test between all the Kroils et al and gave it a try.

 

OP!!! before you cut etc... be prepared to handle a LOT of gasoline can come out if not prepared to plug catch and ventilate.. it can go bad fast..

i agree.. that is jacked... small vice grip BOLT type not regular will remove that..buy a new line. that brass block is probably OK to re use unless stripped.. sponsor vendors sell it all

 

Before you do anything to your fuel pump be sure to have a good size working Fire Extinguisher to handle any unwelcome events. Just don't do anything that makes sparks while working on that area. I have one in the car and one on the garage wall and I don't think you can have too many fire extinguishers in a Home. In the car is a Chrome Halon extinguisher and the garage are the BIG conventional Chemical powder types

They make various types of Vice Grips and I would probably prefer one that has as much material in contact with the old fitting to ensure it comes off the brass fitting.

The suggestion of Acetone and ATF fluid does work and in tests it actually works better than my normal first choice of KROIL Oil. I have been using Kroil for so many decades it is just my Go-to product. I also have a good "HOT" Hot air gun that is electric and works almost as well as an open flame.

If you have to try using a large Cable/wire cutter to slice thru the fuel line and just remove the brass block. This is assuming that you have the other end of the fuel line off the carburetor. Is the fuel line steel or what?

I have been removing stuck fasteners from Old English and Italian Motorcycles, Boats, airplanes and English cars and have become pretty good at getting stuck fasteners off. I think the heat makes a HUGE difference. Aluminum Cylinder heads and Steel spark plugs was conceived by someone who really hated this world, therefore I stock a couple types of anti-seize which I always use on any multi-metal connections. Just avoid any Copper base anti-seize materials on Aluminum. I use Champion Spark Plug brand anti-seize (a Very light Graphite based) on all spark plugs and the thicker graphite based anti-seize on most common metal connections.

Removing the pump is not a bad idea if you have to because the fitting will not let go. Cut the hose and pull it out. Might be a good time for a new Fuel Pump anyway.

 

Oh the reason the fuel line is coming out is because I NEED a new fuel pump. My carburetor isn't getting any fuel hence my car won't start. The fuel line bolted in the fuel pump to the carburetor is the problem that won't let me continue this project. I used a vice grip and it did not do the job. (Although I did not try it with the acetone mixed with the transmission fluid, only tried the vice grip with WD-40) Still nothing. I am just stripping the bolt more and more. This is ridiculous. I am resorting to cutting the wire from the top right before it bends then sliding it down with the fuel pump.

It is officially 2 days that I have been trying to take this bolt off just to replace the fuel pump to get my car starting again. I want to use a saw that cuts metal because I am afraid anything else will cause sparks and could light a fire. So officially tomorrow I am done with trying the bolt, going to be cutting the line and I will just buy a new fuel line along with my new fuel pump, can't hurt to have new stuff in the car..

 

My fuel line from my fuel pump to the carburetor is not getting any fuel, that is the reason I am changing the fuel pump and need this damn bolt off so I could swap it out, but it refuses to undo itself.

You mention that there will be a lot of gas coming out of the line that I will cut but there is no gas traveling through the fuel pump to that fuel line because my fuel pump is bad, hence why I am swapping it. Do you still think there is a good amount of gas in that fuel pump? There isn't any at the end that goes to the carburetor..

 

Get the front of the car jacked up and secured as high as possible. Depending on the level of fuel in the tank yes it is possible you will have fuel pouring out of the pump. Fluid in most cases runs downhill....

 

Sounds good, then the fuel pump's problem must be that it is not pushing the gas out to the end of the fuel line that goes to the carburetor because there isn't any fuel there, it must be just collecting in the tank and a little in the line itself..

 

Guys...cut the line with bolt cutters. That is if the OP has some.
And yes there will likely be some fuel in the pump. No different than any fuel pump change. gonna have to plug or stop the flow of fuel from the tank in some way. I just siphon fuel out of the tank until it's mostly empty. Jack the front, as removing the front tire makes this job a lot easier.

 

you have mentioned but i must stress. no power tools to cut the line. sparks and gas mix real good. but i think you will get it with vise grips. and that brass adapter will also come out and go into the new pump. anew line can be fabbed with parts store brake line that size. if you have to use any rubber, use 3 buck a foot efi line and efi clamps. not the cheap stuff. and keep the rubber part as short as possible and away from exhaust. i think Lars has emailable fuel line building instructions with correct line and bend measurements. v8fastcars@gmail.com

 

Clamp the rubber fuel lines with vise grips to stop the flow of gas.

Remove the vapor line. Cut off the steel fuel line and remove the pump

The brass fitting will unscrew easily once you get the pump out of the car. You should not need to replace it.

Bend up and flare a new fuel line or just replace it.

 

I would not use any heat source. As others have said, jack the front of the car up and put on jack stands. At the rear of the car, use needle nose vice grips to pinch the rubber fuel line at the tank. I slip some rubber hose on the vice grips so the jaws do not destroy the fuel line. As others have said cut the line at the pump and replace. Remove the right wheel and work through the wheel well opening with extensions. Set the timing mark at at TDC so the fuel rod is at its highest position. remove the pump. On the front of the engine, remove the bolt just above pump. Replace it with a longer bolt of the same thread size. The purpose of the bolt is to capture the rod in the uppermost position making it easier to install the pump. I push the rod up as far as it will go with one hand and hand tighten the bolt with my other hand. After the pump is installed, remove the long bolt and put back the smaller bolt using some gasket seal. Depending upon your application, change all of the fuel filters. Also, as a precaution, I would do an oil change. If the pump failed because the diaphragm leaked, your oil will be contaminated with gas. Lastly, remove the clamp in the rear, start the car and check for leaks. Good luck. Jerry

 

It’s not too difficult to siphon the fuel into gas containers. Then disconnect the line from the tank to the pump and drain the rest. I use a marine pump siphon (very inexpensive). I’m too old to be scrambling for an extinguisher! No price on the piece of mind.

 

Good advice above..from many
i might add fuel pumps are a crap shoot nowadays..
so you removed fuel line at carb cranked over engine and zero flow?
you will also likely need to bend the fuel line as the new pumps are longer than original..if that is what you have..
pic of s hose? Maybe pinched?
looks like you have an older short correct size mexican airtex pump on there..
fuel pump thread
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...mp-79-l82.html

my instal and fuel journey..not always the pump..
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...e-on-road.html