When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Did some maintenance on the strut rods and u-joints and now can't get the brake pads spread apart to reinstall on rotors....one side went on but can't collapse the pistons on the other side .......what's a guy to do?????
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Hi and welcome
Open the bleeder on the stuck side and squeeze the pad evenly so the pistons go flush with the caliper.
Insert a socket that is about 1 and 1/2" top to bottom between the pads and insert the caliper in place, and tighten the bleeder.
Measure the thickness of your rotor. If you have a table-saw, rip a piece of wood just a smidge thicker than the rotor.
Jamb that stick in the caliper until the pads clear the rotor, then remove.
Like Peterbuilt said, open a bleeder. But I would attach a couple feet of clear hose and run the DOT3 into a plastic bottle.
Top off the master.
So I won’t need to bleed the system to get any air out, right? Fantastic, thanks guys…..
Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
Measure the thickness of your rotor. If you have a table-saw, rip a piece of wood just a smidge thicker than the rotor.
Jamb that stick in the caliper until the pads clear the rotor, then remove.
Like Peterbuilt said, open a bleeder. But I would attach a couple feet of clear hose and run the DOT3 into a plastic bottle.
Top off the master.
Sometimes when the pads & pistons are shoved into the bore more than normal operation, it stirs up some corrosion that has been dormant.
Using clear tubing / bottle will show if further flushing of the caliper is needed.
Just leave the brake pedal alone if you see rusty DOT3 and open both inner & outer bleeders and allow to gravity bleed for an hour or until the fluid drips clear.
Removal of master lid will allow the system to drain a bit.