wvleon

Hello all and Happy New Year
im doing a complete restomod project on my 1970 BB convertible. Mark at Vortec Pro is finishing up the 467 and Im backing it with a tremec tkx.
im in the middle of removing all the wiring and im have an issue on the connector on top of the steering column. I dont want to break any connectors but it is a real bear to pull the plug apart due to the location and the fact that it seems pretty tight. The lower connector on the column was easy. not sure what the one on the top side of the column is but i believe it is horn and turn signal. is there a trick to free the 2 halves of the connector plug? by the way I do not have AC
Any advise is appreciated ( did i say I hate wiring )

thanks,
*****

Eliredandblack

If the “Harmonica” connector is the original one from the factory, I believe there is a tab in the middle that you pull on, before separating the two halves. Google harmonica connectors to see the tab that you need to pull on to separate, it’s nearly impossible to see the part under the steering column.

wvleon

Looks like I figured this out. it was easier to take the 2 screws holding the connectors to the column and then pull the electrical connectors. i just need to remember and position the ignition lock rod to the connector properly when reassembling
working under the dash is such a joy as i read here from multiple members. next is removing the power brake booster in anticipation of the hydroboost install. May as well get all the contortion jobs at the same time so I can go to the chiropractor once, LOL

Eliredandblack

Do your reading, I have read numerous posts where guys have used specific sockets and associated tools to get the nuts back on. Get the name of a Good Chiropractor ahead of time.

F22

It's almost far better to just drop the steering column! Two big bolts and loosen the floor plate and you should have a good amount of room to do this.

SLVRSHRK

Yep, what he said.. I just finished re-assembling mine after a two year ordeal that included a hydroboost conversion. Mine has a TKO600 w/hydraulic throw-out bearing and I decided to pull the pedal box assembly and swap the pin for the clutch rod and the start safety switch to better improve the ratio for pedal feel. Talk about a PIA. I think that the pedal box assembly is like part #2 put into the car

Removing the Steering column is pretty straight forward and will greatly increase access. Pulling tach and speedo will help as well.

wvleon

sounds like a common issue for most guys. I lowered the column and had access to do what I needed. Decided to pull the brake booster and like others its a major pain but its done. I am also going with hydroboost and hydraulic clutch release. Will do the Borgenson mod since the engine is out and everything is out of the way.
curious as to everyone thoughts as to the order of projects. thinking of Borgenson install first, then clutch master, then hydroboost install before I start on wiring install. I will clean and detail the engine compartment while everything is out.

SLVRSHRK

So I have all three of those on my car. If you are not removing the body, I would install the clutch master first, then the Borgeson, then the hydroboost. To me, that gives you the most access for each install.

For the clutch master install, I had the steering column out to get me all the room I could get. Just sayin....

wvleon

thanks Silvershrk as I appreciate learning from others experiences. I havent opened the Silver Sport box with the TKX but it sounds like I better do so and figure out where to mount the clutch master first. Since I have a big block I want to get everything done in advance of dropping in the engine since I am sure it will all be a tight fit, headers included.

SLVRSHRK

I installed the American Powertrain TKO600 w/their Hydramax clutch kit. For the install, I was able to use the original hole in the firewall from the clutch rod with some modifications. For my install (with their mounting brackets and hardware), I had a bit of interference with the lower mounting plate of the steering column and one corner. Had to do a little trimming to get the linkage aligned and everything mounted. Nothing major, just something to look out for.

So if you don't mind, let me pass on some of my hard learned lessons w/respect to converting to hydraulic clutch....

I did the initial conversion as part of a body off several years ago that included a number of things like finish welding the frame, rear coil-over conversion, Borgeson, really too much to list. Car was apart for over three years in total. So much was going on that I didn't pick up on some important things.

After completion, my clutch pedal was very stiff and was right up at the top. I attributed this to the clutch pedal rod ratio not being lower than the recommended ratio (between 5-7 I believe). But I had just spent three years of my life and the car was running good, so I just added it to my punch list of annoyances. In this work, I had replaced the clutch with a high performance clutch. Two years ago, I felt the clutch start to slip and thought, 'OK, now I need to tear it all apart and I am going to figure it out and fix this pedal!'

My first clue to the real issue was when I pulled the motor and unbolted the transmission from bell housing. Tranny pushed itself away from the motor when bolts loosened. It was obvious that I had not paid enough attention to getting the hydraulic bearing spaced correctly. Which was puzzling, because I spent a good deal of time getting my bell housing dialed-in and did the spacing procedure as described in the instructions, but reality begged to differ.

The bearing was shimmed too close to the clutch and once the clutch started to wear just a tiny bit, it started resting on the fingers. Due to the reduced pressure, I managed to grind away one complete side of the clutch disc in about 2-3K miles!

Did some investigating and came across some very good information from lars relating to the necessary bearing travel and how it varies based on clutch manufacturer in the below thread.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...vel-range.html

From this, I figured I was overdriving the clutch as well since the fingers were resting on the bearing. Two BAD things. When I re-assembled this time, I used a McCleod Super Stock clutch, paid VERY particular attention to spacing the bearing, swapped the pin and starter switch on the clutch pedal, and, and I would stress this one as well, put nuts on the threaded rod for the hydraulic master so I could use them as a pedal stop so as not to overdrive the hydraulic master and the pressure plate.

Hard lesson to learn, but my clutch pedal is now buttery smooth, linear and starts engaging early in the release. My nickel's worth of free advice to you is to PAY VERY CLOSE ATTENTION to these aspects of your build, because fixing them are a real PIA. Know your clutch and know your hydraulic bearing properties.

I don't envy you in terms of space (I envy your 467 though ) with getting that big block in there in conjunction with these mods.

Best of Luck!

wvleon

Silvershark, are you sure you dont want to vacation in AZ,i could use your help, LOL
hopefully if I take my time and use your advice I can get through this. I know the feeling of putting 10lbs of potatoes in a 5 pound bag. at least i dont have to deal with air conditioning. appreciate your input and if you can think of anything else I am all ears.