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Today - I added the Posi Additive to my rear end.. I drove around a little bit (did a lot of curves) and it's not gone 100% :( :(.. Well - I couldn't do 8's because there's no place where I could do them without somebody calling the cops...
i took my vette out yesterday for the first time in 2 weeks, and i use the church parking lot down the street to do a few turns left and right. it takes about 5 minutes and if someone does call the cops, i'm gone before they would get there, and besides i really didn't do anything, although i doubt if the cops would understand this procedure helps get the lube between the posi plates in the diff.
You don't have to do figure eights, all you have to do is do circles in both directions for awhile...... figure 8's are just the easiest way to do it most times.
I just changed my diff fluid Saturday. I noticed the plug doesn't thread all the way in. I couldn't notice its original depth because it was covered in crud when I removed it. I hope it is indeed a "plumbing-style" plug (for lack of a better term -- NPT???)... :confused:
Olivier:
What have I missed, are you having rear end problems? Chattering?
The problem actually started after my 12.19 run at Moroso Speedway in December... The clunk started on the way back home from the track.. Since then - it got worse - so I decided to change the positraction fluid.. The old fluid looked pretty bad (very dark) even though - I changed it 1.5 years ago... After refilling the differential - there was some improvement.. but there was still a clonk... I added some additive and drove a little bit (lots of curves). There's still a little clonk... I will drive the car to work one of those days.. and if the problem presists - I will have the differential rebuilt with stronger parts.. The 1.60' and 1.70's 60' times took it's toll...
You don't have to do figure eights, all you have to do is do circles in both directions for awhile...... figure 8's are just the easiest way to do it most times.
Well - I did a lot of turns on my short trip.. but the clonk still isn't gone... :( :(
When does this clunk occur? If it occurs when you get on it, it could be a bad drive/half shaft ujoint or the front bushing between the diff and crossmember is toast. Just a suggestion of other things to look at before you spend the $$$s!
When does this clunk occur? If it occurs when you get on it, it could be a bad drive/half shaft ujoint or the front bushing between the diff and crossmember is toast. Just a suggestion of other things to look at before you spend the $$$s!
The clonk only happens at sharp turns... When driving straight.. there's no problem at all... The U-joints are only a few months old and solid spicers...
Anyone know what is involved in removing the rear end. It's the one thing I still have not replaced. I know the 80's are a little different than the 79's and prior. So whats involved? also after seeing that pinion all screwed, I want to go in and tackle mine while I am waiting for my new block.
Anyone know what is involved in removing the rear end. It's the one thing I still have not replaced. I know the 80's are a little different than the 79's and prior. So whats involved? also after seeing that pinion all screwed, I want to go in and tackle mine while I am waiting for my new block.
I personally have never done it .. but I've heared that it's not a difficult job if you have the right facility and tools... 2 - 3 hours to remove + 2 - 3 hours to install...
WashingtonRacer - I've not done this either but have read that one thing to make sure of is to loosen the bolts that hold the spring to the diff case while the car is on the ground to avoid the possibility of the unsprung tension cracking the diff case. The same would hold true when reinstalling and tightening - wait till the weight of the car is on the spring before you tighten and torque the bolts. Hopefully someone who has done this will chime in and verify this and add other tips for you. Good luck with it! :smash:
WashingtonRacer - I've not done this either but have read that one thing to make sure of is to loosen the bolts that hold the spring to the diff case while the car is on the ground to avoid the possibility of the unsprung tension cracking the diff case. The same would hold true when reinstalling and tightening - wait till the weight of the car is on the spring before you tighten and torque the bolts. Hopefully someone who has done this will chime in and verify this and add other tips for you. Good luck with it! :smash:
Thanks.. I'm not going to remove/install the differential myself.. I live in a Condo and doing that kind of work in a condo garage is out of the question..