GAUGES STOPPED WORKING AT THE SAME TIME (I think). not sure about battery gauge)
Clock has continued to work properly

with key on - on back of gauges, pink wire for. oil - temp - fuel - all read between 9 and 10 volts
FUEL. - remove sender tan wire at tank - gauge pegs to far right.
ground sender tan wire - gauge pegs to the left
test resistor at rear of gauge - shows 30 ohms
ohms meter at tank attached to ground and sender tip - get tone , but shows - 0- ohms
test black ground wire at connection and frame - get continuity tone
TEMP - remove ohms wire at block - goes (stays) at -0-
ground ohms wire to frame - goes to approx 230 degrees. (does not peg all the way to right)
re-attach ohms wire to sender - returns to 100.
confirmed that insulator washer in place at 3 o'clock position on gauge
OIL - remove ohms wire at sender - pegs to the right
ground ohms wire to frame - needle moves to approx 20 (does not peg left)
test resistor at rear of gauge - shows 41 ohms
BATTERY
no volts showing across the two black wire connections at back of gauge - needle does not move when headlights, blower, horn are engaged simultaneously
ALL WORKING
turn signals, horn, headlights, dash lights, courtesy lights, brake lights, parking lights, license lights, clock, speedo tach, blower motor, alarms, hazards, seat belt, door ajar, cigar lighter, wipers, radio

Ran NEW GROUND wire directly from negative battery terminal and spliced them out to ground studs on the temp gauge - oil gauge - fuel gauge.

start engine. - oil gauge at 20 , temp at -0-, fuel at -0- no movement on battery....clock works.

I am at a loss..... I got these test steps from reading other Forum posts and Wilcox videos
ANY SUGGESTIONS FOR NEXT STEPS?