Is it hard to change the fuel pump on a small block with headers? What are the basic steps involved and what is a good fuel pump to use? Stock pumps keep busting the diaphrams and blowing out oil out of the breather hole.

 

I can't speak to any header complications and I've not had any problem with pump longevity (wood :smash: ), but removing the pump should be fairly straightforward.

I think the worst part can be getting the flare nuts off. Have a good set of flare wrenches on hand and hope that the nuts aren't already rounded off.

 

Like Jerry said the main problem will be with the flared fitting.

THe pump is easy to remove-- two bolts...... I would suggest to lock the pump driveshaft in its most up right position as possible. This will make reinstallation easy.

All you do is remove the bolt in the front of the block by the pump( 3/8" thread) and stick a longer one in--- it pushes against pushrod keeping it in place.

This job should take around an hour barring any problems

 

the pump can be easy, and it can also be the biggest PIA in the world. It all depends on the push rod. You will have to slide the pump actuator underneath the push rod otherwise you'll get nothing pumping. It's a push rod that slides along that cam shaft. Being a hard-headed marine I attacked it with muscle trying to force the fuel pump actuator down to bolt it in. I think you may be able to rotate the cam shaft to make the push rod go farther in and eliminating the need to press the pump actuator down. I hope this makes sense. :steering:

 

It is just two lines and two bolts holding the pump on. Here's a tip... Have a plug ready for the rubber line that comes from the tank. (rags too). When you get the pump off you will see a push rod in the cavity. That rides on an egg shaped cam lobe so you need to turn the engine by hand until the rod is as far up into the cavity as it will go. Next reach around the front corner of the engine block in line with the pushrod. There is a bolt. remove it and replace it with a longer bolt while you hold the pushrod up. Hand tighten... finger tight against the rod. That will hold the rod up, allowing very easy installation of the new pump. Get e NEW A/C delco pump. I still have the original pump for my 69.. The arm wore but the diaphram didn't burst. Once every 33 years is pretty good I'd say :thumbs:

 

Remove rt. ft. tire & use long exts.


Teuffelhunde

It's also faster to force it.

:cool:

 

I DID MINE A FEW MONTHS AGO. FUNNY THING IS, I HAD TO REPLACE AN
AFTERMARKET BEEFED UP CARTER PUMP WHICH A PREVIOUS OWNER PUT IN (AND FAILED). MY A/C DELCO (AROUND $20) IS WORKING JUST FINE.

HERES A FEW TIPS...DON'T STICK YOUR HEAD UNDER THE PUMP WHEN YOU
TAKE OFF THE LINE FROM THE GAS TANK. IF YOU DO, THE BURNING IN YOUR
EYES FROM THE GAS WILL GO AWAY.... EVENTUALLY.

ALSO, ONCE YOU GET THE PUSHROD IN THE RIGHT POSITION ON THE CAM,
USE SOME GREASE TO PREVENT IT FROM FALLING OUT WHILE YOU ARE TRYING TO RE-ATTACH THE PUMP.

GOOD LUCK :cheers:

 

PS
silvervetteman

You just got lucky. Have seen a c3 Corvette when fairly new with a leaking fuel pump w/ gas all over the place after hours at a Steak & Ale. The car had to be moved before it could be started safely! Lucky that no one tossed a cig. !

 

Go at it through the wheel well with the tire off. Use extensions as Ganey recommended. I used a big glob of grease on the end of the rod and crammed it up in the hole. Since the block was cold the grease held it fine. I had put a brand new A/C Delco pump on when I put the engine in, it lasted 5 minutes and the spring broke. I replaced it with an Autozone pump (it was actually more expensive than the A/C Delco pump) and it has worked good for the past couple of months.

 

Corvettelvr73,

What Jerry and Mike said :yesnod:

BE SURE TO REMOVE THE LONG BOLT HOLDING THE PUSHROD IN PLACE BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINE !

You have to make sure the pushrod presses DOWN on the fuel pump lever. Unless you do something to keep the pushrod in position, the pushrod will slip down and rest against the plate that is just behind the fuel pump unit. If you install the fuel pump and the pushrod has slipped down, then the fuel pump lever will be ON TOP OF the pushrod, and the fuel pump will not work.

On some SBC the front of the block is not tapped for a bolt to lock the fuel pump pushrod in place (Goodwrench 350). If that is the case, use a small amount of assembly lube or grease on the shaft and end of the pushrod to temporarily hold it up into the block while you install the fuel pump.

Sometimes the position of the camshaft is such that the lobe that actuates the fuel pump is pressing down on the pushrod for the fuel pump. If that is the case, then the fuel pump will be more difficult to install as you are compressing the fuel pump spring. You can "bump" the engine around until the pushrod is against the neutral part of the cam. BE SURE TO REMOVE THE BOLT HOLDING THE PUSHROD IN PLACE BEFORE BUMPING THE ENGINE.

 

I don't have anything to add as far as method since it's already been covered, but can you explain what you mean by this:

 

Go w/an electric unit.

 

I replaced my original one on my 74 with another AC Delco. Follow all the advice above. My Hooker Headers did not interfere. I didn't check the status of the flange nuts on the fuel line before I started though. They were severely rounded, and I did not have a replacement line. I removed the line entirely with some vice grips I think, ground the sides of the nut flat again with an angle grinder and put it back in. Once it was back up and running, I ordered a new line from Mid America, one of the pre bent jobs specifically for my car.

 

I did mine in a NAPA parking lot in Salinas California. I would say easy.

 

I used a wad of heavy grease to hold the rod up in the cavity. But I would recommend you get a new set of pre curved fuel lines to install while your changing the pump. Their only about ten bucks and since your already down there? :chevy