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On my '72 I removed the steering box to have it rebuilt by Bairs. I had to use pickle fork to remove the pitman arm from the valve and wasn't too concerned knowing the boot is just a dust shield. After getting everything back together I've got fluid leaking from the steering ball/stud where the pitman attaches. The valve was a remanufactured one I got from Zip a couple years ago. I'm concerned that just rebuilding the valve may not fix the problem. It looks like I can get a kit that includes new ball/stud but did I damage the body as well?
The control valves have two rebuild kit options. I believe the basic is around $26 and the advanced kit is $42.
See if you can find Willcox video on rebuilding the PV. Then see if that is something you are willing to do. Bring your laptop to your workbench and have a helper run the video. Both of you can make sure you don't miss any steps. Tip: Do not grease the unit until it is installed, one time deal.
The ram cylinder is something you should buy new and not rebuild, over & over.
I've viewed the Wilcox (and others) video and feel comfortable with the process. I'm just concerned I may have done damage that won't be fixed with a rebuild kit. I was pretty shocked when I went out to the garage and had all my power steering fluid on the floor and it was coming out under the boot. I see Paragon has new for $225 and I will play it safe and go that route. I did buy a new ram back when I originally installed the remanufactured PV. I've never been happy as I had some small drips here and there after I rebuilt the front suspension and steering. The only item I didn't do at that time was the steering box and in that process I caused this problem. Should have used something other than pickle fork to press the pitman from the PV so it's on me.
Thanks for the feedback. This forum has helped me numerous times when I get ready for the next upgrade and is a great resource.
Just FYI........the Ram when it gets to a point is a throwaway item........what happens is the O-ring that seals the shaft will wear a groove in the shaft at the point where the wheels are straight going down the road.......the millions of slight movements that the shaft endures as the wheels shake and oscillate back and forth will wear an 1/8" wide groove and it will just leak out.......
I did not believe this til I inspected mine......and sure as **** it was worn and dripping......
I will assume that you will install the control valve on your car. The instructions call for the front wheels off the ground and then starting the engine, and next turning the steering wheel. In my case the car would be on jack stands, and I am always reluctant to open the door with my convertible in the air, much less starting the engine. I took it to a shop and paid around $ 125 to have them install a new valve. Oh it never leaked and it was from Lonestar.
Actually you want to have the ram disconnected from the frame bracket for the first start up and adjustment so that when (not if) the valve is off center, it only extends the ram and doesn’t slam your steering linkage to one side and possibly injure you if you have your hands on the wheel at that time. I used to have the adjustment procedure on my phone, lemme see if I can find it.
Does anyone know what the torque specs might be for the compression nuts? I don't plan to spend a lot of money on crowfoot or similar wrenches, but thought I could use my line wrench and torque wrench to get a feel for how tight to apply. Also, that last quarter turn often turns the line as well and these lines have to be just in the right position. Any tricks to that? I know I can back the line in the final tightening and hope it ends up exactly where I want it but there must be better way,
I will assume that you will install the control valve on your car. The instructions call for the front wheels off the ground and then starting the engine, and next turning the steering wheel. In my case the car would be on jack stands, and I am always reluctant to open the door with my convertible in the air, much less starting the engine. I took it to a shop and paid around $ 125 to have them install a new valve. Oh it never leaked and it was from Lonestar.
Why would you be reluctant to open the door with your convertible in the air..jack stands??
I have owned my 73 convertible about 6 years. Whenever I jack up the car for any reason, it seems that the door fitment changes. My car has the original frame bushings that need to replaced, the bird cage seems ok, but let’s face it the car is close to 50 years old, and who knows what the actual mileage is. Fiberglass panels that are 50 years old are going to flex. I also didn’t feel comfortable starting the engine while on jack stands, and being a manual transmission, it would require the clutch pedal being pushed in.