1980 Power Brake Booster replacement
Removing the drivers seat is a must.
Remove the master cylinder WITHOUT disconnecting the fluid lines. Set it aside, it wont hurt the lines just be careful not to kink them.
Remove the a/c duct under the drivers side- no fasteners , it snaps in place.
The 4 bolts holding the booster in place under the dash are size 15 mm. That alone will save you one contorted trip under the dash.
You'll need a swivel joint, a 12 inch extension and a 3 in extension and the 15 mm deep well socket- all 3/8 inch drive
There are 5 (FIVE) nuts to remove. There is one nut holding the main wiring harness bracket, hiding one of the main 4 mounting bolts. (drivers side bottom bolt)
DO NOT LOSE THESE 5 NUTS . They arent in stock at my local hardware store.
Removing the clevis pen that connects the brake pedal to the booster arm is simple, reinstalling I used a NEEDLE NOSE VICE GRIP PLIERS (small) to place the retaining clip back on the clevis pen. Got it first attempt.
Replacing with the new booster was just the steps reversed. Install the booster loosely until you have the clevis pen in place, then tighten the 4 mounting nuts, then the 5th nut with the wiring harness support tab.
You're going to contort your body in several ways, but its doable.
Total time for me was just shy of 5 hours over 2 days .
The new booster came from O'riellys Auto parts delivered in 2 days for $120 plus a $25 core deposit.
Hope this helps someone.





No clutch pedal and linkage in the way on a Automatic.
As for the 78 procedure I am not familiar with that year model but I dont see how it would change things , especially if your 78 is an auto trans. As mentioned in this thread earlier it may be more difficult if its a manual 4 speed trans with an additional pedal in the way. From memory the 78 is basically the same car as the 80- drivers compartment wise.
Good luck, if I can help shoot me a PM.
Last edited by mikepss; Mar 1, 2023 at 09:59 AM.










