Body mounts for the millionth time
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 176
Likes: 44
Body mounts for the millionth time
I've done a stupid. I restored the car completely, waiting to do #4 body mount until I had the mental fortitude. Now I have to do all eight.
So, I was quote $7,000. I guess I have to put in some sweat equity.
Do I actually have to remove the body? What should I remove if I'm only doing one side at a time? Should I leave it on the hoist or put it on stands?
I'm a little nervous, but I've done every other piece on this car, so it's possible.
So, I was quote $7,000. I guess I have to put in some sweat equity.
Do I actually have to remove the body? What should I remove if I'm only doing one side at a time? Should I leave it on the hoist or put it on stands?
I'm a little nervous, but I've done every other piece on this car, so it's possible.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,541
Likes: 1,975
From: Temple Terrace Florida
Seven Gs to replace body mounts? Wow. You could replace them one side at a time or you could jack the body off the frame and do them all at once. What year is your car? I would opt for jacking the body off the frame and cleaning up and inspecting the top of the frame. While you are at it, consider replacing the fuel line(s) and maybe the differential rubber mounts, now would be the time. The hardest part of the job is disconnecting and reconnecting all the components. Good luck. Jerry
Old Pro Solo Guy
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 8,095
Likes: 4,449
From: Marlton NJ
Getting the eight bolts out can be the worst of it. It just depends. They may simply unscrew... or not.
You could get that done long before the actual "lift" Hint: Soak them a lot in PB Blaster!!!!! Back-n-forth...coax them loose...try not to snap one off.
There are body lift checklists floating around here for everything you need to check and disconnect. It's not that bad, besides those *** bolts.
I spent a week on those, and ground two out.
You can lift it on the garage floor, just a few inches, and do the mounts.
Yes you can do one side at a time. But that really does not change very much.
Anything above that is up to you.
Guys here have used floor jacks, 2x4s, 6x6s, etc. all the way up to a 4 post hoist and full body lift off.
You could get that done long before the actual "lift" Hint: Soak them a lot in PB Blaster!!!!! Back-n-forth...coax them loose...try not to snap one off.
There are body lift checklists floating around here for everything you need to check and disconnect. It's not that bad, besides those *** bolts.
I spent a week on those, and ground two out.
You can lift it on the garage floor, just a few inches, and do the mounts.
Yes you can do one side at a time. But that really does not change very much.
Anything above that is up to you.
Guys here have used floor jacks, 2x4s, 6x6s, etc. all the way up to a 4 post hoist and full body lift off.
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 76
Likes: 23
Did mine on my 80 model using a floor jack under the rockers with a 2X4 running longways. All 8 of the bolts came loose but I had sprayed them with PB Blaster every day for a week before I attempted to remove them. Find the thread for instructions, bc other things need to be disconnected . like rear bumper, steering shaft at rag joint or steering box, nose piece. It wasn't a hard job just took some time. No way in hell Id pay $7K for that.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 1,159
Likes: 492
Indeed. I went through a frame off last year (to replace old frame with entire rebuilt chassis), and with excellent guidance from other members, including Leigh1322. So with that process it was a no brainer to replace the old body mounts (that were falling apart anyway) with new ones. You aren't doing a full frame off, though - just lifting enough to replace the mounts (and shims while you're at it - they come with the mount kit), but that doesn't mean the process is easy.
$7K is crazy, but it is a lot of work, and as Leigh already mentioned, you will likely be cutting body bolts that are rusted beyond use, which is a PITA. I had to cut away #4 bolts on both sides with a die grinder, and #3 bolts on each side with a dremel because of the very tight confines - the rear of the frame tends to collect the most water, and subsequent corrosion. #1 and #2 bolts on both sides came off easily.
This youboob video will give you an idea as to what is involved. Just make sure you count the shims at each mount so that you can properly re-shim when you put the body back down.
$7K is crazy, but it is a lot of work, and as Leigh already mentioned, you will likely be cutting body bolts that are rusted beyond use, which is a PITA. I had to cut away #4 bolts on both sides with a die grinder, and #3 bolts on each side with a dremel because of the very tight confines - the rear of the frame tends to collect the most water, and subsequent corrosion. #1 and #2 bolts on both sides came off easily.
This youboob video will give you an idea as to what is involved. Just make sure you count the shims at each mount so that you can properly re-shim when you put the body back down.
Last edited by Corvette-ZL1; Mar 22, 2023 at 05:20 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,817
Likes: 470
From: Wichita Kansas
Indeed. I went through a frame off last year (to replace old frame with entire rebuilt chassis), and with excellent guidance from other members, including Leigh1322. So with that process it was a no brainer to replace the old body mounts (that were falling apart anyway) with new ones. You aren't doing a full frame off, though - just lifting enough to replace the mounts (and shims while you're at it - they come with the mount kit), but that doesn't mean the process is easy.
$7K is crazy, but it is a lot of work, and as Leigh already mentioned, you will likely be cutting body bolts that are rusted beyond use, which is a PITA. I had to cut away #4 bolts on both sides with a die grinder, and #3 bolts on each side with a dremel because of the very tight confines - the rear of the frame tends to collect the most water, and subsequent corrosion. #1 and #2 bolts on both sides came off easily.
This youboob video will give you an idea as to what is involved. Just make sure you count the shims at each mount so that you can properly re-shim when you put the body back down.
$7K is crazy, but it is a lot of work, and as Leigh already mentioned, you will likely be cutting body bolts that are rusted beyond use, which is a PITA. I had to cut away #4 bolts on both sides with a die grinder, and #3 bolts on each side with a dremel because of the very tight confines - the rear of the frame tends to collect the most water, and subsequent corrosion. #1 and #2 bolts on both sides came off easily.
This youboob video will give you an idea as to what is involved. Just make sure you count the shims at each mount so that you can properly re-shim when you put the body back down.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,240
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From: Watkinsville, GA and Glen Cove, NY
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 76
Likes: 23
Highway Man
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 445
Likes: 188
From: Ca
If the mount bolt areas are a bit rusty and if some had shims, the shims might be dust now. The shims help align door gaps and such. Be prepared to play around with shims by adding, torquing the bolt, checking and doing it all over again many times to get it just right…
cheers,
Richard
cheers,
Richard
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 140
Likes: 70
From: North Texas
I’m looking at doing this as well. Mounts 1, 3 and 4 on my car look pretty good but both number two mounts are completely shot.
my question is , how the heck do you get your knocker loose juice onto the threaded parts of any of the mount bolts? Number 1 I can see but the others are all hidden in the frame so that all I can see is the bolt head on top and spraying that isn’t going to get any juice on the nut and threads.
if anyone has any checklists or procedures they’ve used for this job I for one would be eternally grateful for a link. I’m dreading this job but knowing what a mess my #2 mounts are is bugging me enough that my ocd is overwhelming my ability to pretend I didn’t see them.
my question is , how the heck do you get your knocker loose juice onto the threaded parts of any of the mount bolts? Number 1 I can see but the others are all hidden in the frame so that all I can see is the bolt head on top and spraying that isn’t going to get any juice on the nut and threads.
if anyone has any checklists or procedures they’ve used for this job I for one would be eternally grateful for a link. I’m dreading this job but knowing what a mess my #2 mounts are is bugging me enough that my ocd is overwhelming my ability to pretend I didn’t see them.
