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I am in the middle of replacing all of the front end ball joints and bushings. All was going well until I started having issues with the lower A arm ball joint. The top joint popped loose with no problems but after beating the crap out of the lower one not to mention using a pickle fortk then buying a ball joint remover from Harbor Freight it is still a no go. I even used a heat gun hoping it would help and of course some Master Blaster..
I had the top ball joint loose with the nut not completely off so it would not fall down but with all the banging and clanging on the lower joint it fell of so now I have a real mess. My inclination is to just grind the thing in two and then I can drive it out on the bench. 3hrs of sweat and blood not too much fun.
Absolute worst case, take off the caliper and rotor, disconnect the tie rod and then unbolt the ball joint from the lower control arm. Take the spindle to our friendly machine shop, who should be able to pop it loose with a PRESS.
FWIW, you might have better luck with the upper joint connected. The bumper will stop the spindle from dropping while there is still downward force from the coil spring. THEN try pickle fork beating on the lower ball joint. The spring force might help pop it loose. Thats how I usually wind up popping lower ball joints on these cars.
Just went through this this week on my 69..both sides. Pickle fork did nothing. Unbolted ball joints from a arm....sprayed some PB over a couple days. Put spindle in a vise and the BFH convinced the first one. Other side needed a Lil warming to help influence...but she dropped too. So in summary ..PB...patience. BFH...and moderate use of heat if needed. Neat thing is when they pop..they pop!
This tool. I purchased this off a Mac Tools truck years ago. Ball joint press tool. ***** all over a pickle fork.
This works! Tighten it up till the veins in your forehead pop. Then rap the end with a BFH. BANG!
You need a fire ax......works everytime......just clean as much grease as possible off of it before going to town.......maybe borrow one from somebody......MAPP gas will not get it hot enough.......
A carefully placed air hammer with a point tip on the stud can knock it through sometimes too....unthread the nut to leave a "cup" at the top so the air hammer tip fly off the side.....
That ball joint press above is a wicked dude too.....I think OTC has them a lot cheaper than MAC....(Or any tool truck for that matter).
I find 2 decent sized hammers and hitting both sides at the same time pops tapered joints apart way easier than just hitting on one side. Well, it takes more co-ordination but less hammering effort.
I borrowed a forged ball joint separator from Auto zone and it took me less than a minute to pop the sucker out. It had a larger opening and overall heavier frame. I will keep the smaller one for other areas as needed. If I had done better research I would not have spent all that frustration.
This tool. I purchased this off a Mac Tools truck years ago. Ball joint press tool. ***** all over a pickle fork.
This works! Tighten it up till the veins in your forehead pop. Then rap the end with a BFH. BANG!
i got that same MAC puller and it is great, no more struggling with pitman arms, and when they go flying the puller stays with it
Yup works great on Pitman arms. Just did my steering gear box a couple months ago. Works on idler arm and tie rod ends as well with a spacer on the end of the pusher bolt.
Also great to pull pinion gears on older Harley's which are also on a tapper.
And I do care if I wreck the boots. Sometimes your popping ball joints to do other front end work. Not just to replace them.
The Harbor Freight seperator is weak. If you don't have the clearance for that Mac tool, the best one I've used is this hydraulic OEM. You spin the bottom to preload it, then turn the small bolt on top--that is the oil filled part. 8 tons of pressure it advertises.
I think it was $85 on Amazon or thereabouts.
lower ball joint stuck
