Realized the darn thing was broken at the track last saturday. I will be taking the car to the auto hobby shop on Pearl harbor Saturday and putting the 8 incher i got from the hot rod shop in. I have don some reading and talked to some people and they say that if i mark the old one and make sure to slip it on over the key then i should have no problem. However, the forum members have way more total years experience doing this crap then anyone i know!
Next question, anyone ever heard of or used World cylinder heads? They have some cast iron ones at the same hotrod shop with the 64cc chambers. R these any good?

 

I have 220cc World Heads on my car....However you should wait till you can do a cam swap with headers before installing large heads such as these....With these heads....you can get large volume of air in....you will have restrictions trying to get it out......You have to make it a package deal or these heads won't help you much with the stock set up. :seeya Cappy

 

Just make sure the 0 mark is in the same place in relation to the keyway as the old one. Later model dampers used different timing tab locations. Also, if the new damper isn't fully degreed, and you have access to a degree wheel, it's the perfect time to cut a new mark at 38 btdc on it. That way, you can check total timing without the need for a timing tape.

 

Use a puller to remove old one, and use the special tool, or make one out of 7/16" NF bolt (if I remember correctly, maybe it's 9/16"?) to install new balancer. Use antiseeze on the the inside of balancer and crankshaft snout, and on the NEW Harmonic Balancer bolt.....................

Do NOT use a hammer to install balancer, also before removal of old balancer, note/mark it's location on crankshaft (how far it is on), so you know when you've fully installed the new one.

 

Use a proper puller to remove ... use an install tool to replace. Small Block Chevy crank snout thread is 7/16"-20 ... BBC is 1/2"-20. Never pry on the balancer ... it will cause the bonding rubber between outer ring & inner hub to break free (bad) ... and it's likely you'll end up denting the timing cover. If ... repeat if you're replacing a smaller (ie 6 3/4") balancer with a larger 8" ... you'll probably need to change the timing tab on timing cover ... they're different for different sizes of balancers. Balancer R&R is excellent opportunity to replace timing cover seal/gasket ... you'll seldom get better access.

Edit: Don't know BBC specs, but SBC harmonic balancer/damper timing mark locations are:

1968 & earlier timing mark is 2° before keyway center line.

1969 & later timing mark is 10° before keyway center line.



[Modified by jackson, 11:10 AM 1/15/2003]

 

With the balancer off, your 1/3 of the way to doing a cam change. I wonder how well those 2-piece timing chain covers seal. If they seal well, you might want to replace the stock timing chain cover with the 2-piece so that when cam-swap time comes, you don't have to take the balancer off again. Plus I don't think the 77 comes with the larger 8" balancer, so the stock timing tab welded to the stock timing chain cover won't work. So getting an aftermarket timing chain cover/timing tab is one solution to make the 8"er work.

Anyway, after everything is installed and pulleys put back on, get your Liquid Paper and mark the location of TDC on your crankshaft pulley. That will provide you with a quick way to determine if your balancer slips in the future. Meaning, if the liquid paper mark no longer matches the TDC mark on the balancer, then the balancer slipped.

I think your Vette is trying to tell you that it wants a cam change, NOW. :D

 

Just found a place on the island that has performance cams in stock. So, i have, in the time span of 2 days found both iron heads and performance cams on oahu. I cant see the timing chain? Is it behind were the balancer goes?Anyway, I'm gonna go ahead ands try to put the new balancer so as at least have the car to drive, then the cam then headers,then iron heads.

 

Yes, the timing chain is hidden by the cover behind the balancer. If you didn't get the balancer yet, it would be less complicated to throw on an 6 3/4" one instead of the 8" one.

FYI, I bought World Product Sportsman IIs locally at mainland sale price. Good heads.

 

:iagree: And here's a suggestion if you want to play around with timing and ignition curves. If the balancer doesn't have timing marks engraved on it get a Pro Form balancer cover. It bolts over the balancer and has timing marks up to 60 degrees. It makes setting up a curve real easy and you won't have to play around with timing tapes or timing lights with advance controls on them. You just read it right off the balancer. You can see the one I installed in my sig pic. I also put a Tavia adjustable pointer to make reading the marks easier. Just a suggestion.

 

Hello Sharky,
Recommend a Street Dampner by Fluidampner ~$160 mail order Summit and the "Hobby Shop" should have the proper tool (or just rent one). Thier completely sealed and no rubber to rot or fail - use them engine after engine. You'll need to paint it though or pay ~$250 for SFI-approved unit.
Also buy or borrow a Top Dead Center stop tool. This will allow you to verify and/or adjust your timing tab is centered on 0 degrees. Good experince and you'll know your timing is corrected for any manufactur/machining errors.
I just replaced my camshaft and it required a ton of work. Unless your ready to remove and replace your radiator, A/C condenser, water pump, timing cover, drop steering linkage and remove oil pan, remove and replace carb and intake manifold while replacing all deterioated parts and wiring you discover in the process - DON"T Until Your Ready!
I really liked the World Products S/R Torquer large valve heads but had them pocket ported first. I feel they'r better than any stock heads and will work well with nearly any engine combination - reasonable price too. 67cc chambers with large 2.02 valves are the ticket.
Also, the timing chain is behind the timing gear cover which is behind the harmonic dampner and the water pump. Plently of good books on the small block chevy so read up first.
Good Luck :eek:

 

If the condition or age of timing chain-gear set is not known ... maybe you should change it when you R&R damper & renew the TC gasket-seal ... TC-gear sets are relatively cheap ... again ... you'll seldom get better access.