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I’m getting the wood to build the body dolly for my 73 Coupe.
I’m using Alan71’s body dolly plan and dimensions.
I know many have used Alan’s plans with great success.
I’m a little OCD and will build it exactly as the plans call for.
1. Has anyone had any issues with the body fitment on the dolly when it is made to Alan’s measurements?
2. Does the dolly support the front clip well enough, or did you add something to the front of the dolly to help support the front clip?
3. Alan uses 2”x 3”s for uprights, would there be any issues using 2”x 4”s for uprights?
Thanks, Greg
Looking though some older threads, I found this method where no uprights were used and the body sits on several 2”x 4”s, which looks easier and stronger to support the body.
Have any of you used this method.
I'll post the pictures I have but it has been so long I can't add any clarification to what I did. I know I took extra care at the front and included a spreader bar sort of arrangement and maybe some ad hoc adjustments at the time. I wish I had a picture of the dolly without the body. on, but I don't. One thing I remember is my wheels were a bit too small to maneuver over my gravel parking so make sure your wheels are big enough. I assume those pictures are Alan's and those wheels look great. As far as 2x3 vs 2x4, the only place you might get into trouble is at the rear.. I remember discussion about keeping track of the factory shims you remove. I failed at that but it didn't seem to matter much. Keep your woodworking tools handy is all I can suggest.
4"X4" Post shaveed. to fit the channel and a couple of 2"X 4" in front I extendedd the rear to catch the #4 mounts.
You could run 2- 2"x 4" across the front to have two 2"'x4" risers under the fender wells for the front. Just for giggles run a strap from the front window frame to the radiator frame if its in place.
Ignatz, did you have the radiator support removed In that picture?
Yes it is out. I had a strap to support the front end in place but I can't remember the sequence of events for you as to how I did the swap with the front supports. And I can't tell here what that strap is attached to but it may be my temporary spreader. That makes the most sense and when I enlarge the picture, it looks like what I did. I know I used to be smart, now, who knows?
One thing worth mentioning (which may not affect you), is that my muffler guy refused to build me a new system until he had the chassis with the body in place. That necessitated putting the body on temporarily to take it to the shop.
I would think any convenient hole in the Fiberglass. See if this helps
Or hire some random guy to hold things up
ignatz, was your corvette ever struck in the front ? As the front rivets are the same as mine and Alan71' seemed to think they should be blind rivets (if thats what they are called). Curious.
I’m taking it to the body/paint shop with the body on the frame,
They’ll pull the body, place it on the dolly and I’ll take the chassis home so I can start working on it.
Once I’m done with the chassis, I’ll take it back to the painter so they can finish their work.
If the plan changes and I lift it off myself and I’ll either use my 2 ton engine hoist with the body lift straps I purchased, or I’ll use my two floor jacks and jack the body up off the chassis using blocks, 4x4’s and jackstands.
ignatz, was your corvette ever struck in the front ? As the front rivets are the same as mine and Alan71' seemed to think they should be blind rivets (if thats what they are called). Curious.
That is a replacement surround from a collision. The body shop told me it was a NOS surround and it took them a while to locate one. Besides the rivets in front, whatever the supplier (GM?) did also fixed the rivets under the fiberglass near my hand. There's no indication there's anything under there.
I made mine almost exactly like David Howards in post#2, the burgandy 74 vert. Long enough to reach the front headlight metal hood reinforcement support bar, and stopped just past #4 body mount in the back. I used a couple layers of 2*3s to sit the birdcage on. Felt more secure to me. I let the front nose hang briefly without the lift strap and it only sagged a little. But it would oscillate up & down a whole inch if I bumped it. So ran a 2*3 vertical to that metal support just in front of the hood opening behind the headlights. I'll look for some pics for you.
Looking though some older threads, I found this method where no uprights were used and the body sits on several 2”x 4”s, which looks easier and stronger to support the body.
Have any of you used this method.
Originally Posted by leigh1322
I made mine almost exactly like David Howards in post#2, the burgandy 74 vert. Long enough to reach the front headlight metal hood reinforcement support bar, and stopped just past #4 body mount in the back. I used a couple layers of 2*3s to sit the birdcage on. Felt more secure to me. I let the front nose hang briefly without the lift strap and it only sagged a little. But it would oscillate up & down a whole inch if I bumped it. So ran a 2*3 vertical to that metal support just in front of the hood opening behind the headlights. I'll look for some pics for you.
Hi Leigh,
I agree!
Sitting the bird cage on solid 2x3’s seems much more sturdy.
It’s going to be at the painters shop for a while and this plan will be better for when they are rolling it around their shop.
Some pictures would be great.
Last edited by OldCarBum; Apr 27, 2023 at 12:27 AM.
I stopped the rear of the body dolly right at the #4 mount. Then I could screw a 2x3 to the back of the dolly, and go straight up to the #4 mount. I don't know if it needs this one, but mine has been sitting like this for 2+years and it made me feel better!
These are the 2x3s under the birdcage. This is underhood from the inside of the empty engine compartment, aimed at the #2 mount. Since Alan's body dolly was designed to bolt uprights on the outside of the frame, this almost did not work. It was almost too narrow. See how the inner edges of the 2x3s are flush with the frame? It would have fit better if the frame was 2" wider on each side. It is not in the middle of the birdcage "channel", it is on the very inside edge. I probably screwed then down, not nailed, easier to adjust.
Here is the front vertical support from inside the empty engine compartment. I used 1x3 it weighed so little. It would hold itself up with no support but I was afraid of sag. It would oscillate 1" if you bumped it. Nervewracking. I lifted it an inch and screwed in the support. Notice my frame wound up a little too long for this and I had to add in another crossmember just to hold this support. I can get you a measurement if you want to get it right the first time. Mine is definately longer than Alan's plans. I just don't remeber how much. This support goes straight up to the metal headlight support bar at the edge of the hood.
I am sure there are a hundred other ways to do this, but it worked for me. 90% of the weight is on the 2x3s between the doors. Hardly any weight on the two slender vertical supports on the two ends. But I would be perfectly comfortable trailering this to the paint shop just like this.
You may notice that David's version has 2 locked straight wheels on the front and 2 pivots, where I have 4 pivots. His is moveable by one guy but takes a big swing to turn it. Mine is more manuverable but steers like a drunken sailor, best with 2 pushers. One just steers.
I guess-timated the bare body weighs just 450 lbs. I'll figure out how to weigh it for sure some day.
Last edited by leigh1322; Apr 27, 2023 at 04:56 PM.
Sure. Easy. And glad to help.
Mine is just a little bit too long, so I added the second crossmember in the front.
If you make yours at 139-1/2" outside to outside, front to back, you will not have to add that extra crossmember, and you can mount your two end vertical supports like I did.
Alan71’s Body Dolly Build
