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Hello, I searched the forums first before this posting but still can't find the fix to my problem. 20 or so years ago I bought a 72 that had a 73 hood on it. The wipers worked fine and apparently the wiper door cut off switch was removed. It had the original 72 wiper motor in it. I ended up restoring it- wiper door, original hood but did not undertake the wiper door actuator/vacuum system as I was going to put install a push rod solenoid. The wipers still worked fine for years although I had to raise the wiper door manually. Now the wipers don't work. As I found out, I still get the click sound when I turn the switch on and the fuse is fine. I deducted the wiper motor was bad and got a new one. All installed and still a click but no motor action- ugh. I put the same plugs back in the motor. The rebuilt wiper motor from Zip Corvette has a red (power?) wire coming out of it but that was to go the the wiper door function from what I can tell. I did put + power on that wire anyhow and still nothing. Any help would be appreciated. thanks Paul in Ohio
I don't have the answer, and mine doesn't work either...but in preparing to figure mine out, I did find this video which I'm hoping will help me...maybe it will help you?
That red wire to the motor casing is main power feed that would be cut by the wiper door switch or over ride **** under the dash. It needs a 12v feed to it
The "click" you hear, where is it coming from? the console or the wiper motor?
M
Part of the issue I think is that I am not using the wiper .door cut off as the owner before me got rid of it, Something must have come disconnected as it worked fine before. It is impossible to trace the wiring though the firewall with out some major work
Part of the issue I think is that I am not using the wiper .door cut off as the owner before me got rid of it, Something must have come disconnected as it worked fine before. It is impossible to trace the wiring though the firewall with out some major work
All the wiper door switch did was cut power to the motor until the door was open. Connecting 12v to the motor red wire solves that (constant power)
M
The switch under the column did the same thing as the wiper door switch, cuts the main power to the motor. You said you bypassed the wiper door switch and ran power directly to the motor, Did you use the original power wire?
If so, check the switch under the steering column and make sure it is on and allowing power through it (unswitched)
If not then that switch is completely out of the circuit and doesn't matter
Also remember the wiper switch itself must be grounded, it doesn't work of that panel is just hanging from the dash (but since you said it used to work and now doesn't I'll guess something else but to test make sure the switch is grounded)
M
Also remember the wiper switch itself must be grounded, it doesn't work of that panel is just hanging from the dash (but since you said it used to work and now doesn't I'll guess something else but to test make sure the switch is grounded)
M
Additionally, the switch grounds itself through the switch body to the metal gauge surround. If this gauge trim is broken at the narrow part just above the gauge cluster - as they frequently are - the switch's ground can be lost.
Sucess!! The motor itself wasn't grounded because the replacement ones don't have a male ground connector. I grounded it from a mounting screw directly to the block. Secondly, the red wire out of the motor was not getting constant/unswitched power. Thanks for all the help everyone!! Paul
Sucess!! The motor itself wasn't grounded because the replacement ones don't have a male ground connector. I grounded it from a mounting screw directly to the block. Secondly, the red wire out of the motor was not getting constant/unswitchedpower. Thanks for all the help everyone!! Paul
Paul,
If I'm reading this correctly the override and limit switches have been removed?
IMO, you should change that consent 12vdc source to a switched source, like the yellow wire at the 3 wire connector.
Having a consent 12vdc at the wiper motor on that red wire is just setting the stage for a battery drain condition...
Originally, when the 2 switches were present the override switch N/C (normally closed) was sending a consent 12vdc to the wiper doors limit switch N/O.
When the wiper door opened the N/O switch closed, sending power to the wiper motor through that red wire (a switched power source at the red wire) ...
Again, JMO...
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