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REM is good for cutting down on friction and heat generation.
Understand that will help, but after enough miles will this not happen anyways. My original diff now has 220k km and only items replaced are the side yokes.
as for my new diff I am expecting it to run hot until the gears start to wear a bit, or will good friction modifiers prevent this from happening at all.
So step 1 I want to measure the temps to see if I should add a cooler for track days. Normally where I drive a hot day is 25c (77) but we are now experencing 30-33c (86-92) spring days.
I have 2 diff's
1. 3.08 factory original
2. 3.36 new diff
This was selected based on Engine RPM at end of straights at my local track. 3.55 hits red line before end of straight, 3.73 changed from 2&3rd gear to 3&4th and low RPM at end of straight.
I have 2 diff's
1. 3.08 factory original
2. 3.36 new diff
This was selected based on Engine RPM at end of straights at my local track. 3.55 hits red line before end of straight, 3.73 changed from 2&3rd gear to 3&4th and low RPM at end of straight.
You do understand that lower numerical number differentials run cooler? How much power you are putting to it makes a big difference. My advice is when you pull into the pits after a session of lots of hot laps, get out the temp gun to get the hottest point on the case. I found that my 4.11 ran cooler with 75W-140 syn power. But generally I never got much over 245 degrees. I debated on a manual tranny and diff cooler like this vette I used to work on.
I always wanted to weld up the centered jacking point on my Vette. Gary R. also pointed out that this is NOT plumed correctly. It should spray from the side of the cover aimed at the ring gear. This is Vic Edelbrocks old vette back when he was still racing and it does have a nice pusher fan setup through the radiator.
I tried to find max temp for Valvoline full synthetic 75W-140 and I came up with this. They conducted tests on oil/component durability. They found components should not be operated at consistent temperatures above 250F. Intermittent operations to 300F do not harm the components or oils (synthetics).
Kind of like the old Mobil One commercial heating the synthetic in a frying pan to something like 280F before it started to change color and smoke.
My 245 was on a 105 degree day last spring race in Vegas before the summer heat shut down on the long road course. @30 minute sprint race sessions. I had a cooled air helmet and was thinking that I needed to invest in a full cool suite before getting a diff cooler! The track temp was almost 140 and probably over 120 inside my hot vette waring a fire suit, gloves and boots.
This drain plug is the best mod you can do and the second best is polishing out the heavy duty rear diff cover. Something Gary told me to do. The HD diff covers are so robust compared to a OEM.
Just getting started making my inside cover look like a mirror.
I always wanted to weld up the centered jacking point on my Vette. Gary R. also pointed out that this is NOT plumed correctly. It should spray from the side of the cover aimed at the ring gear. This is Vic Edelbrocks old vette back when he was still racing and it does have a nice pusher fan setup through the radiator.
Drain added same location as yours.
Fill entry here. Which looks like entry is direct at the gears.
They also added the wire support since I have had bolts come loose and drop into the diff. ( not sure if this was a good idea ) but I did read about others having similar problems.
This drain plug is the best mod you can do and the second best is polishing out the heavy duty rear diff cover. Something Gary told me to do. The HD diff covers are so robust compared to a OEM.
Just getting started making my inside cover look like a mirror.
I would think "Rough, dark, and matte surfaces demonstrate the highest absorption / cooling potential" more surface area to absorb and radiate ????
This drain plug is the best mod you can do and the second best is polishing out the heavy duty rear diff cover. Something Gary told me to do. The HD diff covers are so robust compared to a OEM.
Just getting started making my inside cover look like a mirror.
Originally Posted by cagotzmann
I would think "Rough, dark, and matte surfaces demonstrate the highest absorption / cooling potential" more surface area to absorb and radiate ????
I was wondering about that too. @gkull, can you explain the reasoning behind this, or point to an online reference? Does it reduce frothing of the oil or something?
You have an external oil cooler, and even if you didn't, I can't imagine it helps with that in any measurable way. Just bolting on some CPU cooling fins to the outside of the cover would seem to have a much larger effect.
Last edited by Bikespace; May 11, 2023 at 06:29 PM.
I was wondering about that too. @gkull, can you explain the reasoning behind this, or point to an online reference? Does it reduce frothing of the oil or something?
You have an external oil cooler, and even if you didn't, I can't imagine it helps with that in any measurable way. Just bolting on some CPU cooling fins to the outside of the cover would seem to have a much larger effect.
Oil drain back faster than a rough surface. Same idea as polished cam valley on a v-8 and like pistons inside and rods coated with oil repellant surfaces. My Motown block has all kinds of ideas to prevent windage loss including the blocked off cam valley and vent tubes. Steel sleeved lifter bores. lots of little things add up!
I had the Wiseco custom pistons cut for up to 2.18 intake valves and .800 lift