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Hi everyone,
Since I have owned my 73 the parking brake has never worked. I took it to a garage and they said that the cable was tightened as much as it can go. I have to have it inspected and need this to be fixed. I am wondering if I need to order a new cable or the whole assembly? Thanks in advance!
PS: the garage I'm taking it to is not really specialized in old cars that's why I'm ordering and it takes a long time to get here in Norway.
The hardware was steel and rusted tight, seizing up the moving parts. The springs break. Then the cable is stretched typically trying to adjust them. You need to install a new SS hardware kit, shoes and cable. Check the rotor hat ID for grooves so you might need a rotor or two. With limited experience with local shops in your area if you can learn and do the work you will be better off. This is doable at home with some basic tools and patience.
The hardware was steel and rusted tight, seizing up the moving parts. The springs break. Then the cable is stretched typically trying to adjust them. You need to install a new SS hardware kit, shoes and cable. Check the rotor hat ID for grooves so you might need a rotor or two. With limited experience with local shops in your area if you can learn and do the work you will be better off. This is doable at home with some basic tools and patience.
I don't have a lift so this will be impossible for me to do, that's why I choose to have it done at a shop. The owner of the shop has had multiple old cars himself so i trust that he will get it done in a safe matter. So what you recommend is that I order a full kit, including a new cable and all the hardware. I will check the rotor, do you know where on the car that is located?
Hi everyone,
Since I have owned my 73 the parking brake has never worked. I took it to a garage and they said that the cable was tightened as much as it can go. I have to have it inspected and need this to be fixed. I am wondering if I need to order a new cable or the whole assembly? Thanks in advance!
PS: the garage I'm taking it to is not really specialized in old cars that's why I'm ordering and it takes a long time to get here in Norway.
Not to disparage the shop you use but perhaps they aren't familiar with how Corvette parking brakes can be adjusted besides with the cable. Best advice I have is to get the Chassis Service Manual for your year Corvette. It was the official Chevrolet publication for service departments and will have all of the procedures for adjusting and replacing all sorts of components.
This is a fairly straightforward job and only requires jacking and supporting the car - no lift needed.
Not to disparage the shop you use but perhaps they aren't familiar with how Corvette parking brakes can be adjusted besides with the cable. Best advice I have is to get the Chassis Service Manual for your year Corvette. It was the official Chevrolet publication for service departments and will have all of the procedures for adjusting and replacing all sorts of components.
This is a fairly straightforward job and only requires jacking and supporting the car - no lift needed.
Thank you, I have ordered new hardware, the first shop I took it to was specialized in spesificaly C3 Corvettes. My local shop isn't.
I have 2 manuals, the first one is from Haynes and the other one is from 74 I think, do you think I can get far enough with that?
Someone also linked an article from Zip Corvette with a how to do this.
Best to make as complete a diagnosis as possible before ordering any parts. As mentioned above, rusting components inside the rotor are common problem on these cars. The adjustment might be stuck from the rust, but I’d try adjusting it first at the e-brake shoe adjusting wheel. The cable might still be good. If the shop you took it to didn’t know that you might be paying them to replace and it still won’t work. You might need to do some extra reading, watch a few online videos and get more tools; if you don’t know where the rotor is. Since parts sometimes take awhile to arrive it can take much longer than first estimated to finish. You’ll find other things to do, things will break, some parts won’t want to come apart, and you’ll be missing at least one tool. I agree with getting the year specific factory shop manual. The shop obviously doesn’t have one. The estimated labor time is a major problem with the shop. If they run into a delay with your car on a lift they’ll need to get it rolling again and store it while waiting for parts. Most shops don’t have the indoor space for that unless they shuffle cars around every day.
Charlie
Thank you, I have ordered new hardware, the first shop I took it to was specialized in spesificaly C3 Cor
vettes. My local shop isn't.
I have 2 manuals, the first one is from Haynes and the other one is from 74 I think, do you think I can get far enough with that?
Someone also linked an article from Zip Corvette with a how to do this.
The Haynes is OK, but the Chevrolet service manual is better as it's not generalized to cover a multitude of years and components. That said, however, the brakes are 99% the same from 1965 to 1982, so you can certainly use the '74 or the Haynes manuals on this and be just fine. Just to be on the same page, does you '74 manual look like this?
Loosen cable, adjust brakes at the star wheels inside the rotors. Then readjust cable. If the star wheel adjusters won't turn. Or turn enough, then order a complete stainless parking brake kit.
you won't need a lift. But a couple jackstands can help.
I made a youtube video about 4 years ago, when I rebuilt my parking brakes.
It may be too late to actually help with this problem, but it may help someone. It has lots of views and I've received many notes of thanks.
Here is the link. you may have to copy it and paste it in the browser of your choice.
I made a youtube video about 4 years ago, when I rebuilt my parking brakes.
It may be too late to actually help with this problem, but it may help someone. It has lots of views and I've received many notes of thanks.
Here is the link. you may have to copy it and paste it in the browser of your choice.
What a great video. Wish I'd watched it before rebuilding mine. Have done plenty similar in the past but the C3 seemed to fight me the most. Definitely will use your tips next time.
One thing not mentioned in parking brake installation is the condition of the SS parts out of the bag. Sometimes there is no problem, but I always go through them and dress the pins, levers, and machine the star wheels. Why? because I don't want springs popping off or have an issue with shoes not collapsing enough and dragging on the rotor hat ID. Sometimes new rotor hat ID's are not machined wide enough. Chinese engineering or lack of QC on importers, regardless, I have had it happen with stock rotors and slotted and drilled overpriced rotors - but not since I automatically mod the parts out of the bag- regardless of where they come from.
Right after buying my 1968 C3 I noticed the parking brake was not working so I did what you did and ordered a set of the SS hardware. Very soon after getting the parts using a simple car jack I replaced both sides of the parking brakes. They have worked flawlessly for the past 30+ years after the replacement of parts and a simple adjustment. You do not need to use a car lift to do the job.
Me, Personally I would not drive any car that doesn't have a working parking brake. I had a master cylinder fail and lock-up while cruising at 65-70 mph and did not discover it until I was in the 20 mph cloverleaf exit getting off the highway. Between the four speed and the parking brake I was able to drive the few miles left to get home. Being in rush hour traffic I was glad I could stop the car safely.
Parking Brake Not Working
