Pass. rear loose?
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Pass. rear loose?
Brought my 78 in for an alignment, after 6 months of body mounts and rebuilding the rear end.. The passenger rear had movement like it was the bearing, so they refused to do the alignment. I did not have this issue last year, since I did a complete rebuild of the rear end, everything was tight, should I replace the bearing or tighten it up more? I got about a half turn on it currently, and it feels like it could go more.
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What exactly was rebuilt last time- differential, trailing arms, bushings? If you are tightening the axle nut it should be torqued to 100+ ft/lb with good bearings. If the arms were rebuilt and you now have play they need to be done again. If they have never been touched, you need to rebuild them. The axle nut should be pinned so the but never backs out, was it pinned and loose? that is bad.
If the play is in the differential axles, were they replaced or checked? What was the endplay if the diff was rebuilt?
If the play is in the differential axles, were they replaced or checked? What was the endplay if the diff was rebuilt?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 176
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What exactly was rebuilt last time- differential, trailing arms, bushings? If you are tightening the axle nut it should be torqued to 100+ ft/lb with good bearings. If the arms were rebuilt and you now have play they need to be done again. If they have never been touched, you need to rebuild them. The axle nut should be pinned so the but never backs out, was it pinned and loose? that is bad.
If the play is in the differential axles, were they replaced or checked? What was the endplay if the diff was rebuilt?
If the play is in the differential axles, were they replaced or checked? What was the endplay if the diff was rebuilt?
The trailing arms were done in 2021, maybe 1100km on the car since doing them, not sure if the bad stub shafts prematurely wore them out, I've since removed the nut from the back and am in the process of removing the spindle. I think the outside bearing or race has failed. We have 1" of movement at 12 and 6 of the wheel.
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Pulled the spindle, the spacer washer was too large after we removed it, and not allowing the inner bearing to seat.
It was fine before doing the stub shafts, maybe they were pushing the bearing toward the outside of the car, this also explains why my caliper blew out the outside pistons.
Man oh man, the things you learn on these cars.
And yes, I ordered the assembly tool.
It was fine before doing the stub shafts, maybe they were pushing the bearing toward the outside of the car, this also explains why my caliper blew out the outside pistons.
Man oh man, the things you learn on these cars.
And yes, I ordered the assembly tool.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2021
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Pulled the spindle, the spacer washer was too large after we removed it, and not allowing the inner bearing to seat.
It was fine before doing the stub shafts, maybe they were pushing the bearing toward the outside of the car, this also explains why my caliper blew out the outside pistons.
Man oh man, the things you learn on these cars.
And yes, I ordered the assembly tool.
It was fine before doing the stub shafts, maybe they were pushing the bearing toward the outside of the car, this also explains why my caliper blew out the outside pistons.
Man oh man, the things you learn on these cars.
And yes, I ordered the assembly tool.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,156
Likes: 3,965
From: Connecticut, USA
Based on what you say I would suspect the initial install and setup was wrong.
The inner axles will not change outer bearing endplay. Not trying to point fingers here, just saying what I think the problem is. The book spec of 001-008 endplay might as well be 400 miles. At 003" the axles are moving in/out by hand, but still nothing to what you found.
I have seen cheap bearings do that too, never any Timken, but I recall a cheapskate years ago. He complained about removing the arms, was too cheap to have anyone build them, bought no name chinese bearings, maybe cost $10, they lasted 100 miles and he was doing it again.
Relying on the common shim kits for a good bearing dial in is a mistake, most of the time the shims are not close to what you need. Yet, they are sold everyday.
Make sure the races are seated properly. set them up for -0- lateral play- I don't care about reaching 002" endplay since the first time you get there and stop you will have more play in the final install. When you're done, the rotor should have no rock in it at 3-9, there should be no binding, no noise, just a smooth steady rotation with runout under 003"= then it won't change even when your rebuilt axles have 050" endplay in them.
The inner axles will not change outer bearing endplay. Not trying to point fingers here, just saying what I think the problem is. The book spec of 001-008 endplay might as well be 400 miles. At 003" the axles are moving in/out by hand, but still nothing to what you found.
I have seen cheap bearings do that too, never any Timken, but I recall a cheapskate years ago. He complained about removing the arms, was too cheap to have anyone build them, bought no name chinese bearings, maybe cost $10, they lasted 100 miles and he was doing it again.
Relying on the common shim kits for a good bearing dial in is a mistake, most of the time the shims are not close to what you need. Yet, they are sold everyday.
Make sure the races are seated properly. set them up for -0- lateral play- I don't care about reaching 002" endplay since the first time you get there and stop you will have more play in the final install. When you're done, the rotor should have no rock in it at 3-9, there should be no binding, no noise, just a smooth steady rotation with runout under 003"= then it won't change even when your rebuilt axles have 050" endplay in them.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 176
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Based on what you say I would suspect the initial install and setup was wrong.
The inner axles will not change outer bearing endplay. Not trying to point fingers here, just saying what I think the problem is. The book spec of 001-008 endplay might as well be 400 miles. At 003" the axles are moving in/out by hand, but still nothing to what you found.
I have seen cheap bearings do that too, never any Timken, but I recall a cheapskate years ago. He complained about removing the arms, was too cheap to have anyone build them, bought no name chinese bearings, maybe cost $10, they lasted 100 miles and he was doing it again.
Relying on the common shim kits for a good bearing dial in is a mistake, most of the time the shims are not close to what you need. Yet, they are sold everyday.
Make sure the races are seated properly. set them up for -0- lateral play- I don't care about reaching 002" endplay since the first time you get there and stop you will have more play in the final install. When you're done, the rotor should have no rock in it at 3-9, there should be no binding, no noise, just a smooth steady rotation with runout under 003"= then it won't change even when your rebuilt axles have 050" endplay in them.
The inner axles will not change outer bearing endplay. Not trying to point fingers here, just saying what I think the problem is. The book spec of 001-008 endplay might as well be 400 miles. At 003" the axles are moving in/out by hand, but still nothing to what you found.
I have seen cheap bearings do that too, never any Timken, but I recall a cheapskate years ago. He complained about removing the arms, was too cheap to have anyone build them, bought no name chinese bearings, maybe cost $10, they lasted 100 miles and he was doing it again.
Relying on the common shim kits for a good bearing dial in is a mistake, most of the time the shims are not close to what you need. Yet, they are sold everyday.
Make sure the races are seated properly. set them up for -0- lateral play- I don't care about reaching 002" endplay since the first time you get there and stop you will have more play in the final install. When you're done, the rotor should have no rock in it at 3-9, there should be no binding, no noise, just a smooth steady rotation with runout under 003"= then it won't change even when your rebuilt axles have 050" endplay in them.
The drivers side is fine, he said he assembled it on the spindle with the nut and torqued it, but maybe it wore in weird. I do recall when I brought it in for safety the shop had to take the spindles out and screw with the ebrake, who knows if they put it back together correctly.
Anyway, I learned a lesson on this one, and next time I'll send them out, haha.
