Factory Lights
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 67
Likes: 22
Factory Lights
I have been going back and forth on sticking to factory incandescent lighting in the gauges and led strip lights. I like the look of the incandescent bulbs but do not like the grounding issues and dependability of the light bulb sockets.
I think I have finally decided to go with the incandescent bulbs but do not want to put dash back in and them not work. I had a bad headlight switch which has been replaced. Is there a way to test all of the bulbs with the dash out to make sure all of the lights are working?
As always, I appreciate any and all assistance with this.
I think I have finally decided to go with the incandescent bulbs but do not want to put dash back in and them not work. I had a bad headlight switch which has been replaced. Is there a way to test all of the bulbs with the dash out to make sure all of the lights are working?
As always, I appreciate any and all assistance with this.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 13,225
Likes: 7,823
From: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
2025 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
2022 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
Well, using a separate ground wire with a alligator clip on one end to connect to a good ground. And just a tip of bare wire on the other. You could test every socket one by one.
when I redid mine I replaced every socket with about 6 inches of wire, yet cut the old ones out at about 2 inches, making every lead about 4 inches longer. Makes install a heap easier. Also I found the original bulbs are rated at 3.8 W. I found bulbs in the local auto parts store rated at 4W. They have a slightly smaller glass globe but that doesn't matter. This increased the light output a great deal and my dimmer still functions as it should. Now I keep it about halfway as full brightness is too bright.
LED's need to be grounded as well. So switching to LED's certainly wouldn't solve anything in that regard.
but dimmable LED's not only cost heaps more but they tend to flicker when dimmed.
when I redid mine I replaced every socket with about 6 inches of wire, yet cut the old ones out at about 2 inches, making every lead about 4 inches longer. Makes install a heap easier. Also I found the original bulbs are rated at 3.8 W. I found bulbs in the local auto parts store rated at 4W. They have a slightly smaller glass globe but that doesn't matter. This increased the light output a great deal and my dimmer still functions as it should. Now I keep it about halfway as full brightness is too bright.
LED's need to be grounded as well. So switching to LED's certainly wouldn't solve anything in that regard.
but dimmable LED's not only cost heaps more but they tend to flicker when dimmed.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 8,877
Likes: 3,556
From: Fernandina Beach FL
2023 Restomod of the Year finalist
2020 C3 of the Year Winner - Modified
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 4,191
Likes: 951
From: Corpus Christi, TX
If you want em even brighter, try these
https://ceclighting.com/products/min...ntPartNum=3652
or these
https://ceclighting.com/products/min...artNum=1250X-1
I don't recommend going any brighter with incandescent bulbs. I tried 1211X bulbs in a 2003 Cobra I used to have and manged to melt the interior light and license plate light sockets bc they're plastic. Wasn't an issue on the '66 C2 bc the dash light sockets and license plate light are all metal.
https://ceclighting.com/products/min...ntPartNum=3652
or these
https://ceclighting.com/products/min...artNum=1250X-1
I don't recommend going any brighter with incandescent bulbs. I tried 1211X bulbs in a 2003 Cobra I used to have and manged to melt the interior light and license plate light sockets bc they're plastic. Wasn't an issue on the '66 C2 bc the dash light sockets and license plate light are all metal.
