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My '78 L82 is overheating. I got home the other day and found my radiator was bone dry so a leak, only there are no puddles. My first fix, when the part comes in, is the thermostat and the thermostat housing gasket b/c there is some corrosion there. It gets really hot there which could explain the lack of a puddle.
The coolant had to go somewhere. When is the last time you checked it? White smoke out the exhaust? Let's hope not. Refill. Look for a leak no matter how small. Then look for white smoke. These mid 70's Engines are known for heads that crack. I've had 2 out of 2 crack there heads.
The coolant had to go somewhere. When is the last time you checked it? White smoke out the exhaust? Let's hope not. Refill. Look for a leak no matter how small. Then look for white smoke. These mid 70's Engines are known for heads that crack. I've had 2 out of 2 crack there heads.
No white smoke. I have had it a little over a week so I'm not sure how full it was to begin with...should have checked it but I didn't.
I have refilled it and still don't see a leak.
Check your oil to see if it's muddy or looks like chocolate milk. If the coolant lose continues, pull the spark plugs to see if any look steamed cleaned. Could be a blown head gasket or a cracked head. Jerry
Looks like there is a hole in the radiator. It's awful crowded in there, is that hard replace? I am looking on RockAuto and they have 6 different models...two row, three row...etc. any recommendations?
Best advice. Get the biggest 4 row aluminium rad you can possibly shoe horn in there! These cars love to run Hot! The difference in price for the biggest one compared to a average one is money well spent for peace of mind. There is a Aluminium Radiator Sticky at the top of this forum. It's a rather long read but good homework for you before you spend.
And yes. There a bugger to change out. Don't cheap out. Not something you want to do twice.
Be sure not to do any checks on a car that you just purchased also.
Just fix it as it breaks
lesson to learn, do at the very least the bottom hose while your doing it.
fill with water on reassembly & pressure test to see if you have any OTHER leaks
Out of interest I visited the Dewitts site. They offer two radiators for the 77-82, a Pro and an HP series. They appear to be basically identical radiators with different core configurations. The Pro has a 2.25" 2-row core, while the HP has a 2.75" 2-row core. Both list identical heat exchange of 5278 BTU/m. (Not sure what the m stands for - minute?) So what is the difference and why would one choose one over the other?
Not sure different widths, but i went usa made universal fit 2 5/8 frm zip for 1/3 of dewitts site..aluminum rocks for what is probably the hottest running years of c3’s with ac, retarded timing and 195f thermostat etc.. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nt-79-l82.html
Looks like there is a hole in the radiator. It's awful crowded in there, is that hard replace? I am looking on RockAuto and they have 6 different models...two row, three row...etc. any recommendations?
I realize the OP found his leak, but I didnt see anyone suggest putting some pressure on the cooling system to find the leak in the first place.... One of the first things to do in the case of coolant leak, especially like the one the OP experienced is to get a pressure tester and see if the system will hold pressure. If it doesnt, theres a leak, which will usually make itself evident at that point. just thought Id add that for some of the people who might not have known.
Out of interest I visited the Dewitts site. They offer two radiators for the 77-82, a Pro and an HP series. They appear to be basically identical radiators with different core configurations. The Pro has a 2.25" 2-row core, while the HP has a 2.75" 2-row core. Both list identical heat exchange of 5278 BTU/m. (Not sure what the m stands for - minute?) So what is the difference and why would one choose one over the other?
The HP is about 10% more than the Pro series. It looks like someone did the Cut/Paste description and forgot to change the BTU rating. M stands for minute
Overheating
