When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Dropped the diff out of my 71 C3 and taking it to Clearwater tomorrow morning for a rebuild. While its apart should I consider upgrading the spring or any other suspension parts?
The original leaf springs are in fine condition, and I recently installed some quality shocks.
It’s a numbers matching car, good condition and I plan to keep it around and regularly drive Original leaf springs are fine. Everything else looks okay. This is my car.
it.
Van Steel Delrin diff crossmember bushings & pinion bushing kit?
How old/ miles are the half shaft joints?
Stub axle end play & bearing age/miles?
Adding a small rear sway bar?
Always fun playing with other people's money.
Upgrade from camber eccentrics to adjustable rods?
I like your shop, looks like you have a great work environment and the lift comes in handy.
I don't know who is rebuilding the diff and don't need to know, but I would ask some questions on how it is going to be built and what parts are used. For example, if axles are needed what options will you be offered and what endplay is to be expected. Same for the posi work, what type of work and what if it's cracked what is used and how is it used? If you don't know and ask about this work, you may be surprised at what you get.
As for anything else, you need to build the IRS, TA, and Diff to your application. If you are going with more power and plan on using it, a stock type rebuild isn't going to do much for you. Likewise, if you are keeping it stock, under 350hp, no racing, no sticky tires, then there is less to address.
Do it right now and you're driving, do it wrong or worse, not knowing what you bought, you may be doing it again.
At the very least since the u-joints are loose I would rotate them and see what they feel like. Smooth is the key. No grittiness allowed. Replace them if any concerns or depending on mileage. The grease does tend to dry out with age.
Also rock the rear hubs with a dial indicator and measure the rear bearing play. That grease dries out too.
Eyeball the front trailing arm rubber bushing and assess it's condition.
The rubber bushings in the rear strut rods is another part that does not last too long.
I see a greaseable u-joint on the driveshaft so it has been replaced at least once. Give them a squirt of grease while you can get to things.
Because I see greaseable u-joints I hope you do not have a big engine or use it much. Those are meant for cruisers.
Thanks for the good advice and questions to ask. Yes, the shop gets a lot of use! The lift is a new addition.
Van Steel is doing the rebuild and I will ask those questions this morning when I drop it off.
I fit into the under 350 HP, old man driving category and will be keeping everything numbers matching.
Have a great day.
Thanks for the compliment! It's been enjoyable to own and wrench on over the years!
The U-joints are in good shape, I keep them greased.
I'll check the rear hubs.
The front trailing arm bushing is bad and will be replaced when I reinstall the diff.
It's a cruiser and is driven like the old man I've become.
Have a great day!
Diff Rebuild
.
