Recently I’ve had major problems holding the correct amount of camber in just my drivers side rear tire. Every time I drive it it seems to kick out the wheel. I will jack the car up and adjust the camber with the strut rod and it works so I tighten the nut back down on the adjustment bolt and then after 30 ish mins of driving the tire is sitting with a lot of negative camber. I checked the wheel bearing and there is absolutely no play with the wheel side to side or up and down. My next guess is that the camber rod adjustment bolt isn’t tight making it have play even when the bolt is tightened down. I will attach some photos of the wheel and the camber bolt. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

This is after 30 mins of driving after being adjusted

This is after 30 mins of driving after being adjusted

This shows some potential play in the camber adjustment bolt that I mentioned earlier

 

How much torque are you applying to the camber adjusters? This design is notorious for the problem you are encountering and many folks have converted over to adjustable heim joints. That said, GM built every C2 and C3 with this design also fundamentally it does work. I have never had an issue with my 69 in 50 years of ownership. They should be torqued to 75 ft-lbs.

 

what he said

 

Well the problem is that I can’t get a torque wrench behind it as it doesn’t have enough room. So I’ve kinda been tightening it by feel. I might try to take off the parts that are blocking me and get a real torque wrench in there

 

Use a crowfoot socket on the torque wrench

 

you do know after tightening you can jack car up for torqueing?