MILO

The air box for the A/C is leaking air when the fan is on. Besides the quick fix of silicon, what kind of caulking was originally used -- pipe dope?

Michael Tucker

milo,
i think you are looking for ecklers part number
68-77 seal kit, a/c evap case #26736 $49.99 or
78-82 " " " " " #26737 $44.99

hope this helps,
mike

cardo0

Monkey poopie (not ment to offend anyone). Don't know where I learned that term but easy to remember. Instructions require refrigeration before installation and looked like more trouble to use than silicone sealer. Used blue silicone on mine instead - let fate prove me wrong.
Upon opening discovered all my A/C box gaskets gone! Hey where did they go? Guess the previous owner liked plenty of heat with his A/C cooling (Las Vegas, Nevada). Gaskets and Monkey Poop came as package. Ecklers has kit for ~$50. Good luck. :flag

vettfixr

When I rebuilt my air box I used the kit that Dr. Rebuild sells. I found it hard to work the caulk supplied so I went to Pep Boys and got a box of Windshield sealing ribbon. It's basically the same as what's supplied in the kit but thicker and all in one piece. The kit has a bunch of smaller pieces. I think I paid about $6 for a roll that was about 25 feet long. You can probably press it against the box seam without removing the box and get a decent enough seal until you want remove and rebuild the whole system. Here's a tip. Before you remove the air box and try to rebuild it go to church every day for a few months cause you're gonna lose a lot of religion on that job.

adam

Vettfixr;

So did you use anything from the kit from Dr. Rebuild ??

Also, a followon question. It seems some fiberglass is missing by the door to seal
the blower compartment outside the kick plate. What would be a good substiture
to seal that area. Right now there is nothing there. I feel the air coming out (and in)
when the fan is on, outside the door...

vettfixr

I used all the die cut seals in the kit and they were very good. the reason I didn't use the calk is that it is packaged between pieces of plastic and is so sticky that when I tried to separate the pieces I ended up with a big ball of sticky stuff. The windshield sealing tape is made of the same material but is in a long roll and easier to work with. Get the thinnest seal you can so you won't have to stretch it too much to make it thinner. I did a post a few months back on sealing the plenum area outside the passenger kick panel. it seems this part was attached to the body with the same bonding agent as the body panels. When this bonding agent gets old it cracks and falls out and allows engine heat and odors to enter the heating and AC system. When I reached into the area on my car I felt the wind from the engine fan. I used the same windshield sealing calk to seal this area. Just remove the kick panel and the vent flapper so you can reach into the plenum area. Then take the calk and seal completely around the perimeter. You may need to double up on the caulk to completely fill the voids. One trick you can use is to do this in a garage where it's dark. Put a light under the car and in the engine compartment and then look in the plenum box with an inspection mirror. You'll be amazed at how much light comes into that "sealed" area. Once you have it sealed you will have a better performing AC system because you won't have the AC fighting the heat of your exhaust pipes and engine. You will also get rid of the Old Car Smell that the engine fumes cause in the interior. Good Luck.