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Replaced carb with Edelbrock AVS2. The rear vac port for brake booster is smaller thread than stock metal tube fitting. Can I just put brass fitting with barb and use hose to repalce metal tube. It changes to rubber hose anyway just before the round black cylinder (filter?) then to booster. Hope this makes sense - Thx
Find out what diameter and thread pitch is needed for a brass fitting, then take that info to your local NAPA. I have found them there and sometimes EBay.
It needs to have the barbs on the hose end of the fitting.
Make sure that the rubber hose going to the booster is "thick-wall" and not avg rubber thickness.
That line will go to a filter and a check valve that keeps vacuum in the booster in the event the engine stalls at speed.
That line should also be solo / dedicated. Nothing tapped into it.
The round black cylinder is a carbon canister. Fuel vapors were found to be deteriorating the power brake booster diaphragm. The canister was added to condense the vapors into liquid which then drains back into the carb. It looks out of place sticking up in the engine compartment, but needs to be kept upright for the fuel to drain out of the bottom under gravity.
Charlie
I'd keep the GM hard tube that connects to the carb and only look to adapt its threads down to the carb threads. You really don't want any sort of bend restriction in a full rubber line to limit vacuum pull on the booster. (If GM had thought rubber all the way was a good engineering shortcut, they'd certainly have taken it.)
I'd keep the GM hard tube that connects to the carb and only look to adapt its threads down to the carb threads. You really don't want any sort of bend restriction in a full rubber line to limit vacuum pull on the booster. (If GM had thought rubber all the way was a good engineering shortcut, they'd certainly have taken it.)
You mean like:
All rubber to the headlights and all rubber to the over-ride switch under the dash, and all rubber to the vapor canister and all rubber from carb to dizzy, etc, etc, etc.
For what it's worth - Going with 1/4" brass to barb and heavy wall rubber hose to filter. . Tried to retain metal tubing from brake booster to new Edelbrock carb but could not find adapter from Edelbrock 1/4" to original Rochwester flared 3/8' tubing connector. NAPA, Winners Circle and Edelbrock all thought rubber hose and direct brass fitting is most common way to resolve this issue.
You mean like:
All rubber to the headlights and all rubber to the over-ride switch under the dash, and all rubber to the vapor canister and all rubber from carb to dizzy, etc, etc, etc.
No. I mean all rubber for the power brake booster. GM, for the most part, designed that as a single isolated line on Corvettes and used a steel tube for the bend. I don't know the vacuum demands of the brakes, but it must be different enough, again for the most part, to enjoy it's own large diameter line. I think your observation about the rest of the vacuum system may bear this point out very well. The only other metal section in the entire system that I can think of is a small diameter line that runs along the various curves of the firewall below the windshield wiper motor. If GM had thought rubber all the way was a good engineering shortcut, they'd certainly have taken it.
I have run the thick wall vacuum hose from either the carb or an Intake port, to booster for decades without issue. The trick is to use the thick wall like GM original did.
It can't kink by bending. However, few automotive stores have that in stock
The older cars never had the metal tube. Or the charcoal filter. Just a heavy rubber line. And it always worked fine. I currently run a section of AN hose. Made for fuel injection fuel delivery. Approx 3/8 inside diameter. Very heavy and stiff and looks good.
brakes work fine.