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I am replacing the vacuum booster on my car. Accessing the four bolts from underneath the dash is very difficult. I happened to notice a plate located where the windshield wiper arms are located. Is there any possibility if that plate is removed you could access those four bolts from there?
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Nope! Do yourself a favour. Remove the steering column. Takes about a half an hour. Then you can easily remove the dash and have access to everything behind the dash and remove the 4 bolts in two minutes. Or, leave the column in place, curse, swear, bruise, cut knuckles and take 2 hours to remove. YMMV.
If you take out the seat, put some padding (blanket, etc.) over the door sil, and lay on your back, you can reach all the bolts. You may have to use multiple ratchet extensions, universal joints, etc., but it can be done in about 15 minutes. A lot depends on your dexterity and mechanal ability.
If you take out the seat, put some padding (blanket, etc.) over the door sil, and lay on your back, you can reach all the bolts. You may have to use multiple ratchet extensions, universal joints, etc., but it can be done in about 15 minutes. A lot depends on your dexterity and mechanal ability.
I am with sayfoo I have changed a few in the past I didn't take out the steering column but was still able to do it. I am not a large guy so I can get up there with ratchets and swivels.
I also agree with Sayfoo. Pull the seat, leave the column alone. The only tough bolt is the top upper left, and I was able to remove it with a stubby rachet.
I am replacing the vacuum booster on my car. Accessing the four bolts from underneath the dash is very difficult. I happened to notice a plate located where the windshield wiper arms are located. Is there any possibility if that plate is removed you could access those four bolts from there?
Expiring minds want to know what removing that plate will do... (?)
After removing the (4) bolts holding the plate in the wiper cavity, I found it is also riveted in place, so I did not remove it. But with that said, there was a ~2" grommeted hole on the side of the box area I was trying to access. Looking in there, it appears there is a metal strucuture all around and taking the plate off would not have helped to get access.
Thanks for the feedback from everyone. I removed the driver seat and dash since I am working on wiring also I used some foam (thanks for that recommendation) and was able to painfully access the bolts. WARNING: In my case (this may not be true for others), I had (5) nuts on (4) studs. The lower outside bolt had a nut holding a wiring clip. After removing the nut I found that there was another nut hiding behind the clip.
Now I move on to finding the right replacement part!
Last edited by Jbradhill; Jul 15, 2023 at 07:51 AM.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
I went with a matched set from TuffStuff. Its easier than trying to find a booster that may or may not match the plunger of the master with proper spacing. If you do look at the Tuff Stuff option, you have to make sure its the Disc/Disc version as they sell a Disc/drum version that wont work for vettes https://www.tuffstuffperformance.com/
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Originally Posted by Jbradhill
After removing the (4) bolts holding the plate in the wiper cavity, I found it is also riveted in place, so I did not remove it. But with that said, there was a ~2" grommeted hole on the side of the box area I was trying to access. Looking in there, it appears there is a metal strucuture all around and taking the plate off would not have helped to get access.
Thanks for the feedback from everyone. I removed the driver seat and dash since I am working on wiring also I used some foam (thanks for that recommendation) and was able to painfully access the bolts. WARNING: In my case (this may not be true for others), I had (5) nuts on (4) studs. The lower outside bolt had a nut holding a wiring clip. After removing the nut I found that there was another nut hiding behind the clip.
Now I move on to finding the right replacement part!
I replaced the booster, then the next day I pullled it out again because I forgot to put a little loctite where the clevis screws on to the rod.
The clevis cant unscrew from the pedal but was afraid the rod might seperate from the clevis. Probably never would but felt better with it. Good luck.
After replacing the brake booster, I found that the electric vacuum booster was not kicking back on until it was down to 5" of vacuum which was too little for the brakes. I replaced the 555-63018 Vacuum Pump Control Module Replacement Part for 555-63016 and brakes are working fine now. .... but with that said, I am thinking a vacuum gage in place of my non-working clock gauge would be nice. I found one that I think will fit "Auto Meter 2317 Autogage Vacuum Gauge Regular, 2.625 in". When I measure across the front face of the existing gauges, the size is correct, but I have seen on forums that it should be 2-1/16" which is the opening size in the bezel. So I believe this is the correct size, anyone done this? Thanks!
Replacing brake vacuum booster
