AC Condensor
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 265
Likes: 76
AC Condensor
Hello All,
I have a 1980 C3 with upgraded top end, 4 row champion aluminum radiator, two 12" spal electric fans with shroud, 180 degree thermostat and stock water pump, dakota digital dash with temp display.
I live in south florida and find the car runs abount 185 during regular driving and up to 190 when it's over 95 degress outside. All good.
I having issue when running AC. I have stock condensor and R4 pancake compressor. The system works and cools well but when I run with AC my engine temp runs up to 220 degrees and in some cases will continue to increase unless I turn it off. So I'm assuming the condensor is adding too much heat for my cooling system to deal with.
Question is would I be better off with a smaller more efficient condensor? Would a compressor change to Sanden help?
I don't want to invest in AC parts of the issue is related to my cooling setup. I've done my best to seal around the radiator and shroud to ensure the fans a pullling air appropriately. I do have the lower front scoop on the car so air is being channeled to the radiator.
Hoping someone else have been here and can provide some suggestions.
Thanks
Jose
I have a 1980 C3 with upgraded top end, 4 row champion aluminum radiator, two 12" spal electric fans with shroud, 180 degree thermostat and stock water pump, dakota digital dash with temp display.
I live in south florida and find the car runs abount 185 during regular driving and up to 190 when it's over 95 degress outside. All good.
I having issue when running AC. I have stock condensor and R4 pancake compressor. The system works and cools well but when I run with AC my engine temp runs up to 220 degrees and in some cases will continue to increase unless I turn it off. So I'm assuming the condensor is adding too much heat for my cooling system to deal with.
Question is would I be better off with a smaller more efficient condensor? Would a compressor change to Sanden help?
I don't want to invest in AC parts of the issue is related to my cooling setup. I've done my best to seal around the radiator and shroud to ensure the fans a pullling air appropriately. I do have the lower front scoop on the car so air is being channeled to the radiator.
Hoping someone else have been here and can provide some suggestions.
Thanks
Jose
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,090
Likes: 4,013
From: New Braunfels Texas
Try running with the hood popped open and if it helps try removing the upper control arm flaps and letting some of the air out.......I removed mine years ago.......it will get dusty...but so does a Duece Hiboy..Lol
Vette's are pretty bad about trapping heat in the engine compartment.....
Jebby
Vette's are pretty bad about trapping heat in the engine compartment.....
Jebby
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 265
Likes: 76
Try running with the hood popped open and if it helps try removing the upper control arm flaps and letting some of the air out.......I removed mine years ago.......it will get dusty...but so does a Duece Hiboy..Lol
Vette's are pretty bad about trapping heat in the engine compartment.....
Jebby
Vette's are pretty bad about trapping heat in the engine compartment.....
Jebby
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,631
Likes: 1,340
NO. You'll just have worse a/c.
Check the condition of your radiator. I would swap it our for a 2-row aluminum if doubtful at all. How old is that rad? What do the insides look like? What is the condition of your electric fans? IF they're iffy I'd buy the best replacements available.
Check the condition of your radiator. I would swap it our for a 2-row aluminum if doubtful at all. How old is that rad? What do the insides look like? What is the condition of your electric fans? IF they're iffy I'd buy the best replacements available.
Hello All,
I have a 1980 C3 with upgraded top end, 4 row champion aluminum radiator, two 12" spal electric fans with shroud, 180 degree thermostat and stock water pump, dakota digital dash with temp display.
I live in south florida and find the car runs abount 185 during regular driving and up to 190 when it's over 95 degress outside. All good.
I having issue when running AC. I have stock condensor and R4 pancake compressor. The system works and cools well but when I run with AC my engine temp runs up to 220 degrees and in some cases will continue to increase unless I turn it off. So I'm assuming the condensor is adding too much heat for my cooling system to deal with.
Question is would I be better off with a smaller more efficient condensor? Would a compressor change to Sanden help?
I don't want to invest in AC parts of the issue is related to my cooling setup. I've done my best to seal around the radiator and shroud to ensure the fans a pullling air appropriately. I do have the lower front scoop on the car so air is being channeled to the radiator.
Hoping someone else have been here and can provide some suggestions.
Thanks
Jose
I have a 1980 C3 with upgraded top end, 4 row champion aluminum radiator, two 12" spal electric fans with shroud, 180 degree thermostat and stock water pump, dakota digital dash with temp display.
I live in south florida and find the car runs abount 185 during regular driving and up to 190 when it's over 95 degress outside. All good.
I having issue when running AC. I have stock condensor and R4 pancake compressor. The system works and cools well but when I run with AC my engine temp runs up to 220 degrees and in some cases will continue to increase unless I turn it off. So I'm assuming the condensor is adding too much heat for my cooling system to deal with.
Question is would I be better off with a smaller more efficient condensor? Would a compressor change to Sanden help?
I don't want to invest in AC parts of the issue is related to my cooling setup. I've done my best to seal around the radiator and shroud to ensure the fans a pullling air appropriately. I do have the lower front scoop on the car so air is being channeled to the radiator.
Hoping someone else have been here and can provide some suggestions.
Thanks
Jose
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 265
Likes: 76
The radiator is a 4 row aluminum and less that one year old as are the spal fans. I tried what Jebby recommended and poped the hood while driving but my temp slowly creaped up to 222 degrees with the AC on. At that point it's going up very slowly so I'm close but need to add some further efficiency to the system so I can run with the AC on this time of year.
I haven't replaced the water pump but I have removed it and under inspection is looked fine and clean with little to no rust. I replaced the lower hose since original one had a leak so I'm not sure if this one might be collapsing but it's not apparent when I look at it under temp and load.
I haven't replaced the water pump but I have removed it and under inspection is looked fine and clean with little to no rust. I replaced the lower hose since original one had a leak so I'm not sure if this one might be collapsing but it's not apparent when I look at it under temp and load.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 12,937
Likes: 7,571
From: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
2025 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
2022 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
I live in an even hotter climate. I too run a 4 row Champion rad. Here's what I found.
I had a high flow water pump, and now run a standard replacement waterpump. No difference. High flow thermostat, helps a little.
I run a parallel flow condenser, it's the same size as the original serpentine style but far more efficient.
I ran the twin spal fans as you are and had the same issue. I changed over to C5 Corvette fans that I had to slightly modify the shroud to fit. I did a home made test to check the difference when I did the change over. Basically what I found was the C5 fans blew considerably harder. That and a trienary switch in the high pressure line that kick the fans on when pressure starts to build on the high side regardless of engine temp.
problem solved.
100 plus degree outside temps. Air-con on full blast.
Car holds 190 degrees.
I had a high flow water pump, and now run a standard replacement waterpump. No difference. High flow thermostat, helps a little.
I run a parallel flow condenser, it's the same size as the original serpentine style but far more efficient.
I ran the twin spal fans as you are and had the same issue. I changed over to C5 Corvette fans that I had to slightly modify the shroud to fit. I did a home made test to check the difference when I did the change over. Basically what I found was the C5 fans blew considerably harder. That and a trienary switch in the high pressure line that kick the fans on when pressure starts to build on the high side regardless of engine temp.
problem solved.
100 plus degree outside temps. Air-con on full blast.
Car holds 190 degrees.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,631
Likes: 1,340
From 4-vettes posting I'd do the C5 fan swap. I have a mark viii and my engine never overheats....so matter how hot it gets.
IF your a/c is working fine then I would not mess with the condenser - the heat exchange in front of the radiator is happening adequately already. If a/c is working fine then I would not open it up to install a trinary switch - I actually installed a parallel flow condenser, the largest I could fit in front of rad, just for better a/c (I installed the Trinary switch while I had the system empty too, just to not have the elec fan run at highway speeds)---- it now totally covers the whole front of the radiator and it did not affect my engine temps--- I suspect because that Mark VIII fan really pulls hard.
If everything else is fine on your car then I'd do the c5 fans as 4-vettes has---- just for the peace of mind and to be cool.....
IF your a/c is working fine then I would not mess with the condenser - the heat exchange in front of the radiator is happening adequately already. If a/c is working fine then I would not open it up to install a trinary switch - I actually installed a parallel flow condenser, the largest I could fit in front of rad, just for better a/c (I installed the Trinary switch while I had the system empty too, just to not have the elec fan run at highway speeds)---- it now totally covers the whole front of the radiator and it did not affect my engine temps--- I suspect because that Mark VIII fan really pulls hard.
If everything else is fine on your car then I'd do the c5 fans as 4-vettes has---- just for the peace of mind and to be cool.....
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 265
Likes: 76
From 4-vettes posting I'd do the C5 fan swap. I have a mark viii and my engine never overheats....so matter how hot it gets.
IF your a/c is working fine then I would not mess with the condenser - the heat exchange in front of the radiator is happening adequately already. If a/c is working fine then I would not open it up to install a trinary switch - I actually installed a parallel flow condenser, the largest I could fit in front of rad, just for better a/c (I installed the Trinary switch while I had the system empty too, just to not have the elec fan run at highway speeds)---- it now totally covers the whole front of the radiator and it did not affect my engine temps--- I suspect because that Mark VIII fan really pulls hard.
If everything else is fine on your car then I'd do the c5 fans as 4-vettes has---- just for the peace of mind and to be cool.....
IF your a/c is working fine then I would not mess with the condenser - the heat exchange in front of the radiator is happening adequately already. If a/c is working fine then I would not open it up to install a trinary switch - I actually installed a parallel flow condenser, the largest I could fit in front of rad, just for better a/c (I installed the Trinary switch while I had the system empty too, just to not have the elec fan run at highway speeds)---- it now totally covers the whole front of the radiator and it did not affect my engine temps--- I suspect because that Mark VIII fan really pulls hard.
If everything else is fine on your car then I'd do the c5 fans as 4-vettes has---- just for the peace of mind and to be cool.....
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,631
Likes: 1,340
That's pretty cool. YOu should be able to set that up to operate the c5 fans then. I only have 1 fan and I control it with the EZ-EFI 2.0 engine controller.... it also works well but really only gives me 5° range between ON and OFF --- which is OK I reckon since it's been quite well for years.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 923
Likes: 154
From: North Port, FL
I put a cross flow condenser dewitts rad and C5 fans, as well as updating the AC fan relay to a later style. (10bucks for 2 at amazon) got my fans at Rock auto, you may find cheaper used. Its been 118* here in AZ and the AC works good. Temps180-90. 210 in traffic
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 126
Likes: 37
From: Brentwood, Tennessee
AC condenser/engine temp
I have a 82CE here in Tennesse where it gets mid 90’s with 90 to 100% humidity. My CE has a 180 therm and runs 185-190 while driving with the air on. In traffic it climbs to 215-220 but comes back down when I resume driving. It has the standard 2 5/8 radiator. These temps are typical for a C3 Corvette. The factory set the electric fan to come in about 240. Unless your temps climb to 240 there is nothing to worry about. All Corvettes with the factory settings run borderline hot, except big blocks that usually always tun hot. Just sayin.