Balancer ? Spec, Clearance, Timing tab
car is a 1980 L48 4 speed.
Engine is a 1977 350 out of my Big 10 4x4 with 45k. Has 4 bolt mains, factory non emissions motor
Question 1 Spec:
The engine is in the c3 and has a front crank seal leak. Since i need to pull the harmonic balancer i was wondering if i could swap on one for a 1980c3 with out issue?
Question 2 Clearance:
the current balancer seems to come close to the power steering pump bracket. Did they have forged crank 350’s in pickups in 77? I have read these have the bigger balancer.
Question 3 timing tab:
i cannot see my 12 o clock timing tab because of the short water pump. If i swap to a c3 balancer the timing mark should be closer to 2:30 position. Would a bolt on tab work. I would rather not replace the timing cover at this time…. Would like to save that for a future cam swap.
Thanks for the information.
Last edited by The Grinch; Aug 2, 2023 at 08:08 AM.
40 year old balancers will separate and spin.....not a question of if....when.
Jebby
i would only replace the balancer with a NEW one i am not going to reuse old stuff that may have slipped or cracked.
with the summit balancer and moroso tab is there a set up process to ensure TDC? I have only use factory timing tabs or fluid dampers on diesel engines.
My thought with using a new balancer spec ed for an 80 C3 is that it would put my timing slot in a place where a stock timing tab would line up as the slot is diffrent in relation to the keyway depending on the location of the timing tab on the timing chain cover.
I am liking the aftermarket suggestion.
Last edited by The Grinch; Aug 2, 2023 at 09:03 AM.
i would only replace the balancer with a NEW one i am not going to reuse old stuff that may have slipped or cracked.
with the summit balancer and moroso tab is there a set up process to ensure TDC? I have only use factory timing tabs or fluid dampers on diesel engines.
My thought with using a new balancer spec ed for an 80 C3 is that it would put my timing slot in a place where a stock timing tab would line up as the slot is diffrent in relation to the keyway depending on the location of the timing tab on the timing chain cover.
I am liking the aftermarket suggestion.
Now a stamped chrome pointer is going to be all over the place.....but a machined billet piece will be made on a CNC machine and the pointer installed and tightened down on a jig.....much more accurate.....and the Moroso piece is dead on. Piston stop is the right way but not everybody will or can use one so these parts are a no brainer and will get one very close.......one degree isn't going to change much but I have seen chrome ones out of the box as much as 8 degrees off.......
Jebby
not seeing the 7 inch?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-161350?rrec=true
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-60110





I had noticed last year when I was working on some cooling issues and was setting the timing...the marks weren't close to where they should be. I used a piston stop through the spark plug hole and remarked it at that time.
The mark on the right is the one I made at that time....and it's aligned with the "zero" mark on the new balancer. The mark on the left "should" be back where the one on the right is!
JIM






