75Vert L-48 Manual 4-speed, all stock as far as I can tell.

I just got this project a couple of weeks ago from a gentleman who could no longer continue the restoration. He and his bud were doing all kinds of great stuff to this car then his friend got sick and passed away.

After two years and his own medical problems, previous owner passed it to me to finish.

I will be asking questions as I try to finish this job.

My first question: I have no wiring diagrams. New Lectric Limited Engine Wiring Harness already installed but nothing connected. The harness for the starter has one purple wire with small eyelet (for the S on the solenoid) and one orange and red combined into one termination point with a large eyelet the size of the battery lug on the solenoid. The new starter/solenoid only has one small post, S. See picture of wire.

I believe I have traced the red wire back to the one-wire alternator red wire lug. I think. I lose the orange where it goes into the harness. It may be a fusible link because it connects to a black line and disappears. Don’t know where the black wire goes.

The car has HEI (first year of HEI from factory).

Do I put the orange-red wire large lug on the same large lug as the Positive from the battery? If I do, the red wire to the alternator will be hot at all times as well as that mystery wire going into the harness.

I plan to call Lectric Limited with this question, but don’t expect an answer.

I appreciate any input.

 

"Lectric Limited" should at the minimum be willing to email you a schematic (.pdf) of THEIR harness. Guessing at what is or isn't a fusible link? No thanks. Or you could unwrap the harness a little more. If its about 4" of a different color wire it probably is a fusible link. Those rubber baby buggy bumpers were a clue on the original harness - what's between them was a FL.

I would immediately purchase a set of Doc Rebuilds laminated schematics for the '75 factory harness, since you're gonna end up with a hybrid. Best $50 you can spend. No way can "Lectric Limited's" can be anywhere near as useful.

Typically the alternator lug is always hot. I always get reminded by the *** end of a screwdriver or wrench if I forget that.

Using your ohmmeter you should be able to locate the other end(s) of the orange wire in under 5 minutes.

I don't know where Orange goes on a '78. Would need a peek at Dr. Rebuilds... '68's used the bottom of the horn relay, of all things, as a hot bus bar. Insanity!

If yours has a HEI .... HEI is fed straight from IGN. No starter crank signal bypassing a ballast resistor.

The only three wires you really NEED on a starter are B+, the crank signal S, and if the alternator dumps its output to the battery BY WAY OF the starter B+ lug, a wire for that. Preferably 10AWG.

On my starter, under one of the bolts is a large ring terminal supplying a ground to the harness. Of course the starter is grounded to the motor, and you should have a woven metallic grounding strap from frame to the block
somewhere near the passenger motor mount.

Make sure it's there.

GL

 

That looks correct.

https://www.zip-corvette.com/75e-aut...interlock.html

I'm pretty sure the output terminal of the alternator is always hot, though in the later cars the starter extension harness is a separate wiring harness with a connector. Still a pair of wires, and a pair of fusible links, separate from the purple wire.

Do you have a wiring diagram?
http://wordpress.keystonestatecorvet...m/?page_id=118

 

And before you do anything else electrical (or anything, really), you should really get a copy of the shop manual, and assembly instruction manual, too.

 

The wiring diagrams I pulled from your link are great. I already see some confirmation of what I thought for the wipers and other components. As long as Lectric Limited stayed true to colors, these will really help.

Thanks.