I can't figure this out guys. Help!

- Issue surfaced about a month ago, very few miles driven per mo. (weekend miles only ~30-50 mi per.)
- 7 mo old high end AAA battery from Napa Store installed 02/23, whatever the source of the drain, it killed the battery and it would not take a charge thereafter.
- Replaced battery yesterday 9/10 with exact same replacement AAA from Napa store, not a refurbish/brand new/07-23 sticker on the battery.
- Installed yesterday 9/10, car started, ran fine, drove it approx. 15mi, parked it last evening, and this evening during MNF halftime, went out to start it for a quick ride, battery dead, clock second hand not moving.
- Other:
1) Rear storage area dome light: operates fine, on and off with doors/opening and closing. Does not stay on at all.
2) Dome light in rear storage bay has never worked, have never troubleshoot it as to bad bulb or whatever.
3) Radio does not operate unless key is ON or in ACC position. No apparent issues tied to that, but not sure.
4) Clock is an aftermarket digital replacement that looks original. No issues with it in past to my knowledge.
5) Cigarette lighter is original and works, no issues to my knowledge.
6) Alarm is an unknown. I have never engaged/turned it on at the rear key location. The doorsill pin/sensors still have spring in them, but I just don't know if this may be the issue.

I don't really have any other input, thanks in advance for help from y'all.

 

you need proper testing equipment.
a digital volt meter that reads amps.
https://www.harborfreight.com/electr...ity-59410.html

 

I took mine to Justified in Rocklin. They found my Amp was connected to the gas gauge. Neither of these gauges worked. The Bodyshop that I pulled it from messed it up.

Make sure the wiper override switch is in the off position. The alternator is in working order and teh Horn relay isn't pulling power.

 

Make sure the rear Glove Compartment Box light is off when the door is closed. Easy way to check is look at interior of car at night without opening any doors.

 

Some model years have the courtesy spare tire light also.

Make a wood prop stick that will hold the door jamb button in the OFF position while tracing your electrical gremlin. With an ohm meter set-up at the battery, start pulling fuses one at a time at the fuse panel. Eventually one fuse will give you a zero reading on your meter.

 

While you are chasing the battery drain, you could put in a (quality) disconnect switch so you can remove power when parked and save your battery. I installed one in the bulkhead between the seats and have trained myself: key off - disconnect off. Every time. It’s also in easy reach if god forbid, an electrical fire starts while driving, I can easily hit the disconnect before bailing out.
Edit: the only thing that bypasses the disconnect switch is the memory power wire for the aftermarket radio, and that is fused, but has an incredibly low power draw anyway.