Front To Back Brake Line Replacement '81
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Joined: Sep 2023
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From: Howard County
Front To Back Brake Line Replacement '81
Does anyone have any advice? Struggled with it bad and actually broke new line. Making the turn at the backend before it connects to the brake block is a nightmare.
Thank you.
Thank you.
Drifting
Joined: May 2020
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From: Baton Rouge, Louisiana, metro area
I had a steel brake line rupture when braking on my 91. It was a New Jersey car for most of its life. No fun. I was very lucky.
I ran all new metal brake lines (pipes) with Nicopp lines from Earls. Formed all my own fittings.
Drove the car for several thousand miles before I sold it to fellow member who drove it from Louisiana to California with no issues. Car is still working fine today. I can confirm Nicopp lines are solid.
much easier to work with, especially if you get the bender.
https://www.holley.com/products/plum...rts/NC6416KERL
I ran all new metal brake lines (pipes) with Nicopp lines from Earls. Formed all my own fittings.
Drove the car for several thousand miles before I sold it to fellow member who drove it from Louisiana to California with no issues. Car is still working fine today. I can confirm Nicopp lines are solid.
much easier to work with, especially if you get the bender.
https://www.holley.com/products/plum...rts/NC6416KERL
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Off set style wrenches. The one at the way back is the biggest pain. But I got it out and back in. So can you.
1967 Pedal Car Champion
Joined: Mar 2020
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From: US-PNW
I was able to replace the front to back line in my '72 as one piece, but if you don't mind a splice, use a shorter section at the kickup area of the frame and install a joint to the straight frame section. The small section would be much easier to pre-bend and maneuver into place than with the 6' of extra tubing whipping around when trying to keep it in one long piece.
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From: Howard County
Thank you. Second question, I put all new brake system from master on with rebuilt calipers. I am going to bench bleed the master, however, do I need to do anything besides allow gravity to work to get the fluid in the new lines and calipers? If it is just gravity, should I let it sit overnight with fluid in the master (after I bench bleed it)?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2014
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From: Central UT
Hi MPBS, brake lines can be fun. It's been 2 years since I did mine on our '68, but I think I remember some items that may help. I know yours is an '81, but I believe there are a lot of similarities.
- I replaced all of our brake lines/hoses because while removing the diff I found that the rear line crossing between left/right had corrosion under one of the clips. If you haven't replaced that one, I would suggest it.
- I know a lot of people like SS lines. I do not. If you're trying to do this with SS lines, get a steel line. SS will not bend well, is not forgiving, and is just a pain to work with where you have to do some 'slight tweaking' to get them to line up with the blocks. I figured that my original steel lines lasted over 50 years. The ones I put in will outlast me.
- You might consider new blocks if you haven't got them. Makes it much easier to get a good seal with the new lines.
- For the front/rear line: as I remember....Start from the front and keep the line below the area where you need to snake it back up to the MC area. Work it back and go farther than the block. Then snake the front of the line up to the MC area. You'll need to 'bend it' a bit, but if you're not using SS you'll have no problem - slight bends and will go right back. Then button the rear up to the block before you try the front edit: and before you put any of the line clips back in).
- When tightening the lines: make sure you use a good 'line wrench'. Tighten them up pretty good, back them off a bit, and then do a final tightening.
- I do not (I'd put that in caps, but don't want you to think I'm yelling
) recommend spicing brake lines. You shouldn't need to if you take your time and try to enjoy it. - The clips along the frame are a pain, but you'll get them.
- I recommend using a Motive power bleeder, but many have good luck using gravity or the 'get my wife to control the pedal' methods. Bench bleeding the MC is really important. Bleed it multiple times before you install it. Lots of threads and youtube vids on this. And don't forget you have two caliper bleed screws (on the rear only, if memory serves).
Last edited by Hopper12; Oct 6, 2023 at 01:30 PM.
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From: Howard County
Thanks Paul...100% on board with everything. I have everything in place. Question. Since the lines don't have fluid in them because they are new, should i let the gravity bleed sit for a day or so, so they make thier way down to the calipers? Obviously, this will be done after I bench bleed the master. Thanks again.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2014
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From: Central UT
Thanks Paul...100% on board with everything. I have everything in place. Question. Since the lines don't have fluid in them because they are new, should i let the gravity bleed sit for a day or so, so they make thier way down to the calipers? Obviously, this will be done after I bench bleed the master. Thanks again.
Those who use gravity bleeding will be able to give you more insight here. Best, Paul