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I think that depends on year of the car. Once PS because standard I'm not sure there were two sets of holes.
1976 may have been the last year for optional power steering, with a 99.6% take rate. Dunno when the two-hole steering arms went away, though. The OP should take a look.
If GM could save a buck by only drilling one set of holes, I'm sure they would find a way.
Just to add to the details, for cars with the 2-hole knuckles, the A/C cars had the furthest hole plugged with aluminum or lead so that the linkage could not be placed in that hole.
I'd be more / most concerned about the movement on that box attached to the frame
I'd be looking for cracks really closely
As far as you wanting a faster ratio & and what 67 mentioned either hole won't get YOU what you want.
Pictures from my 1971 chassis service manual
Not sure how the different ratios come about when using the same steering box.
Last edited by 1971CorvetteII; Oct 5, 2023 at 06:57 AM.
Tthe front hole creates a shorter distance between the steering knuckle and the end of the tie rod which creates more tire movement for a given amout of input from the tie rod. i'm sure someone can explain it better than me but it's basically the same principal as moving the accelerator pump linkage from the outer hole to the hole that is closer to the pivot pin on the pump arm of a Qjet carb.
Tthe front hole creates a shorter distance between the steering knuckle and the end of the tie rod which creates more tire movement for a given amout of input from the tie rod. i'm sure someone can explain it better than me but it's basically the same principal as moving the accelerator pump linkage from the outer hole to the hole that is closer to the pivot pin on the pump arm of a Qjet carb.
Pat
I understand switching from the front to back will create a different ratio. I think that would be the (road) 20.2 to 1 or the fast (17.6 to1) what or where does the 16.1 come from ???
Look at both pages & you will see 3 (THREE) different ratios = how does that work with only 2 (two) holes it changes from power steering to manual = makes NO SENSE when your using the
the same steering box. what am I missing here ?
It won't get the poster anything better without switching boxes of making a new steering arm to replace the 2 hole factory one.
I understand switching from the front to back will create a different ratio. I think that would be the (road) 20.2 to 1 or the fast (17.6 to1) what or where does the 16.1 come from ???
Look at both pages & you will see 3 (THREE) different ratios = how does that work with only 2 (two) holes it changes from power steering to manual = makes NO SENSE when your using the
the same steering box. what am I missing here ?
It won't get the poster anything better without switching boxes of making a new steering arm to replace the 2 hole factory one.
i think what the 2 pages are sayiing is the box itself (or actual steering gear) is 16:1 then depending on what hole you put the tie rod in determines the overall ratio either 17.6:1 or 20.2:1 so only 2 "overall" ratios.
Yep, everything was straight. I really didn't tighten down. I basically turned it until I felt resistance in the screw.
At this point there’s no reason to try to save it. I’ll just sell it for its core value and get a new Borgeson steering box.
This is what I did.. tightened both till i felt they were touching something again. For me its been flawless for the last year since then but I just want a more modern variable assist type feel from the car and better handling altogether which is why I got the tubular a arms with more caster. I purchased the ridetech brace because I found mention from a couple people who added it later and stated the difference it made was well worth the investment.
My uncle has a 76 with manual steering so I assume they sold them with manual steering at least that long? He does need a new box.
Last edited by augiedoggy; Oct 7, 2023 at 09:27 AM.
This is what I did.. tightened both till i felt they were touching something again. For me its been flawless for the last year since then but I just want a more modern variable assist type feel from the car and better handling altogether which is why I got the tubular a arms with more caster. I purchased the ridetech brace because I found mention from a couple people who added it later and stated the difference it made was well worth the investment.
My uncle has a 76 with manual steering so I assume they sold them with manual steering at least that long? He does need a new box.
i think what the 2 pages are sayiing is the box itself (or actual steering gear) is 16:1 then depending on what hole you put the tie rod in determines the overall ratio either 17.6:1 or 20.2:1 so only 2 "overall" ratios.
Pat
Kinda what I was thinking but it seems to confuse many myself included.
I'll stick with manual (fast) = less to deal with.
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