Well you know how things go on these classic cars, us gearheads are always upgrading or replacing old parts with new for improvements.

I'm in the process of replacing my ignition switch on my 1981 C3 and since loosening the steering column is part of Jim Shea's process, (great papers and documents), I figure I would replace the Rag Joint as well. . I'd like to do this job right the first time and not replace again due to an inferior part. Reading past post it looks like some other members have experienced issues with inferior parts. I would like to know if anyone has used a particular brand or purchased from a particular vendor which supplies OEM or great reproductions.

Thank You!

 

I did the Rag Joint on a 72' last year and I had to use pieces of the old setup to make it all work right.......it came from Corvette Central.....

Jebby

 

Thank you for the recommendation. I found this complete reproduction and repair/rebuild options on Corvette Central. Looks like they both come with the original rag joint material (rubber/threads) instead of a few I saw that are all rubber. The complete comes with a 6 sided coupler bolt rather than the 12 point original, it should not matter as far as the bolt and function, just originality.

I was looking at replacing the complete lower side of the coupler with the rag joint since the original has been in place for 42 years . Is that what you meant by using some of your original parts (upper) with new lower? Or should I go ahead and buy the rebuild as well to use additional pieces with the complete?

https://www.corvettecentral.com/c3-6...t%26count%3d18

https://www.corvettecentral.com/c3-6...t%26count%3d22

 

I didn't use the whole kit with the coulpler....it was just a rag joint replacement....but I remember I had to use the factory pins and metal plate for some reason.......sorry, don't remember.......but that whole kit with coupler looks promising......
Someone will pop in here as there is known problems with a lot of aftermarket kits.....

Jebby

 

Thank you Jebby!

 

I just replaced mine a month ago when i installed my rebuilt steering box. i got it from Bairs in PA. no problems with iit at all.

Pat

 

Thanks Pat. I just spoke to them and they said they manufacture their own and supply to others. Great sales person and helpful. Going to place the order.

Much appreciated

Randy

 

Horn ground ??

 

Yes...

Jebby

 

A few years back I bought a new rag joint made by Lone Star, the Corvette Shop I use recommended their unit.

 

The GM rags were/are the best. They're rigid and grounded. The material that was use become so expensive that 12+ years ago they were pushed out of production. Tom Riena made the best, outside of the GM rags. He sold them direct and to the vendors. Prior to his passing he told me the material was too expensive and stopped making them. Long Island bought the rags from him as well and they ran out years before selling out.

I have not seen Bair's to comment on them, but I would like to see how the material compares. I recall speaking with Brian Bair about them years ago, before he sold out too and he couldn't find the material. Then Ernie at Wilcox was going to make them but had the same problem with the material.

Too spongy is no good. The imported ones come in with solid pucks and the D-Flat 180* off on some of the ones I have seen.

 

Thank you for all the information. I'll take some pictures of the Rag Joint from Bairs when I receive and ready to install as well as compare to the original material and orientations.

 

I found an OEM rag joint on eeeeeee.............bay & just installed it. Mine was original & looked "UNSAFE" It looks like stacked compressed layered cloth, the same as the one that came out. NOT the aftermarket made in China rubber chunk, junk.

 

There is also metal in the originals like belts in a tire you get your finger poked if you aren't careful = if I recall correctly
Find a old tire and make it yourself

 

That was screen impregnated into one side of the material for grounding.

 

I wish there were better new-production rag joint options.

I chose to use Flaming River U-Joints in both of my cars. YMMV.

Whatever path you choose, you can run a short wire across the joint for the horn circuit.

 

I had a few projects on the car, replaced the ignition switch, rag joint and adjusted the steering gear box following Jim Shea's in the car procedure. Wow, there is now absolutely no play in the steering wheel after the combination of new rag joint and adjusting the steering box. My 1981 drives and steers like a new car, it tracks back to center and very responsive.

As a follow-up the rag joint from Bairs looks to be of great quality and workmanship, the connecting bolts also have a shoulder on them just like the OEM, you can see this in the pictures. Installation went easy and all parts fit perfectly.

Thanks everyone for your assistance!

 

Jebbysan mentioned a metal part, I remember a metal part, I thought that was to complete the ground from the steering side thru the plate, then thru
the bolts to the connection on steering box side. ??
the metal sandwiched in the rubber for rigidity ??
If the (screen) was the ground I wouldn't see a very good contact between the bolts & the (screen) hench the metal plate under the heads of the bolts ??

anyways After a quick search it seems we are both correct, I didn't know the screen was actually a ground path'

 

The rags up to 1972 used a beryllium copper ground strap internally between the sections, as shown in the print above. It was yet another bad design that failed, they were in a position to get pinched and worn, they broke. In 1972 the design was revised, removing the strap and using the screen instead.

The new rag shown is probably one of the better repro's sold today but it's not like an NOS one. I would bet it's not as rigid, can't see if it's grounded but it's much less than a NOS one. It made an improvement that's what counts. Hopefully the lash screw was correctly adjusted, if not you will wear out the sector's center tooth in about 3k miles.

Here is a NOS to compare.

 

These are the Jim Shea instructions used and testing performed.Sector (Pitman) Shaft Adjustment

Now, with the steering gear exactly on center (procedure described previously), loosen the pitman shaft locknut and carefully tighten the lash adjuster screw (clockwise), until it is snug but not tight. Retighten the locknut to 25 foot-lbs. Drive the car and check for lash, check for stickiness over center, and for slow speed and moderate speed returnability.



I would suggest the following type road test:

Drive the car and make ninety degree right and left hand turns at about 12 to 15 mph. It helps to do this on an actual street corner so you can assess how well the steering wheel returns.



Drive the car straight ahead at about 45 mph. Just make small inputs to the steering wheel, (you don’t even need to change lanes). The steering wheel should return to center.



Please note, very small adjustments of the pitman shaft lash adjuster screw can make a very big differences in gear mesh loads. You should always complete your screw adjustment in the clockwise direction. If you go too far, make note of the screw location, turn the screw counterclockwise and begin tightening in the clockwise direction and tightening the jam nut.

Final Road Test

After making the above adjustments your steering should be crisp with very little lash. If there is still some lash it may be necessary to go through this procedure a second time, starting with the worm shaft adjustment and then the pitman shaft adjustment.