Parked for a year, Wont start
Thread Starter
1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Parked for a year, Wont start
About a year ago my water pump, and distributor went out. replaced both, next season. now wont start.
Getting crank, sparks fine (tested with a fun jolt to my finger), and i can see the fuel pushing out of the carb.
Any help here would be appreciated.
Thank you!
Getting crank, sparks fine (tested with a fun jolt to my finger), and i can see the fuel pushing out of the carb.
Any help here would be appreciated.
Thank you!
Pro
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 728
Likes: 346
From: Smyrna, TN
Pull the coil wire off (so it doesn't start) and pull the spark plug in #1 cylinder.
Have someone turn the key on and off to turn the engine while you have your finger over the hole.
When you feel air pressure on your finger, you are on the compression stroke.
Remove distributer cap and the rotor should be aimed to the front of the car aimed at that #1 cylinder.
If it is pointed toward the firewall, you have the distributer installed 180 degrees off.
1967 Pedal Car Champion
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 9,140
Likes: 4,248
From: US-PNW
A lot of times when people remove or replace the distributor, they get it 180 degrees off...
Pull the coil wire off (so it doesn't start) and pull the spark plug in #1 cylinder.
Have someone turn the key on and off to turn the engine while you have your finger over the hole.
When you feel air pressure on your finger, you are on the compression stroke.
Remove distributer cap and the rotor should be aimed to the front of the car aimed at that #1 cylinder.
If it is pointed toward the firewall, you have the distributer installed 180 degrees off.
Pull the coil wire off (so it doesn't start) and pull the spark plug in #1 cylinder.
Have someone turn the key on and off to turn the engine while you have your finger over the hole.
When you feel air pressure on your finger, you are on the compression stroke.
Remove distributer cap and the rotor should be aimed to the front of the car aimed at that #1 cylinder.
If it is pointed toward the firewall, you have the distributer installed 180 degrees off.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 728
Likes: 346
From: Smyrna, TN
Yes, except, the rotor electrode may not be pointing to #1 cylinder. However, it does have to be pointing to the cap tower where the #1 plug wire is connected. In the late-'60s Chevrolet advised service departments to reposition the distributor so that the vacuum can points directly out the passenger side of the car. Then they assigned the cap towers so that #1 wire is more aligned with #2 cylinder than #1. I believe this changed again with the HEI distributors in '75.
ASE training...
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,375
Likes: 1,593
From: Western NY
Yes, except, the rotor electrode may not be pointing to #1 cylinder. However, it does have to be pointing to the cap tower where the #1 plug wire is connected. In the late-'60s Chevrolet advised service departments to reposition the distributor so that the vacuum can points directly out the passenger side of the car. Then they assigned the cap towers so that #1 wire is more aligned with #2 cylinder than #1. I believe this changed again with the HEI distributors in '75.
1967 Pedal Car Champion
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 9,140
Likes: 4,248
From: US-PNW
On a forum dedicated to enthusiasts of all skill levels, we shouldn't make any assumptions! Additionally, my comment was in response to "rotor should be aimed to the front of the car aimed at that #1 cylinder" which is why I clarified that the rotor should be aligned with the tower and to forget about the block. Too many variables since these cars rolled out Chevrolet's doors to assume the configuration is still the same for anything.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 728
Likes: 346
From: Smyrna, TN
After working on countless sbc's over the last 45 years or so, I have rarely seen the #1 plug wire toward the firewall...
I only see this when Bubba has been under the hood, rotating wires instead of stabbing the distributor correctly...
Yes, the #1 could be anywhere on the distributor, but the OP removed the distributor and replaced it.
This makes it the #1 suspect to his problem.
We have to ASSUME that he did not rotate the engine with the distributor out, getting his rotating assembly out of sync with the oil pump....
This gives him two possibilities when dropping the distributor.
If the OP followed these directions, they would have a response/ Either it worked or it didn't.
If it didn't, we could go from there to more detailed diagnostics, to determine where the rotor is pointing at #1 @ TDC on compression stroke.
If you want to be "correct" according to the AIM, rotor should be "aimed" at the #2 cylinder. (front of engine, toward passenger side)
I am not sure why everyone has to be so contrary and trivial on this site, when we are just trying to help other members diagnose and make suggestions remotely.
I could have also told him how to balance and blueprint an engine, but was afraid the internet would run out of ink...
I only see this when Bubba has been under the hood, rotating wires instead of stabbing the distributor correctly...
Yes, the #1 could be anywhere on the distributor, but the OP removed the distributor and replaced it.
This makes it the #1 suspect to his problem.
We have to ASSUME that he did not rotate the engine with the distributor out, getting his rotating assembly out of sync with the oil pump....
This gives him two possibilities when dropping the distributor.
If the OP followed these directions, they would have a response/ Either it worked or it didn't.
If it didn't, we could go from there to more detailed diagnostics, to determine where the rotor is pointing at #1 @ TDC on compression stroke.
If you want to be "correct" according to the AIM, rotor should be "aimed" at the #2 cylinder. (front of engine, toward passenger side)
I am not sure why everyone has to be so contrary and trivial on this site, when we are just trying to help other members diagnose and make suggestions remotely.
I could have also told him how to balance and blueprint an engine, but was afraid the internet would run out of ink...
Last edited by n2h2o2; Oct 13, 2023 at 11:50 AM.
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Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,374
Likes: 224
From: Beecher Illinois
I'm assuming that it ran after the repairs last season.
I store several cars for folks over the winter. Quite often, even when seeing gas squirt in the carb, no start. It helps to prime the carb with a squirt of gas directly down the air intake of the carb.
Starts right up.
I store several cars for folks over the winter. Quite often, even when seeing gas squirt in the carb, no start. It helps to prime the carb with a squirt of gas directly down the air intake of the carb.
Starts right up.
