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Hello all. I just came back from Summit Point. My son ran my 1969 in a HPDE, while I ran my friends C6.
Anyway, when I came home and took the car off the trailer, I noticed it had two large oil stains and I was down a quart of oil (See Pic). The long oil stain on the right is the drivers side. Just so I’m up front here, I haven’t gone under the car yet. But I suspect and oil pan gasket leak.
Questions: I am pretty sure you can take down suspension parts to remove the oil pan.
But it is the front and rear oil seal that worry me.
Does the engine have to be removed?
Can the front seal be replaced properly without removing the timing chain cover?
Can the read seal be replaced properly without removing the scatter shield?
BTW: Not sure if it matters, but the pan is not stock. It is a Canton 6-quart Road racing pan.
This used to be second nature to me. But as I hit 70 years old, not as much fun.
Drop the centerlink at the idler arm for clearance. Front seal can be done without removing cover.
Rear seal can be changed in the car with a stock bell housing, you will have to determine if shield causes an issue. Use the Felpro one piece oil pan gasket.
Good question. I purchased it from Golen years ago when the original engine blew. I know it is a 4-bolt main, ARP main Studs and a 2 piece rear seal block. But I can't say for certain the year.
Good question. I purchased it from Golen years ago when the original engine blew. I know it is a 4-bolt main, ARP main Studs and a 2 piece rear seal block. But I can't say for certain the year.
I am still old school and use the four-piece pan gaskets. I have read just enough feedbacks that the one-piece pan gasket is not 100% leak proof either.
I do recommend an Oil Pan Stud Kit regardless of which style gasket you buy. The kit makes things s-o-o-o-o- much easier when laying on your back.
But before you start ordering oil pan stuff, you need to get the front up on ramps. It's possible the pan gasket is fine.
Could be the drain plug, Valve Cover, Fuel Pump gasket, or Timing Cover gasket, crank snout seal and in rare cases the dip stick tube.
I am still old school and use the four-piece pan gaskets. I have read just enough feedbacks that the one-piece pan gasket is not 100% leak proof either.
I do recommend an Oil Pan Stud Kit regardless of which style gasket you buy. The kit makes things s-o-o-o-o- much easier when laying on your back.
But before you start ordering oil pan stuff, you need to get the front up on ramps. It's possible the pan gasket is fine.
Could be the drain plug, Valve Cover, Fuel Pump gasket, or Timing Cover gasket, crank snout seal and in rare cases the dip stick tube.
Agreed. I was forthcoming and admitted I had not been under the car yet. Maybe today as it stopped raining.
I will check everything. Funny how the leak on the trailer was on the left and right side. Nothing near the middle. The pan is different from my stock oil pan. I used to see drops in oil pressure around under acceleration and deceleration. I then went to a HP Chevy pan with baffles and a swing gate. Now I have, as I mentioned, a Canton Road race pan.
I will call Golen’s Engine Services on Monday. My guess is Golen may not have records of my purchase for so long ago. If they at least have the date that would help on what block I may have purchased. All I remember is it was a used block……I think he used the work “seasoned”. I never thought to ask what year the block was. But I have an email from 2009 and PDF from 2013. So, I imagine it was around that time. I can’t locate the original receipt.
Agreed. I was forthcoming and admitted I had not been under the car yet. Maybe today as it stopped raining.
I will check everything. Funny how the leak on the trailer was on the left and right side. Nothing near the middle. The pan is different from my stock oil pan. I used to see drops in oil pressure around under acceleration and deceleration. I then went to a HP Chevy pan with baffles and a swing gate. Now I have, as I mentioned, a Canton Road race pan.
I will call Golen’s Engine Services on Monday. My guess is Golen may not have records of my purchase for so long ago. If they at least have the date that would help on what block I may have purchased. All I remember is it was a used block……I think he used the work “seasoned”. I never thought to ask what year the block was. But I have an email from 2009 and PDF from 2013. So, I imagine it was around that time. I can’t locate the original receipt.
Leak a bolt hole in the pan ? or just a leaky chevy motor
Gosh maybe a casting number on the block would narrow it down ?
any numbers on front engine pad ?
Left or right hand dip stick.
While I have the attention of experts, let me ask this:
What gasket sealer do you use? Any of those sealers in a tube? At my age, I started with that black shellac stuff in the 70’s. I tried some of the tube stuff, all different colors. For most stuff I later used Hi-tack gasket sealant I sprayed on.
At my age I don’t want to do this again in my lifetime.
While I have the attention of experts, let me ask this:
What gasket sealer do you use? Any of those sealers in a tube? At my age, I started with that black shellac stuff in the 70’s. I tried some of the tube stuff, all different colors. For most stuff I later used Hi-tack gasket sealant I sprayed on.
At my age I don’t want to do this again in my lifetime.
A THIN skim of red (hi temp) RTV on the sides, and a small dab at the "corners" where the pan seals at the front and rear of the block.
While I have the attention of experts, let me ask this:
What gasket sealer do you use? Any of those sealers in a tube? At my age, I started with that black shellac stuff in the 70’s. I tried some of the tube stuff, all different colors. For most stuff I later used Hi-tack gasket sealant I sprayed on.
At my age I don’t want to do this again in my lifetime.
If the pan rail bolt holes are straight....no "cone shape" holes.....then you only need RTV in the four pinch points at the rear main cap and front cover radius or "smiley face".....along the flat of both.....a VERY small amount.....the pan rail at the block and pan must be clean....wipe with solvent.....
Having good bolts is important too...the MrGasket oil pan bolt set has the good flange bolts and will help against "coning"....ARP and others are good too.....the MRG kit is cheap....
Pull the gasket down carefully at the four corners a little at a time.....as you go, tighten the rail bolts along with it, back and forth until the bolts are tight....there is a steel ring in the Fel Pro gasket that will not allow you to tighten any tighter.....so don't!!! If the pan is flat...it will seal every time.....
Oil pan gasket replacement
