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You can leave the harmonica connectors plugged together (if needed) and use a piece of short copper wire inserted into the connector of each wire (only one wire at a time). The pointed end of the tester, illustrated in the previous post, can be inserted to make contact with the wire/brass connector. If you need to check a wire when there is no close by connector, a straight pin can be used to pierce the plastic insulation. With old wires the insulation can be hard as a piece of steel.
Poke the end with the wire sticking out of the harmonica plug....stick the point right in there....the terminal is in there....you will make contact.....this is why it is easier with a test light.....
The one with the chef's kiss over it, 20 V -- (-- is DC, ~ is AC)
Your probe sockets are correct.
Ok so.... I got under there w/ my probe and it looks like i'm getting no power on either right or left turn signal. This leads me to believe its the switch in the column that was mentioned earlier in the post. Before i spend the $85 and start tearing apart the column is there anything else i should check?
Ok so.... I got under there w/ my probe and it looks like i'm getting no power on either right or left turn signal. This leads me to believe its the switch in the column that was mentioned earlier in the post. Before i spend the $85 and start tearing apart the column is there anything else i should check?
Did you check both sides of where the flasher plugs in, while the switch was in the switch position?
I checked in and out. There's power going in when the key is on and it seems like everything else is getting power except the wires listed above that power the left and right turn signals. That all makes sense to me since everything on the column works except the turn sigs.
Ok so.... I got under there w/ my probe and it looks like i'm getting no power on either right or left turn signal. This leads me to believe its the switch in the column that was mentioned earlier in the post. Before i spend the $85 and start tearing apart the column is there anything else i should check?
I just finished replacing the switch in the column on my 1977 with tilt/telescope steering. It was a real "B****". As mentioned earlier be sure to take lots of pictures. To many are better than not enough. Test everything before final assembly. I had my column apart 7 times. Also do not use LED bulbs anywhere. Well, maybe the dome lamp.
LED bulbs are not the problem (if done correctly, it will not work without a few non-stock parts). But if there is anything short of disassembling the column to replace the switch, we should help the OP find that. I don't know that there is, though.
When headlight switches fail, do they fail in both directions? Still seems like a wiring issue (which may be inside the column, of course).
If you are convinced that the problem is with the turn signal board, then you will need to purchase a new one. I think it’s unusual for both turn signal lights to quit. You can remove the steering wheel and look to see if the board is broke. I did mine a few years back, and Wilcox published a step by step procedure. On my 73, I had to remove the wires from the harmonica connector, because it would not fish down the steering column. You will also need a steering wheel puller, Harbor Freight has a cheap set. Start doing tons of reading as this is not an easy task. Good luck.
I beleive there are two flashers in some c3s one for 4 ways and one for turn signals. food for thought One is on passenger side above their feet. easy access
LED bulbs are not the problem (if done correctly, it will not work without a few non-stock parts). But if there is anything short of disassembling the column to replace the switch, we should help the OP find that. I don't know that there is, though.
When headlight switches fail, do they fail in both directions? Still seems like a wiring issue (which may be inside the column, of course).
Yes, let's help him out. Take lots of pictures, test everything before final assembly and don't use LED bulbs (unless you want to add a bunch of non OEM parts).
I replaced the turn signal switch in the columns today. I read a bunch of threads saying how horrible it is but i was done in 30 mins. It a standard columns w/o tilt and tele, maybe that helped. Regardless... still no turn signals, ugh. I pulled the fuse out from under the passenger side again and noticed the purple wire popped out of the plug. Put it back in hoping it was that simple but no dice. The 2 pink wires are getting power and the purple wire is dead. I think that it may come from the column? Anything else i should be checking? I cant believe turn signals are this hard.
I replaced the turn signal switch in the columns today. I read a bunch of threads saying how horrible it is but i was done in 30 mins. It a standard columns w/o tilt and tele, maybe that helped. Regardless... still no turn signals, ugh. I pulled the fuse out from under the passenger side again and noticed the purple wire popped out of the plug. Put it back in hoping it was that simple but no dice. The 2 pink wires are getting power and the purple wire is dead. I think that it may come from the column? Anything else i should be checking? I cant believe turn signals are this hard.
The purple wire comes from the turn signal flasher, make sure there is power there. The other wire on the flasher is pink/white and connects directly to the direction signal fuse so it should have power with the key on. Check if your backup lights work they are on the same circuit as the pink/white wire on the flasher.
You really should have a year Specific Wiring Diagram. You can then use a volt meter to read voltage at the Harmonica connector, for each wire. If you have already does this, for each wire, and everything checks out ok, I am at a loss. With a wiring schematic you will be able to read voltage on spec wires when the turn signal lever is activated. Without a year specific wiring schematic, you may be chasing your tail.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Does thid help?
Power comes into the fuse panel from the far left and far right sides and goes through the fuse towards the center.
Do you have power on the clips that hold the fuse on both sides of each fuse?
Typical fuse box:
The turn signal flasher is under the dash on the passenger's side, have you swapped it out for a known good one?
Here's a turn signal harmonica connection schematic:
The purple wire comes from the turn signal flasher, make sure there is power there. The other wire on the flasher is pink/white and connects directly to the direction signal fuse so it should have power with the key on. Check if your backup lights work they are on the same circuit as the pink/white wire on the flasher.
There is NO power there on that purple wire. There IS power on the two pink wires. There is power going into the column but for whatever reason there no power coming out. The wires in the connector are not getting power when i use the turn signals. They get power just fine when i use the hazards.
Originally Posted by Eliredandblack
You really should have a year Specific Wiring Diagram. You can then use a volt meter to read voltage at the Harmonica connector, for each wire. If you have already does this, for each wire, and everything checks out ok, I am at a loss. With a wiring schematic you will be able to read voltage on spec wires when the turn signal lever is activated. Without a year specific wiring schematic, you may be chasing your tail.
I do have the wiring diagram i'm just really bad at reading it and electrical in general. Turn signals seemed really easy to diagnose that's why I'm kind of frustrated here. I never thought this would be a big deal. Shows what i know.
Originally Posted by Peterbuilt
Power comes into the fuse panel from the far left and far right sides and goes through the fuse towards the center.
Do you have power on the clips that hold the fuse on both sides of each fuse?
Typical fuse box:
The turn signal flasher is under the dash on the passenger's side, have you swapped it out for a known good one?
Here's a turn signal harmonica connection schematic:
I bought a new fuse initially so i'm assuming its good but even if its not....I guess the source of the problem is that the purple wire isn't getting power and it sounds like it should be? The fuse could possibly be bad out of the box (not super unusual any more) but if that purple wire isn't getting power i assume the fuse doesn't really matter?
Have you checked to make sure there is 12 volts at the fuse tang in the fuse box? There should be power to one side of the fuse tang. Also, if you know what other devices are controlled by the turn signal fuse, then if they are operating correctly, it’s not the fuse or tangs. In my opinion, if you need to see if you are getting 12 volts at the harmonica connector, if you are getting 12 volts, then I would look at the new harmonica connector. On my 73, the connector was different from the OEM and more pins, I don’t know if that is true for your model year. To be sure, compare the removed harmonica connector with the new one ( count the number of pins), then make sure when you mated the connector, none of the tiny pins got pushed out. Good Luck
. Screwed it up initially.
