Power steering problem need some expert advice
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2023
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: PA
Power steering problem need some expert advice
Purchased another C3 it's a 1977.Been sitting for years in a heated garage , we got it running decent,now here's the issue, it is the power steering, sitting still the wheel can be turned with one finger it's almost scary it steers that easy,on the road it seems fine however you have to be careful because it's steers that easy. Now here's the issue with the wheels on the ground and trying to turn around or move the car turning the wheel in either direction sometimes will start vibrating and shaking the car till it is turned a little further once you're moving it's fine.Jacked up and with the wheels off the ground it doesn't happen seems like it needs a load on the steering I hope you understand what's going on seems like it almost has too much pressure, could it be a bad pump or control valve?
Today I changed the fluid and put a conditioner and additive in seems like it doesn't make much of a difference the car can be driven like this but I would like to fix the issue without starting to throw parts at it,you guys are the experts, has anyone out there ever experienced this problem also the system has no leaks looks like the control valve was changed at one time does
not look like the original
thanks guys
Today I changed the fluid and put a conditioner and additive in seems like it doesn't make much of a difference the car can be driven like this but I would like to fix the issue without starting to throw parts at it,you guys are the experts, has anyone out there ever experienced this problem also the system has no leaks looks like the control valve was changed at one time does
not look like the original
thanks guys
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
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I have a 77. Doesn't do this. Yes I have always put in as much caster as shims would allow. Recently added offset and slotted upper A arm shafts. Even more caster. Even better.
start with your alignment. Could be tires sticking under load caused by a complete lack of caster. Good place to start. Shoot for as much caster as you can get!
start with your alignment. Could be tires sticking under load caused by a complete lack of caster. Good place to start. Shoot for as much caster as you can get!
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,097
Likes: 4,027
From: New Braunfels Texas
You will get some action in the steering wheel at lock....left or right.....you are still tripping the power steering valve at lock but it can't go any further.....so it "shudders".....remember, this is a hydraulic system, and the force generated at that ram is considerably high and has potential to be much higher when limited.....hydraulic pressure spikes at lock.....like 4x if I remember properly.......so I believe you are knocking it against the knuckle stop on the control arm, and it is fighting you back.
The advice on caster is a good one........a properly aligned Corvette will track straight, hand off the wheel, at 100mph.......
Jebby
The advice on caster is a good one........a properly aligned Corvette will track straight, hand off the wheel, at 100mph.......
Jebby
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,810
From: Cool Northern Michigan
I bet that someone let the P.S reservoir run dry. You have an air pocket in the control valve. And / or an air bubble in the slave cylinder.
You changed the fluid, but did you bleed the system? Those air bubbles can lead to what they call a "shimmy". The control valve & cylinder is not getting constant pressure on both sides of the ram piston. On again / off again.
I believe a good 12 - 15 mins of bleeding the system help.
You changed the fluid, but did you bleed the system? Those air bubbles can lead to what they call a "shimmy". The control valve & cylinder is not getting constant pressure on both sides of the ram piston. On again / off again.
I believe a good 12 - 15 mins of bleeding the system help.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Oct 26, 2023 at 08:18 PM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2023
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: PA
Proper way to bleed the power steering
I bet that someone let the P.S reservoir run dry. You have a a air pocket in the control valve. And / or an air bubble in the slave cylinder.
You changed the fluid, but did you bleed the system? Those air bubbles can lead to what they call a "shimmy". The control valve & cylinder is not getting constant pressure on both sides of the ram piston. On again / off again.
I believe a good 12 - 15 mins of bleeding the system help.
You changed the fluid, but did you bleed the system? Those air bubbles can lead to what they call a "shimmy". The control valve & cylinder is not getting constant pressure on both sides of the ram piston. On again / off again.
I believe a good 12 - 15 mins of bleeding the system help.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 728
Likes: 346
From: Smyrna, TN
It kinda sounds like someone installed a new power steering control valve but didn't balance the slave cylinder...
Try this adjustment procedure in the video and see if this solves your problem.
Try this adjustment procedure in the video and see if this solves your problem.
Last edited by n2h2o2; Oct 26, 2023 at 07:06 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,810
From: Cool Northern Michigan
That should do it, unless there is a leak somewhere allowing air back in.
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2023
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: PA
Still having power steering problems
Should l bleed the brakes with the wheels off the ground and try again?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,810
From: Cool Northern Michigan
(I take it you mean bleed the PS off the ground)
Not only will the rod be dead center in its travel length, but the rod should easily move by hand before you attach it to the frame.
Somethings still not right. Is it a bad cylinder? Hard to say. It takes its commands from the C. valve. So, technically the C.V. could be at fault.
You should never stress any PS system whether it's a daily driver or your C3. What I mean by that is allowing the weight of the cars tires rubbing on concrete or blacktop. That puts a horrible strain on the tie rods, drag link, pump, etc. Always roll the vehicle a bit before turning the wheel.
If you do not want to lift the front for burping the PS there is a trick. Go to a dollar store and buy four self-stick floor tiles.
Peel the backing off one tile and stick it on the floor just in front of the tire. Place a big gob of grease on the tile. Take the second tile, peel the backing and place it up-side-down on the grease.
Drive up on the tiles. You now have a turntable that will swivel with the front tires.
Keep the tiles around. They can be used for setting rear tire camber on the strut rods. No friction.
Not only will the rod be dead center in its travel length, but the rod should easily move by hand before you attach it to the frame.
Somethings still not right. Is it a bad cylinder? Hard to say. It takes its commands from the C. valve. So, technically the C.V. could be at fault.
You should never stress any PS system whether it's a daily driver or your C3. What I mean by that is allowing the weight of the cars tires rubbing on concrete or blacktop. That puts a horrible strain on the tie rods, drag link, pump, etc. Always roll the vehicle a bit before turning the wheel.
If you do not want to lift the front for burping the PS there is a trick. Go to a dollar store and buy four self-stick floor tiles.
Peel the backing off one tile and stick it on the floor just in front of the tire. Place a big gob of grease on the tile. Take the second tile, peel the backing and place it up-side-down on the grease.
Drive up on the tiles. You now have a turntable that will swivel with the front tires.
Keep the tiles around. They can be used for setting rear tire camber on the strut rods. No friction.