I decided to call it quits on my Smeding 383 build, and am switching to an LS build, mainly because I got a deal on a reman LQ9 6.0 long block.
So I have some questions in regards to LS build for reliability.

The reman is pure factory spec, has factory non-captive trunnions, old style lifters.

Can I simply
1 - pull the heads
2 - pull the pushrods (noting location)
3 - pull lifters/trays
4 - pop in LS7 lifters
5 - drop in lifters/trays
6 - put heads back on
7 - pull each rocker one at a time and replace trunnion, put back pushrod, bolt/torque back down

Should it be that simple or are there adjustments/additional steps I need to take?

Also, should I replace the valve springs with slightly stronger ones while I am in there in case I want to add some mild lift later, and is it as simple as popping off the retainers and dropping on new springs, or will it be more complicated than that?

 

I'm doing the same thing!

I'd just run it as is. Change the lifters when (if?) you change the cam. I wouldn't even bother with the trunnions, but I have no basis for that suggestion other than YouTube.

If you change the springs, also change the valve seals. And you'll want to clean all the schmutz off of the valves, and lap the valves, etc. So don't change the springs if you don't need to clean the valves. Wait until you change the cam.

Have you done a compression test? That's how I new I needed to clean and lap the valves, and that seems to have fixed it.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...002-ls6-3.html

 

The reman is brand new, just got it. It it’s got shmutz in there I will have bigger issues. lol. I shouldn’t need to replace anything other than what I’m changing as it should all be reman’d

I have the lifters already (from my 383 build) - Howard’s cams. As I understand it, they are “ls7” style lifters and work in all gen engines.

I was thinking ahead as I’ve seen that you can do a cam change just by pulling the front of the engine because the lifters stick up and can be supported, plus chances are I’ll decide on a cam change before I’m done.

 

Do you have a list of what they did for the reman? I'd do a compression test (and a leakdown test), and stick a borescope in a spark plug port before going too deep. If it checks out, run it!

You need to pull the heads to change the lifters. Not hard, but one more thing.

 

So what issues did you run into to make you decide to ditch the 383 and do FI?

 

No issues. I just decided to go LS. My 383 is sweet and was almost finished, but I'm just going to part it out.

 

My .02?
Much easier to do engine work when the engine is still on the engine stand.
In regards to the lifters I would contact the company that rebuilt the engine and see what is new and what was reused from the engine before the rebuild. Lifter trays are cheap but from where? GM? LS7 lifters not so much but that's I would use. Make sure they are "real" GM LS7 lifters. Not off Amazon. If you pull the heads you will need new head gaskets and head bolts. The only thing to consider if you open up the engine will it void warranty?
Trunnion upgrade? I would and have used the Comp Cams kit. Some like roller type and some like the bronze bushing type. I've used only the roller type. Easy to do if you have a bench vise. I just take them out all at once. When I reinstall I roll the engine over so the cam is on the base circle on each lifter and torque to 22 ft lbs.
I would replace the push rods and valve springs if you have any plans to go to a bigger cam. The valve seals on a reman engine should be new but maybe not the correct diameter for upgraded push rods?
Question. Assuming your 383 is a SBC how do LS7 lifters work in a SBC? Lifter dog bones of some sort?
You can do a cam change with the heads on. Remove all the rockers and push rods. Pull the plugs. Before you take the timing chain off rotate the engine over and if your lifter trays are in good shape the lifters will stay up away from the cam. I use a 1/4" metal rod's (2) to make sure the lifters stay up as I remove the old cam and install the new one.

 

Precisely.

Good point on the warranty. Any point in using a thinner head gasket to gain some compression, or am I going to need to compensate in other places like pushrod length, etc?

My Smeding 383 was a factory roller block SBC, and my understanding is that the factory roller lifters (dimensions) are the same between all factory rollers. My Howard's Cams lifters are applicable for 1987-2019, and they are the LS7 style roller ends.

One reason why I'm not concentrating on the cam right now, because I can replace it rather easily down the road in the build.

 

I can't say on the thinner head gaskets. Your LQ9 is already the higher compression version of the 6.0 family. You can buy an adjustable push rod to confirm the required push rod length if you go with a thinner head gasket. I don't think the gains would be much. The other unknown in regards to push rod length is was as the engine was being rebuilt in that process were the heads re-surfaced or block was decked to square everything up?
So as long as I am spending your money maybe a swap to L92 heads? They bolt right on. That would mean a LS3 intake and such. The LS3 intake/injectors and fuel rails might be easier and bit cheaper to find than LS6 intake/injectors and fuel rails.
Having said the above a car buddy of mine has a LQ4/5 speed combo in a 71 Nova. Stock LQ4 with small (215I/220E) cam and it did 400 rwhp on the chassis dyno. Super easy to tune. Runs great. Has over 30k miles on it with zero issues.
In any event I would run a billet converter with about a 2800 stall from someone like Circle or Yank. 3.73 gears with that 4L60E would be just about perfect.
When I did my 71 C3 with LS1/4L60E combo the LS1 was a stock brand new from GM. 2400 stall converter from Yank. 3.73 gears. Ran great and was a hoot to drive.

 

I honestly wouldn't bother with changing anything if it's staying stock or slightly modified with a cam/springs/headers/intake etc.

My LQ4 in my 78 with a small cam and a sheet metal intake made 372rwhp through a loose converter. Stock lifters, stock rocker arms, stock pushrods etc. Revs out to 6700rpm no issue.

 

I'm actually now seriously just looking at popping one of the low-lift Summit cams (.500 lift) in for a mild boost and a tiny bit of lope (.112 LSA) and be done with it. I just keep reading that tuned, headered LQ9s are sleeping monsters and I'm betting that is all I'll need for my DD/Cruiser.

 

They're quick even with a stock cam. I had an LQ4 with just headers and a tune put down 312hp with a restrictive LS1 intake on it. If it had an LS6 intake or even the stock truck intake, it would've made more.

 

@DblTrbl linked a video from this guy in my budget LS build thread. The main takeaway is not cheapness, as the C3 solution will require a few fixes that many swaps do not. The main takeaway is to avoid going down a rabbit hole. Watch it on You
Tube and read the comments, too. They are the polar-opposite of the prevailing sentiment on this Forum.

"Yeah, I'm $10K into my LS build, and I've never heard it run yet."

Don't be that guy. Get it installed, run it, and build another!

 

Yes You can use the popular LS 7 in a SBC. If you have a one-piece rear seal Block, they will drop right in. They can also be used with the earlier Blocks Sloggin Dickey sells a LS style tray that bolts in. Drill and Tap is needed I would want to fit this to a bare unassembled Block. This should also allow Cam changes without removing the Intake like the Ls Engines. I built my last SBC this way.

 

That's cool and all....but where you all getting these 6.0's at? I can't find one here to save my ***......and I want one for my 2010 Silverado to replace the 5.3......just need a damn short block and NADA.....and if you do find one they are like north of $3000......
U-Pick It salvage has a flat engine price....but there is never anything there and the LS's I swear are gone before they hit the lot......
I actually want a 6.2....but it's Unicorn teeth......
But then again....this wasteland down here sure isn't Detroit......

Jebby

 

There's half a dozen on Facebook Marketplace right now, and a few 6.2s.

Lots more if you count high-mileage Tahoes, Yukons, and Escalades that are given away for $2K or so.

You might have to drive a bit further where you are, though.

 

LKQ online is another resource. Just search for the vehicle that featured the engine you're looking for.

 

Got a local guy that parts out 1999+ GM trucks and cars. I usually get a 6.0 with a 2wd 4L80E for $1000-1500 out the door with the stock harness and ecu.

I have a couple tucked away for a rainy day.

 

LKQ wants too much.....
There are some on FB Marketplace......lot of junk though.......there is one aluminum block 09' Escalade engine...I may contact him.....
All I want to do is swap the short block out....freshen it.....gain 60 cubes......with a mild cam, long tubes......and a nice tune.......it would be nice to get my Crew Cab in the 13's.....

Jebby

 

I use car-part.com to search for parts. Local or nation wide.
A local salvage yard has a couple 150K 6.0's for $1000.