1978 anniversary model - fuel pump died. here is the question - how difficult is it to just get rid of the AC system in this car? I have to remove the compressor to access the fuel pump, no other way to get the access that I need. Maybe a more skilled mechanic could do it, but I have struck out repeatedly on finding anyone willing to touch a 1978 corvette in the greater Indianapolis area. So the compressor is completely blocking access to the fuel pump and I really don't need AC, so I am wondering if it is possible to just remove the compressor and delete the system. I want to keep the option to run the heater.

 

Well of course it's quite possible. But you could unbolt the compressor and just set it aside while repaired the fuel pump. I removed mine from my 79, but I replaced it with a unit comparable to the Vintage Air system. I was stripping the interior anyway so no big deal inside, the exterior came off okay but it has been a while. You'll need to fab a block-off plate to the interior. Easiest way is to just remove the compressor and tie the lines aside or cut them off. But you will gain a lot of space with the evap removed..

 

I personally find Air-con a must have in a C3.
none the less, if you wish to delete it. It can be as simple as just removing the compressor and tying the hoses off the side. Or a complete removal of every component, your heater won't be affected.
how much of it you wish to remove is up to you.
Changing the control in the console may be an issue. But on Air-con settings it would just blow vent air.
Or you could get to the fuel pump from below and through the wheel well opening.

 

Remove the front tire first then:
Order a new 'S' hose too.

 

You can delete both, put an electric pump in your tank, and a return-style fuel regulator on the frame rail, and not have to worry about a fuel pump or wiping a lobe ever again. Whatever mechanical fuel pump you buy will probably be trash soon anyway. "They don't make 'em like they used to" (TM).

You can also delete the AC system if you want, but don't do it just for this. Raise the car on jackstands, and pull off the right front wheel, and you can get to the fuel pump with long extensions.

 

RAMPS! secret word: Ramps
Put the front up on ramps. You don't have to remove the front tire.
Fuel Pump removal and install can be done from underneath using a long 3/8" extension on your 3/8 ratchet.

With the front inclined, less fuel will gravity feed the lines when you disconnect also.

As far as the A/C, leave as many parts as possible for the next owner. I removed compressor, belt, hoses. Left the dryer, evaporator, condenser.

 

Try removing the fuel pump on a big block with ac.
As mentioned above, jack the front end up, put a couple of jack stands under it to be safe, and you’ll find all the room you need to remove and replace the fuel pump.
Easy job from under the car.
Getting the hose clamps off can be a hassle if they aren’t the oem style.
Use a 1/4” or 5/16” socket rather than a screwdriver to loosen the aftermarket clamps and you’ll save yourself a ton of frustration.
If you remove the passenger side tire, you’ll open up even more access area.
As stated above, replace the molded S hose and any other rubber hoses while you’re in there.
Don’t forget to use a pair of vice grips and pinch the main rubber fuel hose from the tank so you don’t get a gasoline shower.
Removing the ac is a big job and just removing the compressor could take you longer than swapping the fuel pump.

 

I have the car up on Quickjacks, which is a huge help for getting under it. I had a co-worker who builds racing engines come by and give me a tour of my engine. While he was confident that this would be a straightforward job, even keeping the AC (he recommended that I keep the AC), as I was listening to him explain the different parts of the engine and how it all works it became clear to me that I need to do a lot more reading and work my way up to this. I have been game-planning this for a couple of weeks now, and I have too many uncertainties, mostly about my ability to handle any curve *****. I just don't have the knowledge base yet to get this far into it - especially when there are currently more parts in the engine that I cannot identify than what I can. It is very different from working on a motorcycle and I think I bit off a little more than I can handle at the moment. I am going to find a mechanic that will do this for me, which by the way, in the entire north side of Indianapolis, there is only one that I have found willing to still work on older cars. This is a little concerning too.

 

I work on Motorcycles for living, 6 days a week for 50 years!
Yup! There different! But an internal combustion engine is a internal combustion engine!
Now, if all you ever worked on is a 2 stroke dirt bike???
But Harley engines are extremely similar to Chevy engines!
OK, the old Harley's didn't have fuel pumps or water pumps. But the new ones certainly do!

 

Brown CO Racer,

Well, that's too bad that you "think" you need to farm this out.
It's a very rewarding, educational and money saving perk to be able to work on these old classics. A repair book, simple tool set, easy to find parts are all you need.
Today's YouTube can walk you through about any basic repair needed. And the best part is, you can say you did it yourself.

These cars are old enough that there is not a lot in the way to see the repair needed. Unlike modern cars with sensors, miles of hoses and wiring metric fasteners,
the C3s are pretty straight forward on common "worn-out" parts. Water pump, PS pump, belts and your fuel pump have a few bolts, few gaskets, and you're done!

 

I am a bit intimidated by what I don't know - I plan to change that and learn this inside out, but that will take time. I understand that the best way is to actually just do it, but I am concerned about messing something up. I have the AIM, the service manual, the owner's manual, a Chilton's, and have suscribed to many Youtube videos. I also went to the library to get books on automotive work just to get a broader knowledge. I am totally committed....will see how fast my learning curve is. I really don't have a choice in the long-run because from what I see we are heading to an owner-mechanic situation with these older cars and all my fascination is with the old ones.
I will keep pumping this forum for all its information!

 

Can you post some photos?

You posted as I was typing, but see you've seen a bunch of videos. I'm sure TheCorvetteBen has documented a fuel pump replacement somewhere, if you haven't found his yet.
https://www.youtube.com/@TheCorvetteBen

You have a quickjack and a buddy who can talk you through it. All you need is some time. Can you leave the car in the air in your garage until the project is complete? Address problems if they come up, don't overthink them beforehand. My 79 had the AC intact when I did this. On ramps, too, so I didn't even take the wheel off, which would have made it a lot easier.

 

OP... you got great advice form your friend

OK HERE IS MY TAKE FOR YOU TO DIY...

get correct new hoses.. post plenty of pics of current pump hoses etc...

the BIGGEST concern is that you have to control the fuel and potential for fuel to leak out.. after that you have time to post here and get help and walk thru this.. make sure no ignition source around in case you have accident.. like a water heater gas in garage etc.. heater as its getting cold here in central IN..
here are a few links
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...line-help.html

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...mp-79-l82.html

you do not need to mess with AC.. leave it..

did min eon quickjack.. again plan for gas control and take your time.. including where to put engine rotation and a bolt to hold rod..

 

Fight's Auto Service
4221 S. Butler Ave
Indianapolis 46203 (SE corner of 465)
I know these gentlemen and they wouldn't have a problem. I also have a neighbor (SE side, near Southeastern Av and Emerson Av)that's a lifelong mechanic and self employed. That said, both places stay very busy !!!

 

OP,
As stated by our fellow forum members, You can do this.
Identify the main fuel line from the tank, it should go directly from the metal tubing on the frame to the fuel pump.
Clamp it off with a pair of vice grips and remove the rubber hose from the fuel pump.
You can also just cut it close to the pump.
Screw a bolt into the end of the rubber hose and take the clamp off the pump and clamp the end of the hose with the bolt in it.
Remove the vice grips and make sure there is no fuel dripping.
Now you can take all the time in the world to swap out the fuel pump.
You will get some fuel dripping out of the pump, just catch it in a pan and keep the doors open for ventilation.
Watch some UTube videos and you’ll swap the pump out like a pro.
Since you have a friend who knows engines offer him lunch to watch while you do the work.
If you own a classic car you really need to learn how to do the maintenance, otherwise it will break your bank, paying others to do it for you and they probably won’t do as good of a job as you the novice will.

 

From bottom I can disconnect hoses, but that is about all I can do.
From side well the FP is still sitting below the top suspension arm - not really accessible as AC comp still in way
From top - need to remove AC compressor. I can see the hardware mounting points, but I don't know how to deal with the hose connections. I have not found any source that goes into more detail than just "remove the AC compressor". all the videos I have seen lack an AC.
So, if I get to the point where the fuel pump can be removed, I then put on the new one - but I am seeing multiple times people finding that the new pump does not align with the hard hose going to carb and have to make modifications. This is a bit concerning to me as I am already out over my skis on experience here.

 

I don't understand why the A/C bracket is anywhere near the F.P. I had the same A/C compressor on my SBC and never had any problems getting at the F.P. bolts.

And you need a safer shroud.

 

You really can't reach those bolts with a long extension through the wheel well?

Is your AC pressurized? If it works, leave it alone. Or if you are hell-bent on removing it, be sure to have it evacuated properly before you delete the compressor. If it's not pressurized, perhaps you needed a new compressor anyway, so no great loss.

I'm really surprised you can't get to the fuel pump, though. Are you on jackstands with the wheel removed? You can take off the CAI duct by removing two screws.

 

This kind of article makes me appreciate the old simple 1968 C3 as I can service virtually anything from the top. My fuel pump was very accessible in the original configuration and worked okay. I upgraded to a Holley EFI system and installed a In-Tank Fuel module with the fuel pressure regulator and level sending unit. Today I have 59 p.s.i. in my fuel system and the engine runs great. I totally recommend the in-tank module as it is so nice and quiet.

Hello again 4-vettes,
I too started working on Motorcycles back over 50 years ago. My first real motorcycle was a "BSA 441 Victor" and today I still ride a Yamaha Water-Cooled Two-stroke Twin. Here in the U.S. it was called a RZ-350 but overseas they referred to it as a RD350LC depending on your location. My simple 2 stroke makes close to 70 hp out of a 350cc engine. I can eat most Ducati's as their riders are frequently novices. Between a good solid frame and a revving engine the bike is not for novices or beginners. A lot of the time it seems more like a self powered Unicycle as it likes to stand on the rear tire alone.

I road raced a Bridestone 200cc Motorcycle with the rotary valve on the sides with the carburetors on the ends of the crankshaft. I did ALL the mechanical work on my 200 cc motorcycle and had a lot of fun.

The most challenging motorcycle I worked on and rode was a 1976 Suzuki RE500 which was a 500cc Wankel that displaced 1500 cc's and only 20 mpg highway mileage. 5 gallons fuel tank with 100 mile range, it was cool but not practical. I had an Kawasaki H2 750 that was fast but would bend in the turns. I had a Benelli and many 2 stroke and 4 stroke motorcycles.

The one motorcycle I really hated working on was a 1971 Harley Davidson Sportster that was built with the shifter on the right side and the rear brake on the left side. It was when AMF owned them and the quality was pathetic as was the performance. The car that I dread is the Triumph Spitfire as they too were designed by people who did not understand electricity or electrical systems. I have a friend who had a BSA 650 and one night we were riding along in the pitch dark and at 55 mph the headlight and engine just randomly shut off causing my buddy to have a nasty crash. Good Old Lucas, The Prince of DARKNESS!

 

In the time it took to take all those photos and post them as well as the explaination....you could have removed the compressor, swung it out of the way, removed the pump and cleaned up everything around it......which it could use a good cleaning......and while you are down there, replace the "S" hose as mentioned....
If this is throwing you a curve, you are going to have a long rough time owning a C3 Vette......sorry for sounding critical....but it is hard truth.
Performing just about any kind of service on a new car requires about 3x as much stuff to remove and swing out of the way before you can perform the job......
I myself would not be able to help myself and would go painting and detailing everything......once removed.....

Jebby