Dropping the sump
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,276
Likes: 337
From: "ɹǝpunuʍop", Adelaide, South Australia
Dropping the sump
My 350 rear main has been leaking for a long while, so this xmas holiday break i'm going to replace it.
Yes i know to remove the steering idler arm, but i remember hearing/reading somewhere to put the crank in a certain position to enable the sump to be maneuvered off easier.
Can someone tell the me the position it needs to be? ie: timing mark in approx what position.
Yes i know to remove the steering idler arm, but i remember hearing/reading somewhere to put the crank in a certain position to enable the sump to be maneuvered off easier.
Can someone tell the me the position it needs to be? ie: timing mark in approx what position.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 13,177
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From: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
2025 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
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Cruise-In VIII Veteran
As you probably know, I've had my oil pan off many, many times in an attempt to stop the leak at my rear main seal. I've posted about it many times on here. Even bought a new pan about 3 try's ago.
Although nothing has stopped the leak. This last try has it at a low roar at least, and yes I have another new gasket and seal sitting here in a box. But have delt with other issues lately as a low roar is about the best I've gotten it in years.
Anyway, my point is, with as many times that I have had the pan off, and never having heard of putting the crank in any specific position. I'm fairly certain I've taken it on and off in most likely every possible position. And never noticed any issues. Ever.
I knock the tapper on my idler arm. Some unbolt it from the frame. And I undo the rod of the steering ram from the frame bracket. Thus lowering the drag link down. The pan goes down and forward and out.
Pretty easy.
Never heard of putting the crank in a special place. Nor understand why.
Although nothing has stopped the leak. This last try has it at a low roar at least, and yes I have another new gasket and seal sitting here in a box. But have delt with other issues lately as a low roar is about the best I've gotten it in years.
Anyway, my point is, with as many times that I have had the pan off, and never having heard of putting the crank in any specific position. I'm fairly certain I've taken it on and off in most likely every possible position. And never noticed any issues. Ever.
I knock the tapper on my idler arm. Some unbolt it from the frame. And I undo the rod of the steering ram from the frame bracket. Thus lowering the drag link down. The pan goes down and forward and out.
Pretty easy.
Never heard of putting the crank in a special place. Nor understand why.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,809
From: Cool Northern Michigan
riverracer,
Sometimes the forward counter weight on the crank is hanging straight down. An unsuspecting owner gets frustrated because the pan drops down ok but refuses to come off.
A simple "jog" of the IGN key will put the counterweight in the upward position.
The idler arm should have two carriage type of bolts thru the frame. Remove the two nuts, slide the bolts out and the entire steering apparatus will drop down.
Very easily.
You may want to consider an Oil Pan Stud Kit. Makes pan installing s-o-o-o-o-o- much easier.
Sometimes the forward counter weight on the crank is hanging straight down. An unsuspecting owner gets frustrated because the pan drops down ok but refuses to come off.
A simple "jog" of the IGN key will put the counterweight in the upward position.
The idler arm should have two carriage type of bolts thru the frame. Remove the two nuts, slide the bolts out and the entire steering apparatus will drop down.
Very easily.
You may want to consider an Oil Pan Stud Kit. Makes pan installing s-o-o-o-o-o- much easier.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Dec 22, 2023 at 08:14 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,521
Likes: 1,956
From: Temple Terrace Florida
If I remember correctly, clock the crank to 5 o'clock with the timing mark. It will put the most forward counter weight in the up position. Also, let the oil drain for at least 24 hours or you will get oil in your hair. Jerry
Safety Car
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 4,747
Likes: 1,642
From: Fairfax Virginia
I have a rear main seal that was replaced by a Corvette shop and it hasn't dripped in 25+ years. My entire 427 does not drip any oil as I keep card board underneath the engine to be sure.
What is the cause of your leaky rear main seal on a Corvette in the first place? On many cars the cause can be worn main bearings allowing excessive Longitudinal Crankshaft movement (End-play) which wears out the seals. The only fix was to rebuild the engines when the rear main seal started leaking on your Clutch assembly.
What is the cause of your leaky rear main seal on a Corvette in the first place? On many cars the cause can be worn main bearings allowing excessive Longitudinal Crankshaft movement (End-play) which wears out the seals. The only fix was to rebuild the engines when the rear main seal started leaking on your Clutch assembly.
