upper control arm removal
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,699
Likes: 270
From: New York
upper control arm removal
I have a 1969 Corvette. I want to remove the upper control arms.
Can I just separate the ball joint and then remove the alignment bolts?
If the car is on the ground, the spring and rest of the suspension should stay put with the shock in place. Or is this my making it too easy.
Can I just separate the ball joint and then remove the alignment bolts?
If the car is on the ground, the spring and rest of the suspension should stay put with the shock in place. Or is this my making it too easy.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,382
Likes: 1,801
From: Apple Valley, MN
Theoretically you should be able to do it but you need to be extremely cautious as once you have the joint separated, you have a grenade with the pin pulled until you reassemble. Think it through carefully beforehand so you know exactly what you will do and anticipate any potential problems.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,699
Likes: 270
From: New York
Theoretically you should be able to do it but you need to be extremely cautious as once you have the joint separated, you have a grenade with the pin pulled until you reassemble. Think it through carefully beforehand so you know exactly what you will do and anticipate any potential problems.
Let me add I have the F-41 spring. It is one inch shorter and I can lower the lower conrol arm and the spring isn't loaded and just falls out. The stock spring is another issue.
Looking at the suspension, the spring will be contained in the tower with the shock connect too in the tower. Once the ball joint is separated, I should be able to lift the arm and after I remove the alignment shim bolts, just take it off.
What am I missing? As you correctly point out, I hate surprises.
Old Pro Solo Guy
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 8,016
Likes: 4,371
From: Marlton NJ
Don't do it with weight on the tires.
If you keep weight on the tire, you will get a sudden shift as the tire rotates on the spindle, under the cars weight.
You would not want to get your hand caught in there.
I would think a much safer way would be to support the weight of the car with some blocks or jacks under the a-arms.
Then the springs are trapped and the car and lower a-arm can not move.
Then you can even take the tire off, for better access.
But primarily the spindle can rotate easily with no weight or pressure on it.
You will need to move the spindle a little bit by hand to get the upper a-arm over the bolts.
If you keep weight on the tire, you will get a sudden shift as the tire rotates on the spindle, under the cars weight.
You would not want to get your hand caught in there.
I would think a much safer way would be to support the weight of the car with some blocks or jacks under the a-arms.
Then the springs are trapped and the car and lower a-arm can not move.
Then you can even take the tire off, for better access.
But primarily the spindle can rotate easily with no weight or pressure on it.
You will need to move the spindle a little bit by hand to get the upper a-arm over the bolts.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,334
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
There's no way I'd try to leave it on the tires, as soon as that upper balljoint is out the top of the tire is going to head inwards and probably forwards at full gravity speed 
Block the lower control arm with the tire slightly off the ground and even then I'd want something to fix that block to the lower arm
M
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,699
Likes: 270
From: New York
Got it. Great. The only thing about the shims....
I have the Guldstrand offset solid control arm bushings. They were not properly installed to maximize castor. So I'll remove the arms, press out, re-install properly and then have the vechicle aligned.
Thanks to all!!
I have the Guldstrand offset solid control arm bushings. They were not properly installed to maximize castor. So I'll remove the arms, press out, re-install properly and then have the vechicle aligned.
Thanks to all!!
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Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,444
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
I have a 1969 Corvette. I want to remove the upper control arms.
Can I just separate the ball joint and then remove the alignment bolts?
If the car is on the ground, the spring and rest of the suspension should stay put with the shock in place. Or is this my making it too easy.
Can I just separate the ball joint and then remove the alignment bolts?
If the car is on the ground, the spring and rest of the suspension should stay put with the shock in place. Or is this my making it too easy.
I disconnect the upper shock nut to keep the spring from flying out. Whack the ball joint area to pop the ball joint out and then just lower the floor Jack and in your case with the shorter spring is easier. Remove the upper cross shaft nuts and it's out. I use a big air hammer with a chisel end to knock the bushing out.
I don't like using a press because its easy to bend the aarm
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,699
Likes: 270
From: New York
I did it that way the first time I removed them. However, those bushings could not have been re-installed. I was hoping to reuse these solid offset bushings. I am not sure where I could get another set as Guldstrand parts are long gone.
Last edited by cottoneg; Jan 14, 2024 at 10:29 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,444
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
The hole is longer and removing the red area material gives you more thread for the shims. I run about 6 caster, Zero toe, and .56 neg camber for my 295 width front racing tires
Last edited by gkull; Jan 14, 2024 at 10:27 AM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,699
Likes: 270
From: New York
You are a talented machinist . I am not.
The offset bushing, properly installed in the control arm will hopefully help get more than the 3 degrees I have now.
You touched on something I was considering. Longer studs. My friend recommended longer hardened wheel studs. Question: Does anyone know of a racing wheel stub that would be longer and a direct replacement and longer than stock??
The offset bushing, properly installed in the control arm will hopefully help get more than the 3 degrees I have now.
You touched on something I was considering. Longer studs. My friend recommended longer hardened wheel studs. Question: Does anyone know of a racing wheel stub that would be longer and a direct replacement and longer than stock??
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,444
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
You are a talented machinist . I am not.
The offset bushing, properly installed in the control arm will hopefully help get more than the 3 degrees I have now.
You touched on something I was considering. Longer studs. My friend recommended longer hardened wheel studs. Question: Does anyone know of a racing wheel stub that would be longer and a direct replacement and longer than stock??
The offset bushing, properly installed in the control arm will hopefully help get more than the 3 degrees I have now.
You touched on something I was considering. Longer studs. My friend recommended longer hardened wheel studs. Question: Does anyone know of a racing wheel stub that would be longer and a direct replacement and longer than stock??
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,699
Likes: 270
From: New York
I was referring to the stubs that hold the alignment shims. I know they can be replaced with something longer.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,334
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
Back in the barbaric stock-car days we used to just use two bolts tack welded in place. I think if I did it now in my ever-so-slightly enlightened days I'd weld the heads to a strip of metal to prevent them from being able to rotate and not the frame itself... maybe
M
M
Last edited by Mooser; Jan 14, 2024 at 02:35 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,444
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Sorry, I wasn't clear. I also have 1/2-inch heavy duty stud for the wheels. I learned my lesson years ago when the rim came off the rear drivers side and passed me on the right.
I was referring to the stubs that hold the alignment shims. I know they can be replaced with something longer.
I was referring to the stubs that hold the alignment shims. I know they can be replaced with something longer.
No, i'm not a talented machinist. I took 4 years of metal shop and a couple of years of welding in High school. I just have access to several nice vertical mills and ask real machinists how to jig it up and what kind of bits to use and what cutting speeds! LOL If you took those drawings and pictures to any machine shop they could whip them out for you.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 673
spc a arms
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 134
Likes: 22
From: Houston, Texas
My engine is out of the car, so no weight to help with the spring compression.
If I were to replace the shock with a piece of all thread of the right length, properly anchored top and bottom, would it be safe to remove the upper a-arm? Or, maybe even use the shaft of the store rental compressor in place of the shock to hold the spring pressure?
Sure would like to replace the uppers while the engine (and radiator) is out.
Thanks in advance, sorry for the hijack. But it seemed the thread was over and might get the same folks to chime in since they are familiar.
If I were to replace the shock with a piece of all thread of the right length, properly anchored top and bottom, would it be safe to remove the upper a-arm? Or, maybe even use the shaft of the store rental compressor in place of the shock to hold the spring pressure?
Sure would like to replace the uppers while the engine (and radiator) is out.
Thanks in advance, sorry for the hijack. But it seemed the thread was over and might get the same folks to chime in since they are familiar.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 2,156
Likes: 273
From: Dunedin NZ.
My engine is out of the car, so no weight to help with the spring compression.
If I were to replace the shock with a piece of all thread of the right length, properly anchored top and bottom, would it be safe to remove the upper a-arm? Or, maybe even use the shaft of the store rental compressor in place of the shock to hold the spring pressure?
Sure would like to replace the uppers while the engine (and radiator) is out.
Thanks in advance, sorry for the hijack. But it seemed the thread was over and might get the same folks to chime in since they are familiar.
If I were to replace the shock with a piece of all thread of the right length, properly anchored top and bottom, would it be safe to remove the upper a-arm? Or, maybe even use the shaft of the store rental compressor in place of the shock to hold the spring pressure?
Sure would like to replace the uppers while the engine (and radiator) is out.
Thanks in advance, sorry for the hijack. But it seemed the thread was over and might get the same folks to chime in since they are familiar.