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68 327 auto battery died hard

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Old Jan 18, 2024 | 09:24 PM
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Default 68 327 auto battery died hard

I'll cut to the chase. Started my cars last week prior to the deep freeze. My 68 started and ran fine. Put the tender back on it. After a few days, the light didn't go green. So I opened the door to see if the light went on. It did. Checked every day and the tender never went green. Today with somewhat sane weather, I went to start it. Nothing. My multi meter was reading in milli volts if that's even possible. So I hooked my booster to it. 1000 amps. Didn't even act like it was connected. So convinced the battery is dead beyond. Owned the car since August. No issues so far. Been using the tender since late September and starting it every week. The booster is good. Used it already on another car. I double checked that it was engaged in park. Something drained this thing hard is my thought. Anyone have suggestions? Could a tender do this? What would be common issues with an early C3 to cause it? I'm going to pull the battery and check it out if the car. If it's this dead I would hate to hook a charger to it in the car. A battery this dead isn't likely to hold a charge long term anyway but just to see if I can get it to start. Hopefully someone has been down this road with an early C3 before and can shed insight. It would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Old Jan 18, 2024 | 09:37 PM
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After writing this and reading it I have some thoughts. I've NEVER seen a battery this low. With the booster not even acting like it was hooked up could say that there was no solid connection. Negative battery cable connection under the car? Could it be that simple?
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Old Jan 18, 2024 | 09:43 PM
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Only experience I had like this was when I was checking something with the key in the on position and I forgot to move it back to off and remove the key. After 3 days, battery was dead, tried to charge it, only could get it to about 8 V. Took it in to have it charged and checked and they could get it to about 10. They said a cell in the battery was dead. But I had it in the on position and with nothing on. Something drained my battery, still don't know what, but I put a new one in and have been good to go. '72
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Old Jan 18, 2024 | 09:48 PM
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Hmm. When I put in the key, I noticed that the outer bezel wasn't completely in the vertical position. But that doesn't necessarily mean the switch was not off.
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Old Jan 18, 2024 | 11:19 PM
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First, how old is your battery? My Battery tender is the 4 Amp Model and I believe that it will not charge anything below 4 volts (I think). I had a 4 year old battery in my Pontiac that would not every complete the charge. After a day or so one of the LEDs on the Battery Tender started flashing, I looked in the manual and it said the led coming on meant the battery was toast. If your battery is old two years old, take to one of the chain auto parts stores and they can hook up a machine that will test the battery 10 different ways. Batteries can cause all kinds of trouble. Years ago my son had a two year old Mustang V8. The alternator stop working, so I buy a replacement, it was easy to replace as the alternator was on the front of the engine. I replaced the alternator, then connected the wires (a electrical plug that only went on one way). I go to attach the battery and sparks start to fly. Now, remember there was no way to connect the wires to the alternator wrong, the plug would only go into its receiver one way. After a while, I called the Ford Dealer and had the car towed in, they called me the next day. They said the battery had a shorted cell, they installed a new battery, and told me to come get the car. Batteries will do strange things.
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Old Jan 18, 2024 | 11:49 PM
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goodness.
unhook bat, check for volts.
bats fail. cold weather kills them.

keep it simple
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Old Jan 19, 2024 | 02:20 AM
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Did you by any chance try using the wipers and interrupt them before they parked? Your 68 has a goofball wiper circuit and if you interrupt the wipers at the wrong time the wiper door solenoid stays energized (yes, even if the key is off).
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Old Jan 19, 2024 | 08:16 AM
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I don't use battery tenders. I DO use battery disconnects (even on my new-ish truck). You just discovered why.

Pull the battery out to test/charge before something really bad happens. What is a 1000 Amp booster?
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Old Jan 19, 2024 | 09:24 AM
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Thanks for all the replies. I did check battery voltage and it was doa. I do plan on taking it out today so I can test it. The battery does not look that old. I did not see a date on it but it reasonably could be a few years old. My 1000 amp booster is the NOCO GB40. I've been using a tender on my 14 for 4.5 years and on the 99 forever and have had no issues. I did not use the wipers the last time I started it. Just cycled through the gears and turned on the lights. I will update the status of this as I work towards a resolution. I do appreciate all the feedback and keep it coming.
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Old Jan 19, 2024 | 09:46 AM
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Before pulling the juice-box, you need to isolate what the issue truly is.
Is there a bad GRD at the frame?
Or, is there truly a "parasitic draw".

To find out if there is a constant draw, the battery should be in place.
Use an Ohm Meter between NEG post & NEG cable and see if something is running (besides the dome light) all the time.
Often these hidden gremlins can draw quite a bit of amperage w/o even knowing it.

Compartment light?
Wiper relay?
Alarm system?
Stereo system?
Spare tire carrier light?
Diode in the ALT?
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Old Jan 19, 2024 | 09:47 AM
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Why are you starting the car? Leave it connected to a battery maintainer, typically puts out around 1+ amps and monitors charge of battery and adjusts output accordingly. I use Deltran, batteries are good for 7 to 8 years in my experience.
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Old Jan 19, 2024 | 09:51 AM
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^^^^ This ^^^^

Used Deltran for years, zero issues. You don't need to run them 24 / 7.

I have mine plugged into a wall outlet timer. Runs a half hr a day.
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Old Jan 19, 2024 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
Before pulling the juice-box, you need to isolate what the issue truly is.
Is there a bad GRD at the frame?
Or, is there truly a "parasitic draw".

To find out if there is a constant draw, the battery should be in place.
Use an Ohm Meter between NEG post & NEG cable and see if something is running (besides the dome light) all the time.
Often these hidden gremlins can draw quite a bit of amperage w/o even knowing it.

Compartment light?
Wiper relay?
Alarm system?
Stereo system?
Spare tire carrier light?
Diode in the ALT?
I am going to check the ground on the frame when I remove the battery and do the drain check before I do. It does not have an alarm system but I replaced the radio back in September. If I get a drain, I'll start with the radio fuse. I have a hunch about the alternator too so I planned on removing the connection if I see a draw. Starting my cars occasionally is my preference as I've been doing this for 19 years with my C5. Obviously I am dealing with a old car this year as well.
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Old Jan 19, 2024 | 03:51 PM
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Check #1, battery to frame ground.


Check #3 the starter brace to frame ground.
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Old Jan 19, 2024 | 05:53 PM
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Thanks Peterbuilt. I am aware of the location of the ground underneath the battery but didn't suspect to check the starter. I will do so regardless. When I went to pull the battery the dome light came on very dim. Instead of milli volts it's now reading 5.35. I took the battery out. The cables and terminals look good. Going to charge the battery. There is no date on it but it could be 3 years old. At this point I will get a new one. Just want to see if it holds a charge. I don't think I will be checking these grounds until it warms up. The draw from the negative cable did not make me think I have a short. My guess is the grounds. I will keep you posted but anything else is appreciated.
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Old Jan 19, 2024 | 06:12 PM
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Don't forget that when conducting an Amp Draw Test to use a piece of wood and jam the dome light switch inward when door is open.
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Old Jan 19, 2024 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
Don't forget that when conducting an Amp Draw Test to use a piece of wood and jam the dome light switch inward when door is open.
Or close the door.
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Old Jan 20, 2024 | 06:27 AM
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There a few things that kill a 68 battery....the center glove box light will kill the battery if its left unlatched or just not latched tight enough, ..

just bumping the wiper override with your knee will activate it and kill your battery, doesnt matter if you were running them or not, .....

and the act of starting the car and not running the rpm up high enough to excite a charge and not running it long enough to charge....

Put in a battery disconnect or you will be chasing problems as long as you own it. Its better to get in and drive than get out to jump it
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Old Jan 20, 2024 | 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Rescue Rogers
There a few things that kill a 68 battery....the center glove box light will kill the battery if its left unlatched or just not latched tight enough, ..

just bumping the wiper override with your knee will activate it and kill your battery, doesnt matter if you were running them or not, .....

and the act of starting the car and not running the rpm up high enough to excite a charge and not running it long enough to charge....

Put in a battery disconnect or you will be chasing problems as long as you own it. Its better to get in and drive than get out to jump it
Thanks R. R. I did not touch the center compartment but this is a good idea to check anyway. I will check the wiper override as I am tall and have to play contortionist to get in the car. I always give the car some rpm when I start it. Where would you suggest a battery disconnect to be located in the system? I've thought about doing this before now I have my excuse. Thank you again.
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Old Jan 20, 2024 | 08:26 PM
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Mine is in between the seats so i can get to it easily..you can put it in the battery compartment or the jack compartment if you go with a big lever. If you get the battery cable post type it solves that question. It depends on your needs and it will demand wiring, new crimps for the cables, a good crimp tool. Harbor freight has a good hydraulic one, amazon probably does too.

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