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2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Ball Joint Replacement Questions
I suspect that it is time to bite the bullet and think about replacing the ball joints on my '78. In fact, I have a set of Moog items!
However, my hope is to do this without removing the A-Arms from the car. My Haynes manual does outline a process, but seems to employ a strange tool for ball joint separation, which I don't have. I have a couple of "traditional" ball joint separators (a "pickle fork and a lever arm tool). So, my question is, is it possible or feasible to replace the ball joints with the A-Arms in situ? And if so, does anyone have a "step-by-step" guide or hints on what to do and what not to do?
No issues what so ever replacing a ball joint or all of them with the A arms in place.
Step 1. Throw your aftermarket manual in the bin!
Step 2. Purchase a Genuine G.M. service manual for your year car. (This will give you the step by step your looking for).
Step 3. You can use a pickle fork as you don't care if you destroy the old joint. But a ball joint tool is much nicer.
4, if your joints are original you will need to grind off a couple rivets. A die grinder with a small cut off wheel works great.
some jackstands and a floorjack along with a die grinder and a ball joint tool and your in. Basic tools like wrenches, hammer and punches will also be needed.
Then on to a alignment.
I had to replace my power steering control valve. I tried to do it with a pickle fork. When I couldn't get off, I remembered a post I read on this site and purchased: 3/4" Forged Ball Joint Separator (harborfreight.com)
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Originally Posted by cottoneg
I had to replace my power steering control valve. I tried to do it with a pickle fork. When I couldn't get off, I remembered a post I read on this site and purchased: 3/4" Forged Ball Joint Separator (harborfreight.com)
It worked like a charm.
Yes, that's the sort of thing I have here, but a UK made item that's now about 50 years old!
I actually successfully used my pickle fork on the P/S valve job, but wasn't sure it would work on the ball joints.
I'll see if I can find the GM instructions on line - the manual is not the easiest thing to come by here!😱 The Haynes manual has been fine for 32 years, but their method for the ball joints is a bit strange!😄
It's pretty easy, put the front end on jack stands, put a jack under the A-arm, separate the ball joint from the knuckle, drill out the ball joints rivet's from the A-arm, put in new balljoints.
Use a sharp punch on each rivet to mark the center, use good sharp drill bits and make sure to drill in the center of the rivet. You can often separate the balljoint from the knuckle with a couple good smacks with a hammer.
Yes I did all 4 of mine in a very tiny one car garage with 2 jackstands and one small floorjack. I like to grind the rivet flush and then punch them out. Both methods work. My method requires great care not to grind the A arm itself.
drilling them on the car might be a bit more work but much less chance of damaging the arm.
And almost all my tools are 50 years old and older. Most likely much better than tools purchased today!
Yes, that's the sort of thing I have here, but a UK made item that's now about 50 years old!
I actually successfully used my pickle fork on the P/S valve job, but wasn't sure it would work on the ball joints.
I'll see if I can find the GM instructions on line - the manual is not the easiest thing to come by here!😱 The Haynes manual has been fine for 32 years, but their method for the ball joints is a bit strange!😄
I have the GM illustrated parts manual, which has good exploded drawings. If it's any help, I can email you any of the pages you need.
As another guy said, if you're replacing the ball joints anyway, use your pickle fork.
I'm just starting to to replace all of the A arm bushings, (for the next controle technique), and am going to replace all four ball joints while I'm at it. The car has 129,000 miles on it, so I may as well.
Foe our American friends, here in France, a classic car, (over 30 years old and registered as a classic), has to have a safety inspection every five years. Most of the inspectors are pretty sympathetic and will allow some, um, wiggle room.
I suspect that it is time to bite the bullet and think about replacing the ball joints on my '78. In fact, I have a set of Moog items!
However, my hope is to do this without removing the A-Arms from the car. My Haynes manual does outline a process, but seems to employ a strange tool for ball joint separation, which I don't have. I have a couple of "traditional" ball joint separators (a "pickle fork and a lever arm tool). So, my question is, is it possible or feasible to replace the ball joints with the A-Arms in situ? And if so, does anyone have a "step-by-step" guide or hints on what to do and what not to do?
Thanks!
here is 79 manual, should be same?
my experience is the lowers wear much more than uppers so maybe only replace from inspection noted?
otherwise i would put in new bushings and all ball joints unless bushings are in great shape..
bushings make a shocking difference if worn and you drive a lot by beautiful pics..
bushings can fail inspection too.
hell springs are cheap too 😆..
here is my thread if helpful https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...rs-method.html
Worth a look. Indeed.
To say they will be worn as well isn't likely.
Twice now I've replaced A arm bushings in my now 47 year old car. It never needed them and no improvement of any kind was realised either time.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Thanks for all the info guys! I take the points about the A-arms, but I have looked long and hard at what I can see and there is no indication that anything is worn to the point of needing replacement, so I'm crossing my fingers!
The work may not happen quite as soon as I\d planned as a few things have cropped up here that may restrict my time a little, but we'll see....
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Originally Posted by hdeyong
I have the GM illustrated parts manual, which has good exploded drawings. If it's any help, I can email you any of the pages you need.
As another guy said, if you're replacing the ball joints anyway, use your pickle fork.
I'm just starting to to replace all of the A arm bushings, (for the next controle technique), and am going to replace all four ball joints while I'm at it. The car has 129,000 miles on it, so I may as well.
Foe our American friends, here in France, a classic car, (over 30 years old and registered as a classic), has to have a safety inspection every five years. Most of the inspectors are pretty sympathetic and will allow some, um, wiggle room.
hdeyong, I tried to drop you a PM, but it "bounced". Can I get in touch?
here is 79 manual, should be same?
my experience is the lowers wear much more than uppers so maybe only replace from inspection noted?
otherwise i would put in new bushings and all ball joints unless bushings are in great shape..
bushings make a shocking difference if worn and you drive a lot by beautiful pics..
bushings can fail inspection too.
hell springs are cheap too 😆..
here is my thread if helpful https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...rs-method.html
That's really useful, thanks very much.
One of the best things about this website is the camaraderie.
Thanks for all the info guys! I take the points about the A-arms, but I have looked long and hard at what I can see and there is no indication that anything is worn to the point of needing replacement, so I'm crossing my fingers!
The work may not happen quite as soon as I\d planned as a few things have cropped up here that may restrict my time a little, but we'll see....
Have you seen the Moog page on testing for worn b-joints? https://www.moog-suspension-parts.co...all-joints.asp
You're basically lifting the lower a-arm to see if either joint shows any vertical movement in the joint itself.
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Ball Joint Replacement Questions
