I have an 82 vette with a stock 85amp alternator that just went out. Want to upgrade to atleast a 120 -150amp. Have electric fans, a decent sound system, and fixing to upgrade the headlights to electric in tne near future. Whats a direct drop in alternator that i can get in that amperage rating and whats the simplest way to do the ground and power cables upgrade? Dont feel like modifying any alternator or rewiring anything. If it aint possible i will just get another 85amp alternator. Thanks

 

Brown Bandit
Find the 140-amp cs-144 that you want. Per this forum the 1996 Impala 5.7L is one recommended option. Here is one: https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...ext=alternator

Buy this adapter. https://www.thepartsplaceinc.com/pro...ternator/97774

Swap the v-belt pulley from your present alternator to the CS-144.

Plug it all in and go.

Since you wanted it simple and no wiring changes.... there you go ..... might have to use a bolt and nut on the top hole of the new alternator.

PS- there are probably multiple different options to find a cheaper adapter and and cheaper alternator but you said you just wanted it simple.

 

Simple, tuff stuff makes a USA made 140 amp S10/S12 style alternator. Direct bolt in. No mods of any kind necessary for mounting. Upgrade the main power wire, well, yes. But that's it.

 

Going to a 140amp alternator is worthless unless you run a separate thick gauge power point to run all of the stereo and fans off of....the stock wiring is no where near robust enough to handle those kind of amps.......I assume you have already done this....and ran a thick gauge wire to the pos bat terminal at the starter for the battery.......there are several ways to skin this cat.....but just make sure you have plenty of amp potential everywhere on circuits of heavy draw.....

Jebby

 

I went with a CS144 for my 82. My TPI swap Post #77. It's is a minimal amount of work to change. I connected the electric cooling fans to the battery terminal of the alternator. If you're car was ETR radio option, stock power/ground is adequate.

 

Before i read all the stuff i could find on alternator upgrade i put a one wire alt on my 76 l 82...should read instructions first they tell me...lol..do i run a 10 gauge wire from alt to starter??do i leave anything else unhooked besides the old alt plug..confused

 

Cant seem to find the 140a alternator with the plain finish. All i find are polished and chrome.

 

For the ground cable i can make a cable and ground it from the case of the alternator and attach it to the frame or engine block right. As for the power cable run another cable from the alternator power terminal and run it all the way to the positive post to the battery correct.

 

Dumb question but im gonna aska anyway, the adapter you posted only has one wire. My original connector has 2 wires. Why is that?

 

10 gauge wont carry much current you need at least a 4awg or lower (6 may work if supplementing the original wiring like I did.).. I ran mine from my alternator to the starter terminal and powered my 2 rad fans from 2 10awg wires going from the same starter terminal to inline fuses to the fans.( well I used breakers but due to heat causing false tripping id go with fuses if I did it again) I bought a cheap $80 chrome ebay high output alternator I had to repair right after I got it so YMMV.. It has worked fine though for like 8 years now even at idle with lights and such on.

 

Thank you for the comeback...that seems simple enough for my mind!!

 

Just for General Knowledge I suggest that people consider buying "Marine" Grade wire sold at most Boat Stores. When I upgraded the alternator I ran a #4 wire but being the Marine Grade the wire was easy to shape and install. Once you have the new end on the wire you can crimp it and then dip it in a solder pot or using a torch you heat the wire up and apply solder to the wire. I have a small solder pot but they are really wonderful when working with battery wires. Then when the connection is finished I use Marine Grade Heat Shrink Tubing to seal the connector. The regular car grade is different then the Marine grade. The Marine grade has a heat activated GLUE inside the tubing, this allows it to seal very well and prevent air from getting in making corrosion. The Marine Grade is indeed a great "improvement" over the standard auto parts we normally would use

When I upgraded my alternator but I had just installed a Dual 11" SPAL fans Electric Fans and a Holley E.F.I. system with basic stereo that I don't use. I am using a Deep Cycle battery in my C3 and I have never had any problems with it running low. The Holley dash board has vehicle voltage displayed and an alarm when it drops out of range.

The wire I made went from the alternator Output to the Starter motor Positive Post. I then verified that the voltage of the battery was the same measured between Starter motor and engine block. Be sure to avoid routing any power wires near the EFI sensors, inputs and especially heat.

 

You just reminded me I need to buy a solder pot!!!!! LOL

Jebby

 

Methinks that's a generic image. Here you go:

 

The link I sent you from autozone is plain and not chromed. https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...ext=alternator

 

Not worth the effort if converting anyway. A 12si is not good enough to maintain terminal voltage at idle if you have much more than stock loads.
I replaced my 94-amp 12si with a 140-amp CS-144 because of that. It worked wonderfully otherwise. I still have it in case I need to use it but it is less than adequate.

 

I was asking about the tuff stuff alternator. The direct replacement that doenst need the adpater cable. Cant seem to find that particular one in the plain finish.

 

I bought mine through Summit racing. I also converted to 3 wire operation, a simple 2 dollar rectifier was all that was needled. Please check out "madelectrical"'s Web site, on the top of there home page is a bar "tech pages " click on that. They explain very well how to upgrade our earlier cars. They explain the difference between 1 and 3 wire alternators. A very good read. And written for a beginner.

 

Here you go-

Clean and simple. Do not run the wire from the alternator to the starter without fusing it!!! You will have all 700+A of the battery running through that wire-
across the engine. If it shorts out- it will make a fiery but peaceful mess!!! I like the idea of fusing at the battery as well.

You pick the fuse size for the MAXIMUM current the wire can handle- it's OK to go smaller -but don't put a fuse larger than the wires max capacity- another fire hazard,
AND every time you drop down in wire size - fuse there. Say you are running a wire to an audio amplifier- the Amp has a fuse- you will still need to fuse the wire running to the amp!
Oh- picking out which wire to under the hood- Do NOT use "primary" wire sold at the autoparts store. It's only rated at 180º. Use the SXL type as it is rated at 256º - and that type has a thicker insulator.
Another rule of thumb- go up one size wire than required (down in GA) when running underhood do to the heat adding resistance.

 

I will run a 4 ga wire from alt to starter with 100 amp fuse in between them and wire it per your diagram...