Another post different topic

So I have a 71 C3 convertible 383 stroker frame off restoration almost everything new or rebuilt. Prior owner dumped it during divorce and threw rest of motor together (pumps, alternator, etc) to get it running and forgot power steering pump fluid and I am sure it was ran that way a little. Engine is probably just broken in not sure how many miles since the build. Looks like a new/newer pump. So how do I know if the pump is shot and what would you guys do? I have alternator and water pump off right now anyway so wondering do I need to tear this thing out too? Frickin' rabbit hole lol

 

You could disconnect the lines away from the pump, and try to flush the pump with some fresh fluid. Send it into a clean bucket, and look for sparkly bits. If the pump is damaged, you don't want it to contaminate the rest of the system.

Or since you are halfway there anyway, you could replace the pump, or just convert to manual steering.

 

Funny you mention it - since I have deleted everything else I was thinking maybe I should just remove the power steering too. It doesn't seem to be working anyway and easy enough to turn without it. I did ac delete, removed the air box and converted lights/wiper cover to electric, and doesn't even have power windows. Maybe just get rid the last power assisted item??

Would be great to here some opinions on just removing it

 

You might want to start a new thread to get more attention to your new question.

I converted my 80 to manual steering, using OEM parts. I needed to replace the drag link with one from a manual-steering car (you cannot use your power steering valve for this), and the pitman arm with a manual steering pitman arm (these are reproduced, fortunately). And I had @GTR1999 rebuild my steering box.

Not a hard swap, but the parts add up. A Borgeson conversion would have cost me the same, which is what I did in my wife's 79. Two different cars, two different approaches.

 

Hello there Bikespace!

I see that you appear to not care for the Power Steering systems used in our C3's, what made you feel so strongly? Personally I have never liked the Recirculating Ball Power Steering systems unless they are in a brand new vehicle. Having a special self contained Hydraulic system just to make the car steer easier doesn't make a lot of sense either.

Many years ago I switched the type of steering systems my 1968 C3 from the Factory "Power Steering" to a "Power Rack and Pinion" kit from Steeroids. It is almost as tight as my 1988 C4 but not quite. In the C4 the Power Steering is necessary for the car as the wide front and rear tires (275-17) make it hard to steer allowing you to make tight turns.

In the continuous effort of helping my C3 BB loose "some" (lots of) weight I have been toying with switching to an Electric Power Steering System and then I can rid my engine of all that crap associated with the hydraulic power steering.

Bikespace I hope I did not offend you as I was not trying to do that. I love the feel of each Corvette I have driven, I like going fast but I insist that stopping fast is a higher priority. With all the news of the increasing rate of the Car-Jacking's in the Washington DC/NoVa area I am getting more hesitant to take use them for fun.
Having a manual makes it much harder for these fools. What do we do, put in 15 second timers before shutdown?

 

Hey OP, we've had a '72 with ps and 225 size tires, and our '68 bb has manual steering and 260 size tires. The '72 was ezpz. When moving the '68 in tight spaces and not really moving much, it's a beast. If I move a bit it's not so bad, and at anything over 5 mph or so I really like the feel of the ms. Trade offs. Hope you get your car sorted to your satisfaction. Best, Paul

 

My first suggestion was to genuinely try to help the OP fix his stock power steering system.

At the risk of this becoming a "what steering system should the OP use" free-for-all thread, I'll add this.

I had nothing but problems with the stock power steering system. It was an add-on over a (working) manual steering system, on a chassis design that is about to be 60 years old. There are some who use it, and it works well for them. @gkull does high-speed events with his (and even uses the outer, nearly 20:1 ratio holes). But I didn't like replacing parts with shoddy reproduction parts, and I certainly didn't like doing it several times. The Borgeson is GREAT in my wife's car, and made it driveable for her. The manual steering in my 80 is great for me. I just have to back into parking spots, and make sure the wheels are turning before I turn the steering wheel.

I didn't like the rack and pinion options as I didn't want to add additional U-joints in my steering linkage. I also (correctly) predicted LS swaps in my future, and didn't want to have to fight the linkage again. I do like electric assist, though, and my daily driver has it. I think @Richard454 has an electric assist system in his car. In fact, since the engine is out of the 79 right now, I only have one vehicle with a working power steering pump at all, my old truck. Knock on wood.

 

I went the other direction to recently add P/S to my factory manual steering car. For you, going to manual would be pretty easy and not to expensive. After removing the pump, pump brackets and hoses you would want to remove the P/S cylinder from the frame on the left side. You can remove the frame bracket and let the cylinder hang. The relay rod can be removed with the cylinder, valve and tie rods with tubes attached if you want. Since the tie rods use the inner holes of the knuckles for P/S and outer holes for manual steering, remove them from the knuckles leaving them attached to the relay rod. At this point you have the relay rod with valve attached, cylinder attached, but removed from frame and idler arms attached, but removed from knuckles. So, you can leave all those items attached and remove them from the relay rod on your bench later.
Now, remove the idler arm from the relay rod and the P/S valve from the pitman arm and it's all out.
The manual steering pitman arm is slightly different from the P/S one, but from everything I read you can leave your pitman arm and not have any problem. It would be your option. I did change the pitman arm on my conversion.
Other manual parts needed are a manual relay rod and a drag link to replace the P/S valve. You can reuse your tie rods with tubes and the idler arm is the same. The tie rods will need adjustment since you are going to the outer holes on the knuckles and the relay rod is different You can do that yourself by centering your steering wheel and doing the front wheel alignment.
Installing the tie rods into the correct holes on the knuckles is important. Having manual steering with tie rods in the inner knuckle holes makes steering a whole lot harder

 

Well now I am wondering if I should keep the PS... want to feel the road but also don't want to have to strong arm it every time I park or slow turn. Already have a manual non-hydraulic clutch and I'm not getting any younger

 

Put some fluid in it and see if it works. If it does, keep it.

 

Your certainly not out much to give it a try.

 

klodholz,

Your first priority for a manual conversion would be to crawl under and see if the steering knuckle even has two holes drilled in it. One hole for manual, one for PS tie rods.
Not sure when GM quit doing that.

You can always get another pump and keep the old one for a rebuild someday. They have kits just for that.
If you do opt for a new pump, make sure it has the shorter fill neck. It has to clear the ALT.

 

A 1971 Corvette had 2 hole steering knuckles for standard or power assist steering. I explained about using the correct hole for standard steering. In 1977 power assist steering became standard and one hole knuckles likely were used from then to 1982.