E-fan sans fan shroud.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2017
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From: Virginia
- No spinning wheel of death under the hood when you are trying to tune something.
- To get the shroud out, without cutting, you must remove the hood and the radiator (at least in my experience, twice). Why put it back?
- Lots more room under the hood, for things like a spreader bar, or to replace a harmonic balancer without removing anything else (ask me how I know!)
- A clutch fan is weakest at idle in traffic, when you need it the most. An electric fan is strongest at those times that you need it.
- For looks
Race Director
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From: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
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The above list is pretty good. I'll add to it. Much easier to work on the car. Just changing V belts or adjusting them is easier, changing or adjusting the upper control arms is by far easier.
Yes I run a spreader bar. Terrific addition.
My electric fans almost never run on the highway. This does make a difference. 5 HP? I'm thinking more like 20. Everything adds up.
Yes I run a spreader bar. Terrific addition.
My electric fans almost never run on the highway. This does make a difference. 5 HP? I'm thinking more like 20. Everything adds up.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 11,960
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From: Virginia
I think it would be 20 hp vs. a fixed fan (no clutch). A properly working clutch fan is likely less drag than that. But I know when my electric fans work. Do you know when your fan clutch is working properly?
Even if it were zero hp different, the other positives far outweigh the cost. The only reason not to do it is if you don't want to upgrade your alternator and charging circuit. IMHO
Even if it were zero hp different, the other positives far outweigh the cost. The only reason not to do it is if you don't want to upgrade your alternator and charging circuit. IMHO
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 2,365
Likes: 519
Here's my short list:
- No spinning wheel of death under the hood when you are trying to tune something.
- To get the shroud out, without cutting, you must remove the hood and the radiator (at least in my experience, twice). Why put it back?
- Lots more room under the hood, for things like a spreader bar, or to replace a harmonic balancer without removing anything else (ask me how I know!)
- A clutch fan is weakest at idle in traffic, when you need it the most. An electric fan is strongest at those times that you need it.
- For looks
Intuitively that was also my reasoning. I really hated the OEM shroud and did not like tuning around Dr. No’s favorite way of disposing of British spies.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 13,282
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From: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
2025 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
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Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,036
Likes: 1,121
From: North tonawanda NY
Yep. BE is Belgium. And yes. It rarely gets that hot here. Comparable to Seattle.
The Black Magic fine works well but interferes with a few things. I had to notch and duct tape it. Ugly.
My preference would be just a fan. A single 16 inch fan. It seems like I might be able to get away with that. And if that doesn’t work… a pancake shroud with flaps.
I’ll set up an idiot audio alert so I’m not terrified of missing a high gauge reading. The sniper should work just fine for that.
The Black Magic fine works well but interferes with a few things. I had to notch and duct tape it. Ugly.
My preference would be just a fan. A single 16 inch fan. It seems like I might be able to get away with that. And if that doesn’t work… a pancake shroud with flaps.
I’ll set up an idiot audio alert so I’m not terrified of missing a high gauge reading. The sniper should work just fine for that.
Im happy with my ebay clones.. allowed me to easily fit my spreader bar/brace and it will make swapping my tubular a arms way easier.
Upper and lower hoses are stainless they do help with cooling. and I have a 3 row champion bought on ebay for under $200 shipped in 2012... I only bought once and never even had to cry.
Last edited by augiedoggy; Feb 18, 2024 at 09:17 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,036
Likes: 1,121
From: North tonawanda NY
I did it on my car AFTER replacing everthing first including the clutch Rad, waterpump and hoses and multiple thermostates only to still have my temps creep over 205-210 degrees every time I was creeping in traffic... I didnt care for the temp swings since I was running a 180 degree thermostat My car never goes over 190 now and even thats rare
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,384
Likes: 385
From: Leland , North Carolina
depending on the setup in the car a clutch fans have been show on the dyno to cost up to 14hp though typically more often around 7hp.... By comparision an edelbrock aluminum intake will typically net about a 7hp gain over the stock GM intake on our cars. Most seem to feel its worth doing that so.
I did it on my car AFTER replacing everthing first including the clutch Rad, waterpump and hoses and multiple thermostates only to still have my temps creep over 205-210 degrees every time I was creeping in traffic... I didnt care for the temp swings since I was running a 180 degree thermostat My car never goes over 190 now and even thats rare
I did it on my car AFTER replacing everthing first including the clutch Rad, waterpump and hoses and multiple thermostates only to still have my temps creep over 205-210 degrees every time I was creeping in traffic... I didnt care for the temp swings since I was running a 180 degree thermostat My car never goes over 190 now and even thats rare
In my current L82 this car barely hits 180 anytime of year with the stock fan setup. It has an aluminum Champion Rad.previous owner installed. I guess it's second nature for me to remove hood, evacuate and slide out Rad after removing bolts. There is also a secondary electric fan that kicks on but I've never seen it come on
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
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From: North tonawanda NY
And it actually works with the vents in my high rise hood. I have multiple temp thermistors taking real time readings under my hood and the air cleaner pulls in ambient outside temps while the car is moving.
Last edited by augiedoggy; Feb 19, 2024 at 10:07 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,036
Likes: 1,121
From: North tonawanda NY
I had a 406 built with a tuned port SuperRam intake in an 81 many years ago. Never ran over 190 idling in summer. I decided to go electric and waste probably 1K on that just to have the relay fail which I know was a fluke but sucked driving home almost overheating in traffic. I couldn't tell any difference in driving performance between the two.
In my current L82 this car barely hits 180 anytime of year with the stock fan setup. It has an aluminum Champion Rad.previous owner installed. I guess it's second nature for me to remove hood, evacuate and slide out Rad after removing bolts. There is also a secondary electric fan that kicks on but I've never seen it come on
In my current L82 this car barely hits 180 anytime of year with the stock fan setup. It has an aluminum Champion Rad.previous owner installed. I guess it's second nature for me to remove hood, evacuate and slide out Rad after removing bolts. There is also a secondary electric fan that kicks on but I've never seen it come on
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
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Big block can be fitted with a spreader bar. Custom one with a dog leg bend in it. Heaps more fun to adjust than a straight one. But still well worth the effort.
As per off the shelf. No aware of one.
If it was easy, everyone would do it!
If you have a big block, seriously, you don't really expect easy do you?
As per off the shelf. No aware of one.
If it was easy, everyone would do it!
If you have a big block, seriously, you don't really expect easy do you?
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,528
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From: East London/SW Essex UK
Perhaps someone can 'enlighten' me relating to stock fan shrouds etc. My modified '68 BB runs OK with DeWitts radiator, stock shroud fully sealed around radiator......mostly OK temperature wise in all weather/traffic conditions except really hot days and getting caught-up in heavy/stationary traffic (as we frequently do in London and its outskirts) - I have the stock 7 blade fan and a recently replace viscous unit....it works well. I also have (unusually) an adjustable thermostat which helps to balance-up water flow/temperature. My car doesn't have A/C My question is - the shroud 'extensions' that were fiited to A/C equipped cars - do they make a real difference to cooling? - do you need to use the 9 bladed A/C spec fan to maximise any improvement in colling? (or will stock 7 blade be OK).
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,036
Likes: 1,121
From: North tonawanda NY
Perhaps someone can 'enlighten' me relating to stock fan shrouds etc. My modified '68 BB runs OK with DeWitts radiator, stock shroud fully sealed around radiator......mostly OK temperature wise in all weather/traffic conditions except really hot days and getting caught-up in heavy/stationary traffic (as we frequently do in London and its outskirts) - I have the stock 7 blade fan and a recently replace viscous unit....it works well. I also have (unusually) an adjustable thermostat which helps to balance-up water flow/temperature. My car doesn't have A/C My question is - the shroud 'extensions' that were fiited to A/C equipped cars - do they make a real difference to cooling? - do you need to use the 9 bladed A/C spec fan to maximise any improvement in colling? (or will stock 7 blade be OK).
I should also mention some electric setups like the dual spal 11" and clone use rubber flaps on the shroud which suck closed while in traffic to provide a better pulling effect through the Rad while blowing open while the car is moving as speed to allow more air to flow without the shroud becoming a bottleneck or "cork".
Last edited by augiedoggy; Feb 20, 2024 at 08:22 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 878
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From: Deep South Denmark
Perhaps someone can 'enlighten' me relating to stock fan shrouds etc. My modified '68 BB runs OK with DeWitts radiator, stock shroud fully sealed around radiator......mostly OK temperature wise in all weather/traffic conditions except really hot days and getting caught-up in heavy/stationary traffic (as we frequently do in London and its outskirts) - I have the stock 7 blade fan and a recently replace viscous unit....it works well. I also have (unusually) an adjustable thermostat which helps to balance-up water flow/temperature. My car doesn't have A/C My question is - the shroud 'extensions' that were fiited to A/C equipped cars - do they make a real difference to cooling? - do you need to use the 9 bladed A/C spec fan to maximise any improvement in colling? (or will stock 7 blade be OK).
Non-AC had 5 blades
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2022
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From: Wisconsin
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,384
Likes: 385
From: Leland , North Carolina
Big block can be fitted with a spreader bar. Custom one with a dog leg bend in it. Heaps more fun to adjust than a straight one. But still well worth the effort.
As per off the shelf. No aware of one.
If it was easy, everyone would do it!
If you have a big block, seriously, you don't really expect easy do you?
As per off the shelf. No aware of one.
If it was easy, everyone would do it!
If you have a big block, seriously, you don't really expect easy do you?