too many front A arm shims
Is this normal?
Is it safe?
What can I do to tidy this up?
:skep:
Can I assume that it didn't come from factory like that (with all of those shims)?
[Modified by ricketyray, 8:03 PM 1/27/2003]
As for having only a few thread past the nut is fine. Weather you have 1 thread or 100 past the nut makes not difference to the holding power of the nut.
:cheers:
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I'm not sure what happens when shims loosen or drop, but I assume it isn't good. I just figure the more you got, the more potential points of failure...?
:crazy:
Where are folks dialing in there caster and camber; and what kind of results, i.e.; tire wear, turn in, top speed/acceleration, etc...
:confused:
Bolts/nuts part#572043 from Corvette Central,Have a look at your Vette Brakes/Products catalog for desirable other parts and #s.its worth spending a few more dollars whilst your tearing down/ upgrading you will be amazed at the difference it makes BUT take care compressing coil springs,use correct tool. Lastly yu,ve checked the A-arms /Frame has not suffered a hit and is bent??
I doubt Quality Control would have passed a stack that thick when checked.
Good Luck and watch them springs
Sarasota Sam :cheers: :iagree:
Thank you for your responses to RicketyRay. My 1974 has about seven shims on the right rear bolt and none on the right front while there is one each on the left bolts. Seems a common alignment set up. I guess I'll have to check out the bushes, now. And I thought I'd done all of the hard and dirty work :banghead: BTW, are any of you guys going to the Birthday Party in June? A bunch of Aussies is organising a tour to Kentucky departing the east coast on June 19 and linking up with the California Caravan on their departure a few days later. I'm hoping to find the money to join them and see some of you guys in the flesh ( well, some of it anyway! ) .
:party: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Regards from Down Under
aussiejohn





New Moog ball joints make a world of difference if yours are over 10 years old.
this was the recomendation for the C4;
Daily driver:
Front: Toe-in 1/32 inch
Camber 0 degrees negative
Caster 5-7 degrees positive
Rear: Toe-in 1/8-inch
Camber 0 degrees negative
Advanced Street:
Front: Toe 0”
Camber .25 degrees negative
Caster 5-7 degrees. pos.
Rear: Toe-in 1/8 inch
Camber .50 degrees negative
Autocross:
Front: Toe-out 3/16 inch
Camber 2-1.5 degrees negative
Caster 4-5 degrees positive
Rear: Toe-in 1/16-inch
Camber .75-1.5 degrees negative
Track:
Front: Toe-out 0”-1/16”
Camber 2-1 degrees negative
Caster ???? (probably 5 or more pos. if you can get it)
Rear: Toe-in 1/8”
Camber .75-1.5 degrees negative
:steering:
[Modified by ricketyray, 4:16 PM 1/28/2003]
[Modified by ricketyray, 4:20 PM 1/28/2003]





I normally run Zero toe front and rear and .60 neg front camber and .50 or less neg rear depending on what I'm doing.
Zero toe helps your car go where you point it. I wouldn't have it any other way. I've put on over 100,000 miles with those type settings
The major draw back to high speeds in my Vette or for that matter most any car is too quick of steering ratio. It's very difficult to maintain a straght line on a low adheasion surface at over 175 mph.
to tell you the truth. I don't feel safe in a stock C-3 corvette. They are not a touring car at all. I'll take part of that back. When our Vette's were brand new with the upgrade performance suspension package they were probably on the top of all American cars in the handling department. I thought that my 78 & 79 were real corner carvers. Just lacking power. But as the years go by they just get more and more slop.
I'm beting if you did the hwy 318 (or hwy 278?) challenge event :D you know a little something about the handling characteristics C3's when pushed hard. :yesnod:











