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I built and installed a 650HP gen 1 427 SBC in my 73. I've spent 5 grand upgrading everything from the tranny to the spindles with chromoly and 4130 components. I'm left with one cast iron piece, the flange on the outer end of the half shaft. The car will see weekend bracket racing using 28-10.50 DOT tires. I can't find a 4130 flange. Tom's used to sell them, but no longer. Does anyone else make them? Are they even required for this situation?
I built and installed a 650HP gen 1 427 SBC in my 73. I've spent 5 grand upgrading everything from the tranny to the spindles with chromoly and 4130 components. I'm left with one cast iron piece, the flange on the outer end of the half shaft. The car will see weekend bracket racing using 28-10.50 DOT tires. I can't find a 4130 flange. Tom's used to sell them, but no longer. Does anyone else make them? Are they even required for this situation?
By the time most tracks would require that flange to be changed, you would also need a roll cage. I think you're perfectly OK with what you've got.
Passing tech isn't my main issue. The car will spend 99% of the time as a street rod. If I decide to add some N2O, I'll be at 800HP and 750# TQ and that half shaft flange looks to me like it will be the weak link in the chain.. I simply don't know if that cast iron piece can hold up. I've seen what happens when the outer end of that shaft breaks loose! I know that if you race, you will break something sooner or later. I'm just trying to make it later than sooner.
What are you running for a diff?
Were you looking for Tom's billet 1350 drive flanges? I have not seen those in decades. You might break the joint before you break the flange. Of course, if you have a 10 bolt than you may be looking at other concerns once you apply your power.
Passing tech isn't my main issue. The car will spend 99% of the time as a street rod. If I decide to add some N2O, I'll be at 800HP and 750# TQ and that half shaft flange looks to me like it will be the weak link in the chain.. I simply don't know if that cast iron piece can hold up. I've seen what happens when the outer end of that shaft breaks loose! I know that if you race, you will break something sooner or later. I'm just trying to make it later than sooner.
The diff. is the corvette IRS. w/3.70 gears. Fed by 3" MW driveshaft w/ forged ends. Diff. has 4130 stub shafts, new posi with 400# springs and carbon fiber clutches from Duntov. 3" MW half shafts. Global West tubular trailing arms w/spherical bearings and 4130 spindles set to .0015 endplay.
I can't say anything about those pieces in specific, but a lot of driveline parts that look like cast iron are actually cast steel. Nothing like 4130 or 4340, but much more tough than cast iron.
The diff. is the corvette IRS. w/3.70 gears. Fed by 3" MW driveshaft w/ forged ends. Diff. has 4130 stub shafts, new posi with 400# springs and carbon fiber clutches from Duntov. 3" MW half shafts. Global West tubular trailing arms w/spherical bearings and 4130 spindles set to .0015 endplay.
I know you were looking for the old billet shaft flanges for the weak link, but I would be more concerned with a 10-bolt case. That would be one of my first concerns. Carbon fiber clutches would not be my choice as you may find out. Was the posi an out of the box Eaton or Yukon? any type of prep done to it, such as polishing or cryo? Since it has the spring pack then it's not tuned.
MW 1/2 shafts are 3" x 083", the 1350 Spicer would be the weaker link.
Whose outer axles are you running- 17 or 31 spline.
Big thanks to GTR1999! To answer his questions, the posi was from Duntov. The local guy that set it up said it was a Yukon. He and his father have done work like this for 40 years and are very well spoken of. He told me that he set the posi up (shimmed) to be where it should be. What he told me sounded just like what Tom's showed in his videos. The spindles are from Duntov and are 17 spline. I'm unaware of the carbon fiber issue you spoke of. Never ran them before, thought it would be a nice upgrade.
The diff. is what it is. It has to be stronger than it was. My concern about the half shaft flange seems to be answered. It sounds like it will not be the weakest link and I can run them instead of searching for forged ones.
The stock outers and inner yokes are a weak like. I was running 10 inch Goodyear slicks and years of bracket racing. The outer axles never snapped , but it scared me when I saw that they had actually rotated a whole spines width. Back then I just bought Tom's outers.
IMO instead of a heavy Vette. Buy dragster or some light drag car. I had a port injected two stage intake for SBC. I ran a 125 N2O shot in 1 gear and an additional 250 shot in second and third. EVen stripped down to 3000 lbs with a full cage the power to weight ratio is bad. The weight x-fer of a street vehicle is compromised. You have to mod so many things. Run SFI everything clear down to the drine line safety hoop.
Big thanks to GTR1999! To answer his questions, the posi was from Duntov. The local guy that set it up said it was a Yukon. He and his father have done work like this for 40 years and are very well spoken of. He told me that he set the posi up (shimmed) to be where it should be. What he told me sounded just like what Tom's showed in his videos. The spindles are from Duntov and are 17 spline. I'm unaware of the carbon fiber issue you spoke of. Never ran them before, thought it would be a nice upgrade.
The diff. is what it is. It has to be stronger than it was. My concern about the half shaft flange seems to be answered. It sounds like it will not be the weakest link and I can run them instead of searching for forged ones.
There is a lot I can say but will just say good luck, I hope it works out for you. Unfortunately, it would have been better if you had asked prior to buying anything.